Thread: Chosera vs SuperStone progression.

Super stones are resin bonded.
Chosera are magnesia bonded.

Ceramic bonded just means the bonding is either fired or chemically altered clay type bonding. Firing isn't just drying it vitrifies the clay.

Most ceramics are fired, chemically altered clay type binder is also possible producing an un-vitrified clay type perhaps includes a secondary binder like a resin. It could be a different base clay binder to standard that takes a higher fire temp and vitrifies more. Making a harder glassier type stone with less voids. Going on the description of the users the snow white gets reviewed as harder than normal. I can't comment as I don't own one to compare.


Did a little edit as what I originally wrote was about a clear as mud!

Going from the Norton 4/8k to the Super Stones, I doubt you will be happy and certainly not see edge improvement. I have several progressions of synthetic stones and the Norton’s are hard to beat. The 4/8k was my go to for a lot of years.

The Old 8k snow white is the one to get, not the new one, if you really want the good 8k, but really it does not matter, it is quick and leaves a nice finish, but if you are going to a 12k super stone you end up with a 12k Super Stone edge…

Your Chosera 1k, Norton 4/8k and 12k Super Stone is a bullet proof progression. You can spend more money, but really, there will be no difference in the shaving edge performance.

I too, vote for spending your money, on the GS20K and keeping your current progression. Now, that… will make a difference on your edges.

Any of the other progressions may feel different, but the edge will be the same.

Yea, Tools from Japan, Ken Schwartz was carrying them, last year, but I do not see them on the CKTG site, you might email him.

Originally Posted by Iceni

Super stones are resin bonded.
Chosera are magnesia bonded.

Ceramic bonded just means the bonding is either fired or chemically altered clay type bonding. Firing isn't just drying it vitrifies the clay.

Most ceramics are fired, so there is a good chance this is a chemically altered clay type binder so possibly an un-vitrified clay type.

Thanks. I prefer hard stones that don't wear as bad, and this had me wondering if maybe I shouldn't have picked these up rather than the Norton 4k and 8k that I picked up to replace my worn out combination hone.

Well, Euclid makes a strong argument against that. Considering most everyone progresses past the 8k phase, how you got there is of little consequence. The keys are bevel setter first, finisher second, and third would be the hones between.

The 20K is also available from here (Suehiro : Japan-Tool Online Shopping Cart) (along with some very nice<script id="gpt-impl-0.2078637399844156" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_86.js"></script> Jnats and the “snow white” and here (Stones - Synthetics - Suehiro - Knives and Stones)

@marshal:

There is a review of the fuji and hayabusa here (???? Shiage Toishi | TomoNagura.Com | Keith V. Johnson) and here (Nakato | TomoNagura.Com | Keith V. Johnson) and more from the same author here (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...-New-4k-amp-8k)

Got lost in all the "this, no that, no I got these" but,,,,, it sounds like Euclid has the best advice for you. You got everything up to 12k and I would say you just need something to calm that edge down a little. Won't say what I use after my nani and add to the HAD but I do know the Nani 12k edge very well and I like to take a little harsh out of it :<0)

I am very content with the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k. Mine came via Tools From Japan and might be the most sound hone investment I've yet made.

Thank you all for the advice, the over all opinion was the same and it defiantly cures my HAD so order has been placed Tools from Japan Suehiro Gokumyo 20k it is.

Went ahead and upgraded to EMS mail, so hopefully in a week or so I will have it.

I will be getting a Chosera 5000 at some point, I love the rubbery feel of the 1k, and really want to try the 5

Haha im glad you made the decision to expand your honing range as opposed to replacing stones. The next time you hone a razor considering all goes well, I think youll have a smile on your face after the shave test.

Originally Posted by sidmind

so hopefully in a week or so I will have it.

It will take a little longer then that. Stuart at TFJ may take a week or more just to process your order (which is clearly outlined on the website and through the ordering process).

My last two orders took a week and then 10 days to process, no problems though as he is up front about it and delayed gratification can be good for the soul in a fast paced world.

So just for clarification for those in the same boat and looking to make a change in stone progression, unless you are doing a lot of honing and are looking for speed and performance, it really does not matter, all that much.

A fast stone is not for everyone, a 1k Diamond plate is fast... All 1k stones will leave a 1k edge in capable hands, and there is not much difference in the edge, between a King, Norton, Chosera, Super Stone, Shapton, and Nubatama 1k. All will easily set a bevel, some faster, some “feel” smoother, but all will work, and are at all ranges of the price spectrum.

Everything in between from 2-8k does not matter as long as the grit jump is fairly close in the progression, if you are finishing on a 12k Super Stone, you will have a 12k Super Stone edge.

In the middle grits, you are just refining the bevels and straightening the edge, (removing the previous grits stria).

A good 8k, stropped on Chrome Oxide will produce a very keen and smooth shaving edge rivaling a GS20, in capable hands.

The only stone that can make a big difference is the transition stone, the stone after the bevel setter that removes the deep bevel setting stria. For most of us that is a 4k, but a good 2k, can make that process faster and much easier, the job can still be accomplished on a 4 or 5k, with more laps and patients, but for new honers, that can be an issue. And if you are just honing a handful of razors, just do the laps.

It is interesting how in a few short years, we have gone from an accepted 8k finisher to 12k and now the 20k GS at .50um. But then on the other hand .50um, Chrome Oxide has been the go to edge… for hundreds of years.

The bottom line is learn the stones you have, squeak out the best performance from each stone, finish at the highest grit stone you have and strop on paste or just leather to refine the edge for comfort.