Thread: Sealing JNATs? Whaddya mean by 'laquer'?

Thanks a lot for the links Mike!
I'm reading up on the subject at the moment. If/when I proceed I'll take care (gloves etc) and try to document the process.
Kind regards

I prefer to coat mine with the same Cashew lacquer used by Keith in his videos. I have found it in different places in the US.
Here is one and Here (where I get mine).
I find this is the very best sealer for any stone that will spend any time in water. I don't find it toxic or objectionable in any way except you need to thin it with Lacquer thinner and do a couple of thinner coats and let dry for a couple of days but it is a great sealer. better than anything else I have used.
I find Shelac does not hold up to repeated soakings and extended use. It is great for wood but I would not trust my $$$$ stones to it.

Just my 2¢. Keith's video is great BTW.

Another thanks for the links. I'd like to get ahold of some transparent Cashew (for stamped stones), hopefully they'll restock..

I like most of Keith's videos.

An interesting read on using Cashew Lacquer.

little old qin maker: Finishing Theory - and Some Practice

StewieS.

It has been a while. But here goes:

I got tired of trying to locate Cashew lacquer and decided to give Urushi a try.

Ordered some ki-urushi (raw urushi) and went to work at some Tomonagura, I think I apllied
5 layers, which propably was more than necessary. Sorry for the varying picture quality.

Before:


1 coat


2 or 3 coats


4 coats


4 or 5 coats


Some key points / Important:

- As has been mentioned previously Urushiol, a compound in Urushi, can cause serious allergic reactions. It is the same component that gives most people a rash when touching poison ivy. We don't have poison ivy here in Europe AFAIK, but pictures of those rashes don't look nice to say the least... Some people are apparently immune, but chances are you propably are not. I always wear rubber gloves and long sleeves.
And even though I always wear gloves I try to handle things as if I weren't - i.e. trying to avoid contact.

- Urushi doesn't dry but cure as it reacts with humidiy from the air. I've seen several figures regarding relative humidity - ranging from 60-85%. So I bought a hygrometer
(which measures relative humidiy - you might know these, at least if you're into cigars) and picked up a small
wooden box to use as curing cabinet at a thrift store. I rubbed down the walls of the box with a wet cloth which worked ok for controling the relative humidity.

- Planning ahead is a good idea imo. Have everything ready and in position before you start.

I admire your commitment to authenticity.

I have always used cabinet makers clear lacquer on 3 sides of my Japanese natural stones.

Far more dedicated than I.

I discovered what poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac look - and feel like - the hard way. I thought about sealing my Jnats the authentic way, until I read what urushi does should you come into contact with it uncured.

I'll pass on that. Not worth the risk. I'm happy with polyurethane. Hat's off to you for taking that plunge though.

Thanks for the kind words.
Propably wouldn't have done it though if I had been able get Cashew lacquer. I happened to have a few nagura that were sealed with cashew and it was so much nicer than nailpolish e.g.

I've seen varying figures on this ranging from 1 - 14 days?!

As for myself I've waited for 4-7 days with each coat. Better to err on the side of safety. Normally I will rub hard with a piece of paper towel to see if the coat is cured.

If anyone has a better or even foolproof way to test this please post.

Good job sir, congratulations. Keep up the good work!
MIke