Thread: Need help - heel is not getting honed

Hey guys, just started to dip my toe into the whole process of honing and I've already run into a bit of a snag. First off I'm honing a vintage Red Imp (wedge), and I'm starting on a 1k Chosera stone. The stone is lapped flat, no questions there. Now I've watched a lot of Lynn's and Glen's videos so most of what I'm doing I'm getting off of them. I started with circles both ways followed by x-strokes (45 degree forward heel strokes). I did the whole inking the edge thing because I thought that would help me, and I noticed the heel of the blade really isn't getting honed. I only taped the blade 1 time, again it is a wedge razor, should I be double tapping for the entire progression? I have the 1k Chosera, 3/8 Naniwa combo, and 12k Naniwa finisher (haven't moved on from the 1k yet). I did put a little extra pressure on the heel with my finger while doing the circles and x-strokes and I managed to get some of the heel honed, but whenever I re-ink the edge and do just x-strokes, again the heel is not getting honed much at all. Any suggestions appreciated. The blade doesn't seemed warped, I guess it's happened because of uneven hone wear? The wear seems pretty even on 1 side, and not so even on the other side (see second picture). Also the width of the blade seems smaller at the heel than it does at the toe.

I would either just keep using finger pressure on the heel (as you were doing) or put more tape on the other areas and less on the heel.

You're on the right track concentrating on the heel, keep at it. One layer of tape should do. Looks to have been honed to a slight smile so search here for rolling X stroke and don't move on from the 1k until you get the bevel set along the entire edge.

Yes, you are on the right track as Grazor says. I'd do small circles just at the area that is giving you trouble at the heel with the rest of the blade edge not in contact with the hone. Do say 10 circles up and back, check the heel area and if necessary repeat till you get the bevel the way you want it at the heel. Once the heel is there do some normal strokes till you get a bevel set the whole length of the edge. Hope that makes some kind of sense. It is easier to show in person than describe in writing. Yes also, to the suggestion to look up the rolling X stroke for dealing with a smiling edge. Good luck.

Bob

On wedges I use two layers of tape.

If the blade is a smiler, and yours is borderline smiler, I put a third piece over the heel and toe.

If I have a problem with the heel I work it on the edge of the stone. Only the area I have a problem with. Using the edge I can make sure the heel is coming in contact with the hone.

You may want to put a bit of pressure on the heel end of the spine when you hone. That might do the trick as well.

GSSIXGUN has a video on honing a smiling wedge. It has a great example of how to hone the heal of the blade.

Well there are many techniques that can take you there. You said you were watching both Lynn and Glens videos. I was just confused by that. Try watching and following just one. Concentrate one doing one persons technique until you get to repeatable results and then start to figure out what other techniques do. The ultimate in learning how to hone is to go to a meet. Even after you get this one dialed in you will be amazed as to how many subtle things you can pick up at a meet or simply sitting down one on one with an experienced member.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Well there are many techniques that can take you there. You said you were watching both Lynn and Glens videos. I was just confused by that. Try watching and following just one. Concentrate one doing one persons technique until you get to repeatable results and then start to figure out what other techniques do. The ultimate in learning how to hone is to go to a meet. Even after you get this one dialed in you will be amazed as to how many subtle things you can pick up at a meet or simply sitting down one on one with an experienced member.

RezDog is right: one approach at a time. You can mark the bevel with a felttip and check after say 10 roundtrips whether the marking is still there or gone