Thread: New Toys: Naniwa 12k & DMT 325 Help

Hey! I hope everyone is enjoying their Fourth of July Weekend! I have been doing some research on how to properly refresh my razor and I just purchased the Naniwa 12k stone with the DMT 325. I was just wondering if you could spread some wisdom over how to properly care for the stones? I have not been able to find a video to show me how to use the DMT on the Naniwa yet. Do you have any references or can please explain how to properly use this stone? What other maintance do I need for my Naniwa? How do you let your stone dry out? Thank you so much for the advice!

I highly reccomend Lynn Abrams' video on lapping hones.
https://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=

Thank you, I will watch this. I had been searching for a video like this on YouTube but I couldn't find one. I really enjoyed his DVD but it just glanced on the flattening stone. Thank you again.

That was a great video. Thank you for sending it. How do you recommend storing the stones? Do you let them dry out a certain way? Thanks again.

I pat the Naniwa with a paper towel then let it air dry.

You purchased a nice stone!

Enjoy!

Much has been written on this forum on the care and feeding of the DMT 325 and the Naniwa 12K.
Here's a quick summary:

1) Both the DMT 325 and the 12k stone need to be broken in prior to first use. The "high spots" on
the DMT 325 need to be smoothed by running the back of a knife blade, or a screwdriver shaft, or
similar straight-edged metal object, over the entire surface. Do this before attempting to lap the
12k, or you might end up with some noticeable scratches on the stone surface.

2) The 12k stone will need to be lapped and the edges chamfered. Drawing a pencil grid on the stone
is helpful, then lap until all the pencil lines disappear. Then lightly chamfer the edges.

3) Don't soak the Naniwa 12k prior to use. Either lap it briefly under running water, or simply spray
some water on the surface until the water stops pooling. Whichever method you choose, treat the
stone the same way each time you use it. Periodically re-lapping the stone doesn't hurt, but it
shouldn't take much once it is broken in.

4) Briefly lap the stone after each use, and before putting it away.

5) Rinse the stone and let it air dry on a flat surface.

6) Make sure that the stone is completely dry before storing it, and then store it flat.

The DMT 325 and the Naniwa 12k stone may be all you will ever need to maintain an undamaged razor
with a proper bevel. At some point, with normal use, the bevel may need to be re-set, but not that
often.

That's a good combo you have there. I've used them myself for several years now. I've tried other
finishing stones, but IMHO, the Naniwa 12k is my gold standard.

Good luck!

I've read a lot about what to do and not to do with the DMT 325. When i first got mine i lapped a fairly large chip out of a Swaty hone. They arre pretty hard. I wouldn't recomend it but it didn't hurt my DMT. I thought it was ruined and then found out all it needed was a good cleaning.

Thank you so much for all of the replies. I just got my shipment today! Very excited to try them out. The 12k is very smooth and nice. I am hoping I did my best to remove any irregularities in the DMT. I guess the grid pattern will show me. Thank you again.

Yes, you do need to break in a diamond plate to remove or check for any high grits, diamond clumping. Sharpening a knife or wide plane blade will do it, make sure to rub some hard steel along the corners of the edges.

You only need to grid lap your new stone flat, when you first receive it.

All synthetic stones will move in the drying and wetting process, so make sure you stone, is well wet or at least a 5 min soak before grid lapping and lap under water or running water, more to protect you diamond plate.

Because they all move and more importantly because the absolute flatness is not critical to performance, (the razor will just ride on the high spots), it is more important that the stone face be smooth and the edges chamfered or rounded.

I have found it really does not matter how you store your stone, flat sideways or on end, but that you let them air dry naturally and slowly. Some synthetic stones can crack, and I believe that can be caused by forcing the stone to dry quickly, wicking on towels or in the sun.

I store my stones on the side, after washing up with a scotch brite sponge and running water, it is useless to lap flat before drying and putting away, because the next time you use them they will have moved during drying, the scotch brite will remove any swarf on the stone face.

I have never re-grid lapped my stones other than for demonstration, but often quick lap them, before use, after hydrating, between uses and to remove swarf, during extended honing sessions. All Super Stones have a tendency to load up easily.

You will need to lap all synthetics after drying and re hydrating, not so much because of warpage, but that they do develop a “skin” (slight discoloration) that does affect cutting performance. It is not critical that they be re-lapped, but it helps. All you need is a few quick laps.

The 12k Super Stone is the current Gold Standard for synthetic stone honing, there are other equal or better but it is an easy to use stone that can be very aggressive, even bevel setting and as a finisher that produces a fine shaving edge.

If you see any scratches on the stone surface, you probably have high grit on the diamond plate that will need flattening.