Thread: Confused on differences between Pre-finisher vs finisher vs polisher

Can someone please elaborate, or point me in the direction of an already established thread about the differences between a pre-finisher, finisher, and polishing hone? Why the need to polish - is there a notable difference in the edge performance, or is it just for aesthetics? Is a pre-finisher different than a higher grit bevel setter? I know grit ranges are hard to say, but is there a grit range difference between these. Also, bonus points for an example of a hone or two for each type.

Thanks!

the straighter and smoother the edge is the smoother the shave. low grit hones cut deeper scratches in the edge where as higher grit don't, leaving a straighter smoother edge. as we get higher in the grit rating(or even not so high,as in the case with some of the hard thuris and Arks)they don't cut deep scratches. in this regards it would be called polishing the edge to relieve the deep Stria.I myself wouldnt consider a bevel setter a pre polisher, that would fall more into the area of midrange hones, or in most instances where you can shave comfortable if you have the skills as in a good 8 k Naniwa. then if your looking for more the on to the really nice polishing hones

even simpler explaination, the difference between pre polisher and polisher is about $200.00 Tc

Grit ranges are not hard to say when using synthetic hones, they are what they say they are. Using natural hones is an entirely different story. I use synthetic homes, Naniwas, for that reason as it makes life easier for me.

For me a razor with chips and/or rust on the edge/bevel has the bevel set on a 1K Naniwa. If it is in good condition, no chips/rust, and needs a bevel reset a 3K Naniwa is what I will use.

After those I will refine the bevel/edge on an 8K then 12K Naniwa. The 12K being my finishing hone.

The need to polish the bevel is to eliminate the striations/scratch marks from the previous lower grit hone. These deep scratch marks extending to the very edge leave the edge toothy. By eliminating them you get to a much smoother edge and a comfortable shave.

Bob

It is entirely up to you. The pre-finisher is the hone you use before your final finishing hone. How about stating the obvious?
If you finish on a coticule you call the coticule the finisher. If you take the razor from the coticule to an Escher to finish on, your coticule becomes the pre-finisher and the Escher the finisher and so on.

Depends on the system. I'd say the prefinisher is going to be at least 1 step finer than your 1K bevel setter. Finisher is something you can shave off of, and polisher would be a cut above that. Norton 4/8 - 4k = pre finisher, 8k = finisher. CrOx would be the polisher, if you're using it.

Naniwa you could say that 3 or 5k = prefinisher, 8k finisher, 12/paste = polisher.

And then there are other outliers...I can use my Chinese 12K, Translucent Arkansas, or even a barber hone for everything from bevel set on up to final polish/finish. Clear as mud? I feel the same way.

Varies by the system and tools you choose to employ. Whether or not you'll feel the difference between the edge left by the finisher and polisher depends on your experience with honing, shaving, how stubborn your facial hair is, and how sensitive your face is.

The stages of SR honing:

They do not change only the tools that you use to accomplish them change

Bevel setting - Establishes the base surfaces and insures that the two faces of the bevel meet in a sharp even edge

Sharpening - Further refinement of the bevel and brings the two faces to a more even stage in which they meet at an even thinner plane

Polishing - Polishes the faces of the bevels lessens the depth of the stria creating a smooth even surface for the finisher

Finisher - This can be a Hone or a Paste to impart a more comfortable aspect to the final edge

Honing 101, easy peasy explanation, now if you want to get highly technical we can discuss the multitude of ways to accomplish all four of those stages but to hone a SR to a close comfortable shaving edge you are going to have to climb those steps up the ladder You can can call them different things and you can add steps subtract steps or combine steps but you are going to have to climb them

Glen, I like your explanation of Sharpening. I never considered that I was not just removing scratches from the previous stone, but also was creating a thinner plane. I may spend a little more time at that stage the next time I butcher, I mean hone a razor.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The stages of SR honing:

They do not change only the tools that you use to accomplish them change

Bevel setting - Establishes the base surfaces and insures that the two faces of the bevel meet in a sharp even edge

Sharpening - Further refinement of the bevel and brings the two faces to a more even stage in which they meet at an even thinner plane

Polishing - Polishes the faces of the bevels lessens the depth of the stria creating a smooth even surface for the finisher

Finisher - This can be a Hone or a Paste to impart a more comfortable aspect to the final edge

Honing 101, easy peasy explanation, now if you want to get highly technical we can discuss the multitude of ways to accomplish all four of those stages but to hone a SR to a close comfortable shaving edge you are going to have to climb those steps up the ladder You can can call them different things and you can add steps subtract steps or combine steps but you are going to have to climb them

Excellent explanation however the differentiation of stages is purely artificial to aid understanding of the process. The stages blend into one another while you go.

Originally Posted by Marshal

Depends on the system. I'd say the prefinisher is going to be at least 1 step finer than your 1K bevel setter. Finisher is something you can shave off of, and polisher would be a cut above that. Norton 4/8 - 4k = pre finisher, 8k = finisher. CrOx would be the polisher, if you're using it.

Naniwa you could say that 3 or 5k = prefinisher, 8k finisher, 12/paste = polisher.

And then there are other outliers...I can use my Chinese 12K, Translucent Arkansas, or even a barber hone for everything from bevel set on up to final polish/finish. Clear as mud? I feel the same way.

Varies by the system and tools you choose to employ. Whether or not you'll feel the difference between the edge left by the finisher and polisher depends on your experience with honing, shaving, how stubborn your facial hair is, and how sensitive your face is.

Great input, thanks! Re: the naniwa - what type of naniwa is it? There seem to be several. Is there a particular line from Naniwa that razor users like the most?

Originally Posted by Shokunin

Great input, thanks! Re: the naniwa - what type of naniwa is it? There seem to be several. Is there a particular line from Naniwa that razor users like the most?

Marshal is talking generally about the naniwa hones. They come in several varieties. The popular ones are the specialty and professional lines. Generally speaking, the specialty stones are narrower and the professionals are thicker. There are differences in composition as well. The 1k professional, or green brick is very popular as a bevel setter. As is the 12k, as a finishing stone, providing an excellent edge.