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Thread: Slurry stones too!!
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01-14-2017, 12:48 AM #11
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Thanked: 13245Looks like mine Marshal
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01-14-2017, 01:22 AM #12
There's slurry stones and dressing stones. Dressing stones are used to clean and refresh the surface. The Naniwa dressing stone does not show a grit size so I doubt whether it is supposed to be used as a slurry stone.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.
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FranfC (05-27-2017)
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01-14-2017, 02:50 AM #13
The dressing stone that came with my Chosera 1K works very well to clean up the swarf on my Norton 4K/8K and my Shapton Glass Stones.
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01-14-2017, 05:38 AM #14
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Thanked: 481Well...that's why I had to ask before jumping up to place an order. Of course one has to keep in mind that what a thing is made for in theory does not always match up with how it's used in reality.
For example, when I put in the order for the dressing stone, I also ordered a Naniwa 800 grit stone. The cheaper one, not the Chosera. Obviously this is made to hone things, and part of it may see some of that action. But I'm gonna cut a half inch piece off there and see how it works out as a low grit slurry stone. If it turns to mud as easy as my other synthetics this could be a whole new realm of slurry for me. Full bevel set to shave ready on a PHIG? Chip repair without (fully) defaulting to a 1K synthetic?
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01-14-2017, 06:31 AM #15
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Thanked: 59See! That's what I'm talking about!!
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01-14-2017, 01:08 PM #16
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01-14-2017, 01:49 PM #17
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Thanked: 481Hmm, maybe. But Naniwa seems to run a pretty tight ship. Norton would probably have errant junk particles, I heard their 4Ks took a bit of a quality hit after they moved production to Mexico.
Well, if for whatever reason the prep stone doesn't work the Super Stone 800 chunk should get me where I wanna go. The prep stone will still be good for cleaning up my synthetics, and they kinda need it. My Norton 4K is turning black.
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01-14-2017, 05:27 PM #18
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Thanked: 16The Naniwa dressing stone is made of silica particles, so every usual Corundum (AlOx) Whetstone will abrade the particles, if you rub it with a flat side on it. This is meant for cleaning, opening and conditioning the stone, on top of that you keep your stone reasonably flat and smooth. You can use this stone for slurry too, up to 5K whetstones i didn't see any bigger particles. The stria pattern under the loupe looks like sandblasted and less of the usual grinding pattern than with water only. The stone will stay a lot cleaner, if you use a bit of slurry and the sharpenging will be a bit faster. Whenever you use slurry, the likelihood of a strong burr reduces and if you use alternating strokes the edge will be uniform and slightly less keen than with water only.
You can test it with your kitchen knives. If you like the edge from a 5K you can try to use the 5K with the Naniwa dressing stone and a bit of slurry. If found it to be more usefull than the King Nagura stone (the small yellow one).
For higher grid stones i use Metalmaster artificial resin bonded stones of 10K and 15K. The 10K on my 8K Naniwa combination stone produces a very smooth edge, if i continue with 15K slurry on my 12K Shapton it will tame the harshness and irritating sharpness to a nice and sharp edge. I'm not shure, but i guess you will be able to achive this with a normal 12K Naniwa superstone with a bit of slurry (a hard bonded 3000 oilstone will create enough slurry on every 8K whetstone and above).
I like to play around with different slurries on my natural stones too. The benefit is a slightly different characteristics how the edge feels. I found it to be very beneficial, because i tend to handle razors differently depending on their size. When i think i can improve the edge a bit after a testshave i do my daily routine of playing around until one day (usually on the second or third day) i find the edge i like most for the given razor.Last edited by hein31; 01-14-2017 at 05:31 PM. Reason: typo
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ScoutHikerDad (01-15-2017)
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01-15-2017, 01:24 AM #19
I had some slurry fun today
I took my workhorse Thomas Turner to the hones. It arguably didn't need more than a pasted strop but what is a guy to do when experimenting?
Norton 8K slurry on the 8K diluted to plain water as I went. Then the new to me twist I put 8k slurry on the PHIG and diluted that to what I thought was plain water. I am not a lap counter but after many on the PHIG I called it good. As you can see in the picture the PHIG is drying and I was surprised to see so much yellow yet on the dry part. None visible when wet.
It looks good under my scope and judging from arm hair I am sure it will be an excellent shave tomorrow.
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ScoutHikerDad (01-15-2017)
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01-15-2017, 05:46 PM #20
I've piled up a lot of nagura over the years, the only synthetic being an 8K (king?) that I don't ever use. In my opinion, japanese nagura stones are the most fun to play with, but also coticules (not necessarily on a coticule), thuris, or whatever other soft rock one might find with some abrasive qualities. I'd recommend getting some cheap jnats, cutting and playing around with them. One $50-70 dollar stone may make 3-4 nice naguras to share between friends. Plain Mikawa shiro nagura may be good and cheap, just figure out what it does. I fell in love with a Suita stone recently (take that as you will) and the nagura I made out of one stone is such a helpful little tool. Erases 1K marks very easily and quickly. I also regularly use my Asano set, Botan, Tenjyou and Mejiro.. they just work well, I can feel the improvement on my face.
I like finding out things like, if I go through my Suita step properly, I go to Mejiro, then a fine tomo nagura and I know the edge will be stellar. Like so, I make up slurry progressions that work and note them down. Endless combinations indeed..As the time passes, so we learn.