Thread: Chosera Cracks

I thought I would have a go at lapping the cracks from the surface of my 10k Chosera .

Using my Shapton diamond plate I did 10 mins or so which revealed that the cracks are worse than I thought, much more prevalent.

Also whilst the water dried from the surface I could sea the cracks drying before the non cracked parts .

The 5k I can let go of or buy a new one but the 10k cost me an arm and a leg. I was sure that the 10k would out live me.. Maybe I will be forced to go back to my Shaptons?

I know the 10k can be used dry, maybe that's the answer? kinda feel cheated to be honest .

A thought just occurred to me that you might not want to hear


I really haven't had an issue, my 5k had a bit of crazing but I flipped it and haven't had an issue since

BUT

My Chosera hones are used "Professionally" basically near every day, when they are not in use they are face down on a towel that is probably damp..
Basically they hardly ever really dry out except 2 separate weeks out of the year..



IDK maybe the wetting and complete drying is bad for them

Originally Posted by gssixgun

A thought just occurred to me that you might not want to hear


I really haven't had an issue, my 5k had a bit of crazing but I flipped it and haven't had an issue since

BUT

My Chosera hones are used "Professionally" basically near every day, when they are not in use they are face down on a towel that is probably damp..
Basically they hardly ever really dry out except 2 separate weeks out of the year..



IDK maybe the wetting and complete drying is bad for them

Glen, it is really hard to figure. Mine are rarely used. I just don't hone that often, and when I do I may use other alternatives. I do a 5 minute soak, use the hone, into the dish drainer and when relatively dry, and the session is done, back into the kitchen cabinet. All of the hones are laying on their side, about an inch apart from each other, in a clean and dry dark space.

All are treated exactly the same yet my 5k is the only one to exhibit this phenomenon. That is why I'm wondering if it isn't a binder problem of a particular batch ?

It has been a mystery for some time, and really mostly about the 5k

Color me confused Jimmy

I posted about my 1k cracking a (long) while ago. It never affected the performance, so I didn't worry about it. Still true. Granted, I would prefer to have a hone that didn't crack, but I'm not worried about it.

(Never soaked it, but sometimes the 1k sees prolonged use. I thought it may have been from rapid drying in the dry, cold Rochester winter, so I wrapped it in paper towel or actual towel after use to try to slow/even out the drying process.)

I, when new to the sport, left a few hones in water over night....bad idea. The Polar Bear/Kings got a white rime on them when they dried and still work but....
My 1K Chosera is cracked across and somewhat spider webbed. I read somewhere that the binder used is different from the ones years back.
The cracks have not caused trouble. But the appearance is a mess!
I have had to return a couple of the King/Polar Bears due to really bad segregation of grits. 'Bought from a Big name wood working supply house.
So, ugly or no, honing is as honing has been.
If bought at retail store return for another one. If not. Your descendants will probably still be using the hones.
~Richard

I always seal the sides with lacquer to prevent issues.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

A thought just occurred to me that you might not want to hear


I really haven't had an issue, my 5k had a bit of crazing but I flipped it and haven't had an issue since

BUT

My Chosera hones are used "Professionally" basically near every day, when they are not in use they are face down on a towel that is probably damp..
Basically they hardly ever really dry out except 2 separate weeks out of the year..



IDK maybe the wetting and complete drying is bad for them

I think this is spot on.

I never dry any of my ceramic stones . In fact I just give my Shap Pros a wipe with a sponge & put them back in their plastic boxes.
Only recently acquired a 1k & 5k Chocera & they get the same treattment ie a simple wipe down.

The only crazing I've had was on a 12k Pro that was left in a sunny spot.

Some Shapton instructions I lifted from the net. As I said I treat all ceramic stones this way. The old Clay based types are bombproof.

Do not leave stone in water. Doing so may damage the stone. To use the stone, just splash water on it as needed.
Do not leave stone in the sun. Store the stone indoors, out of direct sunlight, instead.
Do not dry the stone with a fan. Doing so may cause hairline cracks to appear on the surface of the stone.
Do not subject stone to extreme temperature. Store the stone indoors at room temperature.
Do not wash stone with hot water. This may damage the stone. Use cold or lukewarm water instead.
Do not wash stone with soap or detergent. This may damage the stone. Use water instead.

Shot in the dark.

If the stone can hold water.

Stone originally cut from moist rock and dries out and checks/cracks after being exposed to the air much like fresh cut lumber.

Sounds good aways. Har!

I am on Cracked Hone Train. I did leave my 5K in water for hours (ER visit).



Even if you had to keep spraying your Chosera, it beats the pants off a sloppy Norton.
My hone is holding. Hone donated divot of self, see lower right of 5K, into water. lapped and ran with it.