Thread: Shapton 16k, mixed grit??

Originally Posted by Steve56

YW Glen.



Yep, I noticed that at Paul’s Finest too.

Most all of us hone razors on Glass Stones that Shapton does not recommend for razors, you have to especially for any coarse work. I just got a Glass Stone 320 for a really bad kamisori that I’ve been working on.

What you are saying brings into question whether Shapton does not know what they are saying about the hones they make and you fellas do or vice versa. I can see where that leaves some confused.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

What you are saying brings into question whether Shapton does not know what they are saying about the hones they make and you fellas do or vice versa. I can see where that leaves some confused.

Bob

I think that Shapton’s recommendations regarding the 3k-10k-30k sequence is based on beginning with a new razor that’s properly made and ground and does not need corrective honing. And they would likely be right. What else would they assume?

You have to remember that Shapton don’t know what eBay special, Gold Dollar, Pakistani, frowning, badly ground, chipped, or worn razor that you’re honing or restoring. If you have to deal with the full range of razor conditions, you would of course need the full range of hones. And maybe a few diamond plates or a belt sander.

Originally Posted by Steve56

I think that Shapton’s recommendations regarding the 3k-10k-30k sequence is based on beginning with a new razor that’s properly made and ground and does not need corrective honing. And they would likely be right. What else would they assume?

You have to remember that Shapton don’t know what eBay special, Gold Dollar, Pakistani, frowning, badly ground, chipped, or worn razor that you’re honing or restoring. If you have to deal with the full range of razor conditions, you would of course need the full range of hones. And maybe a few diamond plates or a belt sander.

I was not referring to the use of all Shapton hones but just the 16K mentioned in the title of the thread. That seems to generate the controversy and is notably absent in your referenced recommended Shapton hone progression for razors. It is a given that you may need other coarser grits of hones depending on the condition of a particular razor. Anyway I doubt this thread will put the use of the Shapton 16K on razors to rest one way or the other.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

I was not referring to the use of all Shapton hones but just the 16K mentioned in the title of the thread. That seems to generate the controversy and is notably absent in your referenced recommended Shapton hone progression for razors. It is a given that you may need other coarser grits of hones depending on the condition of a particular razor. Anyway I doubt this thread will put the use of the Shapton 16K on razors to rest one way or the other.

Bob

There seems to be two different topics in this thread, one is specific to the suitability of the 16k Glass Stone HR, and the other is ‘How unsuitable is it and the other ones that aren’t recommended?’ The 3k - 10k - 30k HR series is Shapton’srecommendation not mine, I don’t have the 10k or the 30k.

The latter question will. probably have to be decided by the user depending on what they’re doing. Shapton make the same kind of recommendations with the Kuromaku/Pro too, the recommendations are on the paper belt, or obi that comes on the box, and Oz Parker stated somewhere I believe, that the chart he posted was made from the information on those belts.

Anyway, between the two replies from Shapton both questions seem to be answered, at least from Shapton’s point of view.

Could you imagine the threads if everyone could afford 30k Shaptons ?

" I sharpened my razor with the 30k Shapton and..... ( insert negative results here ) "

And the replies would be. "Works just fine on xyz razors."


For Kuromaku Shapton says 2k , 8k, 30k for razors. Would that progression work ? Of course, if you know what you're doing.
I know from experience the Kuromaku 8k will remove small chips & set a bevel but like me you might be scratching your head as to why it took you 2 hours. The 8k & 2k are both green. Best to label each box & stone clearly
I also know that the 320 ,1k & 1.5k are great for restoration purposes yet Shapton don't say that.

I tend to agree with Steve that Shapton's recommendations are for "a new razor that’s properly made and ground and does not need corrective honing."

Oz, I have a friend in France who uses Shapton stones to hone reed knives to make reeds for musical instruments. I could tell that he’s experienced with Shapton so I asked him which ones that he had. His reply? ‘I have everything that Shapton makes.’

There was a fellow on one of the knife forums that finished off his lawn mower blades with a Shapton 30k, now that’s fanatical!

A lot of folks say that they use the Shapton HR 16k just fine, and there’s a clue in Shapton’s response to SharpMan:

‘Furthermore, when using GS16000, you will be able to get better result by 1) short stroke and 2) loose hand-pressure.’

Both of the techniques mentioned are what good razor honers have mastered. Iwasaki mentions the short stroke and of course using the correct pressure is fundamental to getting good results.

So let me recast Shapton’s statement quoted above: ‘If you are a good razor honer, the Shapton 16k will probably produce good results for you.’ This is consistent with what experienced members report in this thread.

I feel for Shapton when they reply to these questions. They don’t know who they are talking to. They could be talking to the best straight razor honer in the world or someone who has never honed a razor before.

Also interesting is that the G7 series is not the same stones as the HR, per Sharpening Supplies and Shapton’s reply to me (via Mark at CKTG) that I did not need the 0.44u G7 (~34k) for razors since I had the 0.85u G7 (~17k).

They are a unique stone manufacturer.

Originally Posted by Steve56

‘Furthermore, when using GS16000, you will be able to get better result by 1) short stroke and 2) loose hand-pressure.’

Of course razors require a light hand but I've always said lighter pressure is essential with the Kuromaku as they cut fast & can cut deep.