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Thread: Dose this make sense to you?
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10-11-2016, 10:06 PM #41
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Thanked: 169I think with a dmt the slurry if you don't keep a diamond plate free of muck during lapping, the abrasives chew away the nickel and you lose your diamonds
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10-11-2016, 10:13 PM #42
That's been my experience, I borked an Atoma 1200 by letting the lapping slurry get thick and sticky. It then started losing diamond clusters which scratched up some nice hones though there was no visual indication on the plate.
It is essential to keep the lapping slurry flushed and what slurry there is thin.
And I might add that when the plate wears through the nickel by a good amount, it's a great slurry maker for jnats!
Cheers, SteveLast edited by Steve56; 10-11-2016 at 10:21 PM.
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10-11-2016, 11:05 PM #43
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10-11-2016, 11:22 PM #44
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Thanked: 77
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10-12-2016, 12:05 AM #45The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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10-12-2016, 12:15 AM #46
If the stone(man made) is labeled a 12K, then is it not 12K all the way through?
I believe , yes, it is.
The same with the 20K.
I remove swarf & stain with a worn DMT, it brings my stone back to a clean cutting surface that cuts the same as out of the box.
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10-12-2016, 01:05 AM #47
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Thanked: 3215Well, not really just 12k, it is 12k grit and smaller.
They would have a mesh of 12k openings and anything that passes through the holes would be 12k grit, or small. Nothing larger, but yes, some, a lot would be smaller, probably a lot.
Unless, they ran the finish grit through another mesh of say 11k then they would only have grit between 11 and 12k grit, but what would be the benefit?
Yes, refreshing the face would allow the grit to cut its full 12k or 20k depth. Even if you use a non-worn DMT, it would still be 12k grit max.