Thread: Sealing synthetics

Originally Posted by gssixgun

My Choseras are Mounted to Cedar Bases and sealed just like if they were J-Nats

I have had zero issues since doing so,,

I am about through the 1k Chosera and made a trade for a new Pro 1k I am going to start this one mounted and sealed

My Naniwa Supers I have done nothing to, other then use them, I did waste a bit of good hone down the drain before I learned to let them stabilize first by chasing the "Flat"


ps: I use Min-wax Wood Sealer on the bases and the hones to seal them it allows for flexing

It's a bit off topic but I have a question on that; I have a fine maruka, but it's developing a hairline crack and if left alone, there is a chance it will split in the future. I intend to glue it on a piece if wood, and I've prepared a piece of white oak for that. What is the best type of glue for that purpose? I assume oak is a good choice, I'll waterproof the piece anyway.

Originally Posted by Vasilis

It's a bit off topic but I have a question on that; I have a fine maruka, but it's developing a hairline crack and if left alone, there is a chance it will split in the future. I intend to glue it on a piece if wood, and I've prepared a piece of white oak for that. What is the best type of glue for that purpose? I assume oak is a good choice, I'll waterproof the piece anyway.

I am not sure

I have seen most J-Nats attached to Cedar so that is what I used, I used Marine Epoxy to attach the hones, keeping in mind that taking them back off is near impossible..

I sealed the Cedar with 3 coats before the epoxy...

Also if that wood flexes at all it will snap an already weak stone in an instant so make sure of what you are doing before you do it...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I am not sure

I have seen most J-Nats attached to Cedar so that is what I used, I used Marine Epoxy to attach the hones, keeping in mind that taking them back off is near impossible..

I sealed the Cedar with 3 coats before the epoxy...

Also if that wood flexes at all it will snap an already weak stone in an instant so make sure of what you are doing before you do it...

I dismissed cedar because it's from the gymnosperm category and they usually contain resins that corrode steel, so I considered it a type of wood I would never use for steel and stones.
So, wood flexes. Makes sense. It needs to be completely waterproof, and I need to be careful with the glue, temperature, humidity just in case, and and apply new coats of lacquer frequently on the stone and wood, just in case. I guess I'll go for real lignum vitae just in case.

Lignum = SWEET !!!!

That's an excellent choice. LV should be waterproof on it's own, right?

Well you could take a page from Shapton's book and use tempered plate glass. Glass won't swell, absorb water, or warp which is why I assume they chose it.

I have observed that my Shapton Pros appear to be sealed with something on the sides and back. I know Takeshi-San uses tile sealer.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

Well you could take a page from Shapton's book and use tempered plate glass. Glass won't swell, absorb water, or warp which is why I assume they chose it.

I have observed that my Shapton Pros appear to be sealed with something on the sides and back. I know Takeshi-San uses tile sealer.

Cheers, Steve

After thinking about it, that's what I'll do with my maruka. Only, it doesn't have to be tempered glass (I don't care about the damage that will be caused if the glass breaks with the stone on it, and if it does, it'd better do some damage!), I'll go for a piece of haze/frosted glass, I think that way the glue will work better. Maybe the back side needs to be the same, reduces the chance of slipping. Thank you.

A piece of polished flat granite might work as well and maybe be more durable to bumps and drops. Just a thought.

Cheers, Steve

I don’t get the point of sealing synthetics, some of my synthetics have crazing, but does not affect performance, so is not something I worry about. I also don’t fret about flatness, just smooth and load-up free.

I too, would think sealing synthetics, would trap “in” water and cause more problems.

Lately, I have been using splash and go technique with synthetics, even Kings. I use a squirt bottle, and plastic tray, but they fill and hold water after a few minutes. I do use, probably more water than most. The swarf and extra runoff, can be soaked up with a sponge.

I have been doing some experimentation on swarf load up on some stones, especially the Super Stones, and have found, it can greatly affect performance.

For me, it is well worth getting up, walking to the sink and doing a quick lap with a diamond plate, under running water, in terms of finish and speed.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I don’t get the point of sealing synthetics, some of my synthetics have crazing, but does not affect performance, so is not something I worry about. I also don’t fret about flatness, just smooth and load-up free.

I too, would think sealing synthetics, would trap “in” water and cause more problems.

Lately, I have been using splash and go technique with synthetics, even Kings. I use a squirt bottle, and plastic tray, but they fill and hold water after a few minutes. I do use, probably more water than most. The swarf and extra runoff, can be soaked up with a sponge.

I have been doing some experimentation on swarf load up on some stones, especially the Super Stones, and have found, it can greatly affect performance.

For me, it is well worth getting up, walking to the sink and doing a quick lap with a diamond plate, under running water, in terms of finish and speed.

There is also the other side of the coin; synthetics, the ones safe from crazing, that appear to be so thirsty you can't keep any water on their surface even after leaving them in the water for days.
I'm thinking about sealing one or more of these as well like the Sigma 1.2k or the Sun/Asahi binsui stone from namikawa (supposedly 400 grit but the construction is similar to the cheaper and coarser SiC stones; really solid made without binders, hard but can't get glazed, and even if the particles are in the 400 grit size, they break down easily for slurry use, the surface is very smooth as well and you end up with a perfect bevel setting stone that shaves hair which is my definition as a basic bevel setter, if it shaves hair it does the job, leaving a smooth, uniform edge) I will probably try it at some point.