Results 11 to 16 of 16
-
08-11-2016, 05:06 PM #11
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Location
- Virginia, USA
- Posts
- 2,224
Thanked: 481Yep, I was one of those people. I thought the only difference between a sharp knife and a shaving razor was the finishing stone. I Dont think i couldve been more wrong.
A knife just has to be "good enough." A razor has to be perfect, or damn close to. It doesn't take much of an imperfecton to make it tug and pull. Micro chips, itty bitty dings, the bevel just being a few microns from meeting, foiled edges, things you really need a micro scope or jewelers loupe to see, and a light touch to avoid creating by accident.
Similar in theory, but in practice there's a world of difference.
-
08-12-2016, 12:47 PM #12
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- UK
- Posts
- 3
Thanked: 0Thanks, I have checked a few videos out that people have recommended and my technique for razors was well off, I aim to give it another go this weekend. I was originally not sitting the razor flat which was probably my issue.
Starting on the 1200 (ice bear), then the 6k King with a slurry stone and I have a 10k stone arriving today to finish it, I already own a decent stop, see below pictures of the razor, note the few small rust/blemish marks, this is a brand new razor so must have been on the shelf for some time.
See here (excuse the dogs).
-
08-12-2016, 01:02 PM #13
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
- Posts
- 17,294
Thanked: 3224I kind of thought you might be honing with the spine off the hone coming from sharpening knives. Watch your pressure on the blade when honing too. With too much pressure the blade will flex lifting the edge off the hone while you ride the shoulder of the bevel. You might want to consider using a layer of tape on the spine till you get the idea of how light a touch you need to prevent excess wear to the spine. Good luck and be sure to ask if you have any other question or problems.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
-
08-12-2016, 03:37 PM #14
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215Metal polish and 000 steel wool will get the rust off, clean it before you hone. Cleaning after can ruin an edge.
Do tape the spine, learning to hone, you will typically use too much pressure and do too many laps and needlessly grind the spine. Once you master honing razors, then decide if you want to continue to use tape.
Your progression has some large grit jumps, which, for a new razor honer can be challenging. The standard and recommended progression is 1,4,8,12k progression.
Do get some good magnification, there are many threads with recommendation, it does not have to be expensive, 10-15 bucks.
More importantly knowing what you are seeing and what to look for, will speed your journey.
Which 10k did you buy? Not all stones work well with razors, really there are only a few. It is not just about the grit, as said, the binder plays a large part especially in the higher grits.
What brand is the razor? I don’t see any stamps in the photos, the shape looks like a Chinese blade, that has been re-scaled.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Dachsmith (08-15-2016)
-
08-12-2016, 05:26 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,026
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245What brand is the razor ???
I can't see a makers mark in any of the pics...
There are plenty of "New" razors out the that we call RSO's that will NEVER take an shaving edge, this is why so many of us keep asking the same question
-
08-12-2016, 05:33 PM #16