Thread: Synthetic Nagura - better understanding requested

Originally Posted by Brontosaurus

Not to derail this thread, but from the comments, I'm interested in a range of base stones for use with synth stones cut to nagura size. Gokumyo 20k and a Cnat were mentioned. Perhaps a translucent Arkansas would work similarly? Or frosted plate glass? Any suggestions?

The PHIGS it really depends on which yours is some are hard and produce nearly zero slurry other will slurry right up

The Arkies are a good playground for slurries

The lapped Spyderco UF is another good playground

There are few threads on here about using Frosted Glass/Glass you need to search them out

Personally I feel the Go20k is a finisher in it's own right that doesn't need anything but a steady hand but hey go play in the mud see what you find

Here is a guy doing just that http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...k-refresh.html

Of course after he posts that is is working for him he is told why it isn't

Originally Posted by Brontosaurus

Not to derail this thread, but from the comments, I'm interested in a range of base stones for use with synth stones cut to nagura size. Gokumyo 20k and a Cnat were mentioned. Perhaps a translucent Arkansas would work similarly? Or frosted plate glass? Any suggestions?

Frosted glass is kind of fun. I got an old glass barber hone, and on inspection figured out that's pretty much all it is. Little guy works just as well as my Arkies, CNat, and JNat as a base for slurry. I've had good success with all of the above and natural stone material. I can only imagine they work equally well with synthetic slurries.

Well, my curiosity got the better of me, so last night I played around with a 1500 trad. Naniwa cut down to nagura size followed by a coticule rubbing stone as slurries on a Dan's true hard Arkansas. 1500 slurry was cutting pretty aggressively and turned to swarf pretty quickly. Rinsed the blade and stone off and switched to a coticule slurry. As I continued, I could really see the bevel start to brighten as the slurry broke down. Then I rinsed off the blade and stone off and tried some laps with the true hard and baby oil.

HHT after stropping wasn't the greatest and the shave wasn't the greatest either. I wonder if this may have to do with the rubbing stones acting as abrasives on the true hard surface, roughening it for the last setion used by itself with oil. Perhaps it would have been better just to stick with slurries and water?

Coticule slurry is a bit weird. Hard garnet that doesn't really break down. You might have discovered what Coticule users refer to as 'slurry dulling.'

I usually try to slip something in between the final Coticule slurry phase and finishing laps. Either thin slurry from a slate or more laps on the finisher, something to help remove any potential rounding that may have been caused by the coti slurry.

Could've also needed a tad more work on the 1500 to ensure bevels were meeting.

Originally Posted by Marshal

Coticule slurry is a bit weird. Hard garnet that doesn't really break down. You might have discovered what Coticule users refer to as 'slurry dulling.'

I usually try to slip something in between the final Coticule slurry phase and finishing laps. Either thin slurry from a slate or more laps on the finisher, something to help remove any potential rounding that may have been caused by the coti slurry.

Could've also needed a tad more work on the 1500 to ensure bevels were meeting.

Thanks. The edge was "shave ready" beforehand, so I really didn't need much from the 1500, other than to rewrite things. The coti slurry brightening the bevel at the end made me think it was behaving differently at that stage. Brightening or "dulling" may have had to do with swarf as well. Normally, I use coticules with straight water. My sense still is that switching to oil on the resurfaced Ark surface may have taken things down a notch. I'll try it again in a few days (just rewrote the edge with a small coticule and a honyama and the edge is looking really good), going 1500 trad. Naniwa slurry > coticule slurry > slate slurry to see how it compares.

Ah, so it was just a touch up to play with the technique then? I've never used baby oil so I don't really have a base of reference for that. I've read in places that thick oil is desired for low grit work, and thin for finishing. I do know that pure mineral oil on my coticule made a rough finish, and had to be thinned with mineral spirit to get where I wanted to be. The same might happen with an Arkansas stone.

Ahh, the joys of slurry… so a lot of variables going on. Unknown grit, Grit size, frangible vs hard grit, pressure, base stone grit and slurry thickness.

When finishing look at the edge, more than the bevel, yes the slurry may be polishing the bevel, but damaging the edge.

With Arks, I keep one side burnished for a known finish producing side, use the flip side for experimenting.

Experiment, and look at the edge, it either improves the straightness of edge or not.

Fun stuff, but for me, a hard ark edge,(Black or Translucent) on water, Smith’s, Ballistol, or drop of oil is hard to beat, stone face will affect results.

My Eschers are pretty fast. I tend to use them with water only. 30 laps no pressure and a marvelous edge [emoji4]


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Getting

Originally Posted by Euclid440

With Arks, I keep one side burnished for a known finish producing side, use the flip side for experimenting

Indeed, this may be the ticket in this case.

Originally Posted by rlmnshvstr8

Getting

Sorry about that. You're right to rein things in.