Results 1 to 10 of 11
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01-01-2016, 07:16 PM #1
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Northern California
- Posts
- 22
Thanked: 3How fine a grit is my eschter stone
I picked an eschter finishing some from the market place here and not that it matters the exact grit, just want to have a bit more knowledge so I can determine how much time I need to spend with my blades on this stone.
Is there a role of thumb that you use on how many passes on a high grit finisher?
Cheers,
Eric
Child of God, Husband, Father, Son
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01-01-2016, 08:19 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Posts
- 789
Thanked: 98Well sir, the escher's are said to be in the 12000 grit range. Welcome to SRP.
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01-01-2016, 09:14 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 2,944
Thanked: 433They are roughly 10k-14k and they are all slightly different. For laps I would start with 40-50 then assess the edge and do more if needed. Use very little pressure.
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01-01-2016, 09:19 PM #4
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Northern California
- Posts
- 22
Thanked: 3I think the first few times I've used it, I didn't give it enough time. Maybe 20 at most. New to honing but I have a hairless arm from working at it. Also, I've noticed that wedges take alot more time on the stone to get the edge. Can someone confirm my experience?
Thanks
EricChild of God, Husband, Father, Son
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01-01-2016, 09:27 PM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 2,944
Thanked: 433Wedges take more time on all stones but by the the time you get to the Escher it shouldn't be that much more
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01-01-2016, 09:28 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215Are you talking touchup or finish off an 8K?
Is it a Labeled stone?
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01-01-2016, 09:44 PM #7
Grit 'guestimations' for any natural stone are really not relevant. If you really want to learn your stone, get a good and true bevel set on a 1K and then go directly to the Escher with slurry until you can gradually dilute to finish on water only. This will give you a relevant idea on the quality of the stone to put a finished edge on a blade.
JMHO....Lupus Cohors - Appellant Mors !
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01-01-2016, 09:58 PM #8
Hi Eric, one thing I learned along the way was to do the grunt work with the 1k through 8k-10k and only when the razor is shave ready at that level go to high grit finishers.
I think the eschers I've got, and the ones I've had come and go, have been the equivalent in feel to a Naniwa 12k superstone edge. There is a tendency to go to the finisher before the razor is really ready, and then waste time, and more importantly expensive stone.
If you can get a DFS (damn fine shave) off the razor at 8k, 10 or 12k, go to your escher and see how much improvement you get. I know real good honers who have told me 8 to 10 round trips on an escher is all they need, but I've always done 20 to 30. After all ......... ain't more always better ? ........Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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01-03-2016, 04:30 PM #9
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Northern California
- Posts
- 22
Thanked: 3I think I'm going to spend some now time working my duck wedge at 4k/8k before putting it to the eschter as I watch the Raiders win the final game of the season today.
Child of God, Husband, Father, Son
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01-03-2016, 04:49 PM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215Yes, like Mike said, learn your stone… all naturals are different. How many laps you need, depends on the condition of the edge and the fineness and or cutting ability of your finish stone.
I get the best edges after a good 8 or 12k edge.
Also keep your stones clean and free of grit from lower grit stones. When finishing or moving up, just one piece of grit can defeat your progress. Also wash your hands and slurry stones, it is that important.