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Thread: Naniwa Gouken Fuji 8000

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Notwithstanding horse snot, the simple point was that if you mix brands, or series of hones, the progression may not represent what you might think it is. Due to the different rating systems, and differences in performance, a progression up just grit numbers may not actually be an upward progression. The result is that a seemingly higher grit hone actually can be more coarse than the preceding hone even if it has a higher number stamped on it.
    Last edited by Utopian; 08-22-2016 at 09:46 PM.

  2. #12
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Notwithstanding horse snot, the simple point was that if you mix brands, or series of hones, the progression may not represent what you might think it is. Due to the different rating systems, and differences in performance, a progression up just grit numbers may not actually be an upward progression. The result is that a seemingly higher grit hone actually can be more coarse than the preceding hone even if it has a higher number stamped on it.
    Yes mixing and matching isn't always the best idea.

    To the OP. The Naniwa Hayabusa and Fuji were the only naniwa's that I...... almost liked. I do not like the Naniwa but these hones work well.

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    “if you mix brands, or series of hones the progression may not represent what you might think it is. Due to the different rating systems, and differences in performance, a progression up just grit numbers may not actually be an upward progression. The result is that a seemingly higher grit hone actually can be more coarse than the preceding hone even if it has a higher number stamped on it.”


    Sorry, a 1k will never leave 4k stria and a 4k will never leave 8k stria, may not cut as deep but it is still that wide and each will still be removed by the next stone.

    There’s not, that much difference in stone grits no matter who is rating it, maybe in the high grits it might matter, like the SG20 and the Shapton 30, but not in the bread and butter grits.


    Doesn’t matter, as long as you, set a bevel, (whatever you use) and end at 8 or 12k. 8K is where an edge gets real straight. What happens in the middle, does not matter.


    There are no “rules”, find what works for you, then perfect it. Most new guys, buy what they can afford and will be just fine, as long as the stones are decent quality stones. You really only need three a 1,4 & 8k or anything close.


    I know guys that, bevel set on Harbor Freight diamond plates and/or old carborundum stones, finish on well-worn Barber Hones, and strop the bejesus out of whatever comes across their bench and been doing it for years. They are fine shaving edge.

    Next time I see them, I’ll tell them, they are doing it all wrong…

  4. #14
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post


    I know guys that, bevel set on Harbor Freight diamond plates and/or old carborundum stones, finish on well-worn Barber Hones, and strop the bejesus out of whatever comes across their bench and been doing it for years. They are fine shaving edge.

    Next time I see them, I’ll tell them, they are doing it all wrong…
    Sigh! I wish you wouldn't give out my honing secrets! Hirlau may see it!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Where did you find the Harbor Freight finisher?
    sharptonn and Srdjan like this.

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    I just don’t think you would see much benefit from a 3-4k jump.
    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Sorry, a 1k will never leave 4k stria and a 4k will never leave 8k stria, may not cut as deep but it is still that wide and each will still be removed by the next stone.
    Did you happen to notice that you wrote about a 3-4k jump?
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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    And by the way, I used nothing but a Carborundum and a Swaty for at least 5 years and did not need to bother with a diamond plate.
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  9. #18
    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    My progression was soft ark, hard ark, no-name barber hone and plain leather for 30+ years before I found this site. But, my edges are much better now, it seems.
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    Just a small update if anyone is interested. The Fuji leaves a (to me) very nice shaving edge, not mirror polished under 60 times, but fine scratch marks. As sharp as my best coti probably but not as smooth. Takes some time to remove 3k pro scratches, but will experiment with a tad more pressure when beginning 8k next time, see if that speeds it up a bit without harm.
    "Ignorance is preferable to error, and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing than he who believes what is wrong."-Thomas Jefferson (Notes on Virginia, 1782)

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    Huh? What? Did someone say Harbor Frieght sells a finisher?
    No, they don't of course, but they do sell some diamond plates that are good for forming edges on jnats and such. They will also lap a stone down to wherever you want it but it will need to be made flat afterwards because the HF plates are pretty lopsided, bent and crooked.lol
    They also sell a sawzall for 20 on sale that will allow you to pretty easily make cuts on your jnats. As long as you hold your stone tight against the black plate on the sawzall. I've been looking for an easy way to do this for some time now and didn't think a sawzall would be up for the task. Well it is, and then some. Very happy about it too. A made a bunch of nagura/slurry stones. Was also able to make a tomo out of a corner piece of a jnat that had no tomo nagura. What was the topic? Sorry about that.
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