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Thread: 1k Chosera or 1k King Stone

  1. #11
    Senior Member Whizbang's Avatar
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    I don't get the translation between microns/mesh and grit...can someone explain that for me? And why are diamond stones measured in microns instead of grit?

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    DMT, work fine, but the CKTG is 400 and 1k for half the price. They last just as long as the DMT and produce much the same finish, at the same grits.

    The D8E is about 1200 grit, you will still need a 3-400 grit for heave stock removal and as said use to lap your stones.

    That seems a bit pricy for the D8E, which can be found for about $50-60.

    The CKTG plate, I believe is the I Wood dual plate and can often be found on Ebay for about the same $35 price if shipping is an issue.

    MICRON (μ) is the letter "micron" in the Greek alphabet. As measuring unit it describes 1 thousandth of a millimeter (1 μ = 0.001 mm). A Micron row is added to each FEPA P, FEPA F, JIS und ANSI row for comparison.
    MM Micro-mesh grit in comparison to other standards.
    The grit sizes are defined by the number of lines per inch (25.4 mm) length of each sieve e.g. 150 lines per inch. Abrasives grit 150 will pass this sieve. This chart is a general overview only. We are not responsible for any errors.

    Grit = Micron = Mesh Conversion Chart


    Grit Mesh Micron
    100,000 0- 0.5 1/4
    60,000 0-1 1/2
    14,000 0-2 1
    13,000 1-2 1.5
    9,000 2-3 2.5
    8,000 2-4 3
    5,000 2-6 4
    4,500 4-6 5
    2,800 5-10 7
    1,800 6-12 9
    1,400 8-20 14
    1,200 10-20 15
    1,050 12-25 18
    800 20-30 25
    600 20-40 30
    500 30-40 35
    325 40-50 45
    285 50-60 55
    240 60-80 70
    225 80-100 90
    160 100-120 110
    100 120-160 150

    Sorry chart did not paste well. Here are a couple of good charts

    Gesswein , Dieter Schmid
    Last edited by Euclid440; 02-05-2017 at 02:11 PM.
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    I have a 1K Shapton Pro I got after using a King 1K for a few years. As has been said the King works best with slurry but still is fairly slow. I have used the Shapton Pro 1K. on 5 razors. It was faster, took less pressure & from looking at the King & Shapton edges with my loupe, I can say the Shapton edge looked better.

    Slawman

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    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    I'm gonna say, since you own a 1K, why not try a Chosera 600. Love mine, it's a lot less aggressive than a diamond and is fast enough. You may find it very useful later when you need to do more subtle work, like removing larger chips or pitting from the edges. I'd say going from 600 Chosera to 1K requires less work, than going from a DMT325, or Atoma 400. This has been my experience, at least.
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  6. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srdjan View Post
    I'm gonna say, since you own a 1K, why not try a Chosera 600. Love mine, it's a lot less aggressive than a diamond and is fast enough. You may find it very useful later when you need to do more subtle work, like removing larger chips or pitting from the edges. I'd say going from 600 Chosera to 1K requires less work, than going from a DMT325, or Atoma 400. This has been my experience, at least.
    This is along the lines I was thinking. Rather than another 1K, why not step down to 4/6/800 grit since you know you'll want a LOT of material removed without a large time expenditure.

    Not that a CKTG diamond plate is a bad option, I'd kind of like to get one myself for exactly this type of thing. But I've got an 800 grit Super Stone and can attest that it works scary fast. Much faster than I anticipated an 800 grit stone to work. I almost botched bevel setting on a new to me razor and cost myself time fixing a mistake. Side bonus there isn't a ton of work needed to get the scratches out from that stone. I jumped up to my Norton 4K with relative ease. I think 400 or 600 to 1K would be a bit better though.
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    The reason to not go lower than 1K for me is that you have to get the 600 grit scratches out of the edge. A 1K stone will set the bevel well & unless you had a really messed up blade it would to be a wast of money going lower than 1K unless you wanted to sharpen knives & axe's.

    Slawman

  8. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    True, but when talking about setting the first proper bevel on a Gold Dollar I'd rather spend an extra 5-10 minutes on 600 grit scratches than several hours whittling away on a 1k. I'm sure we've all tried that once.
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  9. #18
    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
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    I use my DMT 325 for edge restorations. It really doesn't take much to get the scratches out with a 1k. I see it like this. Removing a chip on a 1k takes more work then removing the diamond scratches.
    B.J.

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    KN4HJP sqzbxr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeJay View Post
    I use my DMT 325 for edge restorations.
    I do the exact same thing. I bought a Norton 220 for heavy restoration work, but the DMT cuts better and doesn't wear the tape nearly as fast.
    "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats." -H. L. Mencken

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slawman View Post
    The reason to not go lower than 1K for me is that you have to get the 600 grit scratches out of the edge. A 1K stone will set the bevel well & unless you had a really messed up blade it would to be a wast of money going lower than 1K unless you wanted to sharpen knives & axe's.
    And a 2k has to get out the 1k scratches.
    And the 3k has to get out the 2k scratches.
    And the 4k...
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    And the 30k has to get out the 20k scratches, so that is the reason not to go lower than a 30k.

    The point is that you have to start with the hone that most efficiently starts the task. Sometimes that is a 20 or 30k. Sometimes it's a 400.

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