Thread: Arkansas bliss

I've been keeping an eye out for a suitable piece of Jasper to play with but haven't had any luck. Where were you able to find a slab suitable for our purposes? Seems like most of the ones I run across are smaller than I'd like, or just too rough at the edge.

Originally Posted by DaveW

Arks are different, you don't have to do gentle laps only, even with the finisher. If it's settled in, you can swish the razor back and forth on the stone with moderate pressure (just not enough to flex the razor, that would be pointless) and then end with progressively lighter strokes.

When I prepare a (new to me and long out of service) razor only with arkansas stones, it takes about 15 minutes from a bevel reset to a shave ready razor, but a lot of the work is done with some pressure until the very final strokes. It is a gentle abrasive once broken in, and as long as there is no floating particles on the stone. The stone itself is gentle.

The broken in jasper is even slower, and you can just swash a razor back and forth on it for a couple of minutes to get a final burnish. It won't create any semblance of a wire edge.

+1. This is what I have found with over two hundred razors now done on an Arkansas progression. They are different then a synthetic or a coticule even. They can be used in so many different ways but what you have said about pressure is something I have heard consistently from others who have put their time in on Arkansas stones. I have proved this myself now too. The way I have found to use them is consistent and doesn't take hours or thousands of laps. It may not be for everyone but it is definitely for me.

Or add a layer of tape and set a quick micro bevel after a good 12k edge.

A micro bevel just takes a few minutes on a well prepared stone and the edge is the same as a fully ark bevel finished edge.

Originally Posted by MichaelS

My only Ark is the black one from Dictum and I'm extremely happy with it. Like they said, burnishing changed it from flop to top!

That's good to hear, I ended up ordering a Dan's, but I'll keep it in mind.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Or add a layer of tape and set a quick micro bevel after a good 12k edge.

A micro bevel just takes a few minutes on a well prepared stone and the edge is the same as a fully ark bevel finished edge.

Hmm...interesting idea there. But if you've already honed to a 12K edge and just want to scuff it to whatever level the Arkansas performs to, wouldn't you get about the same end result without the tape? I can't imagine it would take long to polish a razor from 12K to whatever finisher you want, even if it's something slow like a translucent Arkansas. Am I wrong in that assumption?

Finally got my SB from Dan's and started burnishing it : )

I was wondering which kinds of oil you guys prefer and why?

regards

Originally Posted by AnsichtskarteausSolingen

Finally got my SB from Dan's and started burnishing it : )

I was wondering which kinds of oil you guys prefer and why?

regards

WD 40 (or some kind of thin water displacer) if the stone is cutting really finely. Light mineral oil if you want a little bit more cushion and separation to slow the stone down. (light mineral oil is the same thing as norton puts in a can, but it costs more if it says norton on it).

Thin synthetic motor oil (cringe if you want, it just needs to be unused so that it's not oxidized) is also a reasonable choice if mineral oil is hard to find for a decent price.

Old timers used kerosene or mineral spirits sometimes. If you're concerned about health, read an MSDS on each thing.

“ I can't imagine it would take long to polish a razor from 12K to whatever finisher you want, even if it's something slow like a translucent Arkansas. Am I wrong in that assumption?”

If your goal is to polish the edge, what benefit is there in finishing the whole bevel?

A lot about finishing with Arks can be learned, by using them. Try it… then decide?

Most any oil will works, for years I used Kerosene, and WD40 but now use Smith’s and water, just 2-3 drops on a wet stone. WD40 will melt the glue on your tape.

On a clean stone, when done, just wash with Simple Green and Dawn dish soap to remove any oil before it get deep into the stone. Rancid oil smells, Smith’s rinses off with a squirt of water.

As a guy who likes the process of honing a blade, my Ark's are great. You just can't over-hone on one. At least I seemingly can't.

Just be careful, after playing for an eternity on your black, it's hard not to give your blade too much when you get back onto synthetics lol.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Most any oil will works, for years I used Kerosene, and WD40 but now use Smith’s and water, just 2-3 drops on a wet stone. WD40 will melt the glue on your tape.

On a clean stone, when done, just wash with Simple Green and Dawn dish soap to remove any oil before it get deep into the stone. Rancid oil smells, Smith’s rinses off with a squirt of water.

I like Smith's honing oil since it rinses off so easily. Glycerin is another water soluble that works well and is easy to wipe/wash off but it is thicker than smiths which is beneficial some times and other times it is not.