Thread: Suehiro Gokumyo 20k updated opinion.

Yea, under running water and very lite pressure, maybe 3-4 laps. Even using stones or scotch brite, flood with water, a few scrubs, it good to go.

The Naniwa take a bit more laps, and for it I use a 300 or 400 plate.

I little dish soap as you use the DMT a few laps , eases the cut of the plate & attaches to micro (like that word ) swarf. This cleans the hone faster , as the water flushes the soapy swarf away.

Jimmy, Stuart Tierney gave the Atoma 400 the green light, only the 1200 was advised against. And EKretz, I have had a play with some pencils, lapping plates, and thought about the results I found. I do believe Sir, you are correct, and I withdraw the swarf issue. The bell rang for me as far as your saying the metal had embedded in the stone. I went and looked at three different grit stones, with some soft lead pencils. I couldn't rub them off with a hand or cloth, but I had to rub for a while with an Atoma 400 to get a full grid of pencil off, indicating, you are indeed correct, based on the fact that to remove the pencil marks on a gridded stone, you have to take small amount of the stone, to get out what is in the surface of the stone. An excellent thread,
Cheers Bob.

Personally, I like using a JNat tomo to clean/condition my SG20k. It does a very nice job of cleaning out the swarf and also leaves a nicely wettable surface that doesn't cause water to form beads and leave large dry areas.

Originally Posted by bobski

Jimmy, Stuart Tierney gave the Atoma 400 the green light, only the 1200 was advised against. And EKretz, I have had a play with some pencils, lapping plates, and thought about the results I found. I do believe Sir, you are correct, and I withdraw the swarf issue. The bell rang for me as far as your saying the metal had embedded in the stone.I went and looked at three different grit stones, with some soft lead pencils. I couldn't rub them off with a hand or cloth, but I had to rub for a while with an Atoma 400 to get a full grid of pencil off, indicating, you are indeed correct, based on the fact that to remove the pencil marks on a gridded stone, you have to take small amount of the stone, to get out what is in the surface of the stone. An excellent thread,
Cheers Bob.

The head of Shapton USA, Harrelson Stanley, used to say that you could tell the stone was flat when the color was consistent from end to end .......... IIRC.

Somewhere along the way someone posted about the pencil grid. I always wondered if the pencil lines went a bit deeper into the surface necessitating removal of more stone. I figured it did, but figured it ain't much.

I've laid a pencil grid down and honed on it, to see how quickly it would wear off, and where the most wear would occur. Kind of an interesting experiment, that I'm sure others have tried.