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Thread: FRANZ SWATY HONES

  1. #31
    Senior Member khaos's Avatar
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    Swaty provenance - Straight Razor Place Forums

    I actually was really interested in this for a while. Here is a distillation of what I have gleaned:

    Original was the 3-line: Franz Swaty, Wahring bei Wien (Austria)

    Then his son did the Marburg 2-line: Franz Swaty, Marburg Austria (someone has a packaging insert that states this)

    Then the 4-line: Franz Swaty Maribor Jugoslavia Fruher Marburg Austria (logical, they changed the stamp to the new location and nationality of Maribor/Marburg, and had to let people know it was the same, Fruher is German for earlier)

    Then another 2-line: Franz Swaty, maribor Jugoslavia

    At some point, Swaty's were distributed by SR Droescher, and had a sticker on the side to this effect. At a later point (I believe), they were distributed by Pike, and had a sticker on the side to this effect as well. It said something "Pike sole US distributors of the original Swaty hone".

    For some reason, the FS, WbW (A) 3-line was popular and barbers/customers used to ask for it as a 3-line, so as a marketing ploy (after Swaty stopped I believe) Pike made a (literally) "The Franz Swaty 3- Line Razor Hone" and it is stamped that on the hone.

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  3. #32
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I have a barber hone that resembles a Swaty in all regards, color, size, texture.... In the logo section in raised letters it says;

    DREI REIHEN
    RASEIR
    MESSERSTEIN
    (Three Line Hone)

    The last in parenthesis is in italicized script. I have the impression this hone was made by the American Hone Co but I am not sure where I got that impression from.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  4. #33
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    So do I have a real 3 line Swaty?

    Just got it from Ebay, it's my first hone. Looks to be about 6x2.

    Has a bit of weird white stuff on it, but otherwise it looks free of wear.

    How old do you think it is? It's killing me to wait for my DMT D8C before trying it out.
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    Last edited by MrMike; 09-17-2009 at 11:24 PM.
    mlvallance likes this.

  5. #34
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrMike View Post
    So do I have a real 3 line Swaty?

    Just got it from Ebay, it's my first hone. Looks to be about 6x2.

    Has a bit of weird white stuff on it, but otherwise it looks free of wear.
    That is a good one.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  6. #35
    Unique. Like all of you. Oldengaerde's Avatar
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    Well, I'm finally in the club too. From a retiring Vienna barber I got this long two line Swaty, in excellent condition, with box and paper:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Swaty Aviso
    Aviso.

    Seit dem am 18. December 1888 erfolg-
    ten Tode des Erfinders, Ingenieurs Franz
    Swaty, Währing
    bei Wien, ist alleiniger Er-
    zeuger des Alumin-Abziehsteines dessen Sohn

    Franz Swaty
    technischer Chemiker
    in Marburg (Oesterreich).


    Diese Steine haben sich seit 1879 einen Welt-
    ruf erworben und circulieren in 90.000 Stück. Für
    jedes Stück wird unbedingte Garantie geleistet
    Quote Originally Posted by Swaty Notice
    Notice.

    Since the decease of the inventor Fran-
    cis Swaty, Währing-Vienna
    , who died on the
    18th of Dec. 1888, his son

    Francis Swaty
    chemist
    Marburg, Austria

    is the sole manufacturer of the Alumine
    honestone.
    These honestones have a world-wide repute
    since 1879 and upwards of 90.000 are in use.
    Every stone is warranted.
    Name:  Swaty-Stein ,,Alumin´´ Gebrauchs-Anweisung.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swaty Gebrauchsanweisung
    Swaty-Stein ,,Alumin''.
    Registrirte Schutzmarke.


    Gebrauchs-Anweisung

    für den
    Alumin-Abziehstein.

    1. Jeder Aluminstein hat zwei verschieden scharfe Seiten,
    die roth angestriche Seite ist die feinere.
    2. Auf der feinen Seite werden nur dünne, ganz hohl
    geschliffene
    Rasirmesser abgezogen u. zw. legt man die Klinge
    mit dem Rücken und der Schneide flach auf den Stein, wie obige
    Zeichnung zeigt, und macht für die Gegenzüge die Klinge stets über
    den Rücken zu wenden hat. Hierauf wird die Schneide probiert.
    Ist die Schneide noch nicht erzielt, so werden weitere 3 bis 4
    Züge gemacht, bis der Zweck erreicht ist.
    3. Halb hohle oder dicke Messer zieht man zuerst auf
    der scharfen Seite vor, (aber ja nicht zu lange, da auf dieser
    Seite durch zu langes Abziehen das Messer leicht überzogen wird,
    d. h. einen Faden bekommt), dann erst auf der feinen Seite wie
    in 2 ab.
    4. Man kann mit Wasser, Oel oder Seifenwasser abziehen.
    5. Falls die scharfe Steinseite nach längerem Gebrauche
    zu fein wird, schleift man diese Seite mit groben Schmirgel-
    papier trocken ab, oder mittels eines flachen Stückchen Natur-
    bims unter Zuhilfenahme van viel Wasser.
    6. Falls die feine Steinseite nach längerem Gebrauche zu
    glatt wird, schleift man sie mit Aluminiumbruch trocken, ohne
    aufzudrücken, ab; das bei diesem Vorgang entstehende Schleif-
    pulver wird mit feinem Schmirgelpapier abgerieben.
    Quote Originally Posted by Swaty Direction for use
    Direction for use
    of the
    Swaty Alumin razor-hones.

    1. The two sides of the Alumine hone-stone differ in rough-
    ness, the one marked red is the finer one.
    2. On the finer surface only thin hollow ground razor
    can be whetted in the following manner: Put the razor with
    back and edge flat on the stone as the above woodcut shows
    and draw the razor 3 or 4 times against the edge; when dra-
    wing back, the razor must be turned on its back. Then try the
    edge. Should it not be sharp enough comence the same process
    again untill the required sharpness is produced.
    3. Half hollow or thik razors must be whetted first
    on the rougher surface (but not to long) and then on the finer
    surface as described under 2.
    4. The whetting can be done with oil, water or soap suds.
    5. Should the rougher side by long use get too smooth
    rub it when dry with the rough emery paper or with a flat
    piece of pumice stone and plenty of water.
    6. Should the finer surface by long use get too smooth
    rub it gently at first with rough emery paper and afterwards
    with finest emery paper.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    A dual grit Swaty by the looks of it!
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  9. #37
    Senior Member PLanzaSr1957's Avatar
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    Question:

    After reading this thread I gleaned out that one can use Emery paper to "sand" or "flatten" ones SWATY to return it to a flat surface.

    My question is, can one use a LAPPING STONE on a SWATY?

    Before I do it I want to ask those who KNOW!

    THX!

    ~Phil

    PS....
    What's a good price to pay for a SWATY that's in excellent condition?
    Last edited by PLanzaSr1957; 04-07-2010 at 03:57 PM.

  10. #38
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLanzaSr1957 View Post
    Question:

    After reading this thread I gleaned out that one can use Emery paper to "sand" or "flatten" ones SWATY to return it to a flat surface.

    My question is, can one use a LAPPING STONE on a SWATY?

    Before I do it I want to ask those who KNOW!

    THX!

    ~Phil

    PS....
    What's a good price to pay for a SWATY that's in excellent condition?
    Phil, IME a swaty is a bear to lap. A DMT D8C 325 will work but will take a lot of time and wear on the plate. A DMT D8XX 120 grit will eat the swaty for breakfast and cry for more. What I do with barber hones now is clean the surface with Comet and a Scotch Brite pad. I try them without lapping.

    The majority of the old barbers did not lap them. IME many of them will work fine as is with the requisite X stroke and lapping may not be necessary. Swatys in good shape seem to go in the $50 range give or take a few bucks. OTOH, I haven't been paying much attention so that estimate may be low or high. All of the above is just IMHO.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  11. #39
    Senior Member PLanzaSr1957's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Phil, IME a swaty is a bear to lap. A DMT D8C 325 will work but will take a lot of time and wear on the plate. A DMT D8XX 120 grit will eat the swaty for breakfast and cry for more. What I do with barber hones now is clean the surface with Comet and a Scotch Brite pad. I try them without lapping.

    The majority of the old barbers did not lap them. IME many of them will work fine as is with the requisite X stroke and lapping may not be necessary. Swatys in good shape seem to go in the $50 range give or take a few bucks. OTOH, I haven't been paying much attention so that estimate may be low or high. All of the above is just IMHO.
    The real reason I ask about "lapping" mine is because it's a hand-me-down heirloom that had been carelessly bumped about and there are quite a few chips around the edges on BOTH sides of the stone. That's why I asked about "lapping" mine.

    What's your opinion on that - knowing more details?

    Thx in advance......

  12. #40
    Senior Member khaos's Avatar
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    In my experience (a few Swatys have passed through my hands) they are a BITCH to lap. I don't think you could do it with the "soft" lapping stones like the Norton or Naniwa- I think the swaty would eat through them. Using sandpaper was fine but it CHEWS through paper like breakfast. Even with a diamond hone its no small task. Also I think I agree with Jimmy- no one used to and from my limited testing its not a big deal.

    Whether you lap it or not, at least smooth the chips- either by beveling the edge or just spot sanding them so they're slightly recessed and smooth. Both will be a lot easier than trying to lap them out.

    With regards to price, typically it's not discussed. I got all of mine for $20 or less (I was lucky) and regret selling some of them at prices between $25 and $35. The one I kept I have gotten such good use out of that personally it's worth a lot more. They seem to go for $50 nowadays and that seems pretty steep but I guess its a question of usage. I have one barber hone (the Swaty) that I use weekly, so if I had to do it again, I would pay more. However, back when I was experimenting I wasn't gonna fork over $$$$ for somethign I wouldn't end up using. The worth is up to you.
    Last edited by khaos; 04-07-2010 at 05:06 PM.

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