Thread: Beginner hones

Hi All from Perth Australia

Is the consensus that for a beginner synthetic hones are the way to go?

Would you recommend a coticule for a beginner to maintain an edge then later to hone from bevel set?

All help needed here.

I would recommend starting with well-known synthetics such as the Norton 4/8k or Naniwa Specialty stones (formerly Super Stones). My mentor steered me away from coticules but did have great things to say about Thuringians/Eschers if I really had to have at least one natural finishing hone (proven performance and easy to use even for beginners).

Pretty much any synthetic is a beginner stone with some exceptions of course (I'm thinking some of the Shapton Stones). They are always consistent so you know what you have and what they will do. Stay away from naturals until you have some experience under your belt and can well research them and understand their terminology.

In the end you can get a fantastic edge and shave with synthetics without ever going towards naturals and they are cheaper too.

I'm sort of a contrarian in that I started out with Arkansas stones before moving to synths and natural water-stones afterwards, and now back and forth as the mood strikes me.

In starting out, the Arkansas oil-stone line went well for me as I had a heavy hand. Synths and water-stones generally demand a lighter touch. Whether or not you are holding the stones in your hand or honing on the bench is also a significant factor. I only hone holding the stones in my hand, which tends towards a smaller stone in principle.

Starting out, if you want to get a taste of the whole honing range, from touch-up to bevel-set back to touch-up again, then I would suggest a either Suehiro 1k/6k combo, a King 1k/6k combo, or an Imanishi 1k/6k combo, my preference from experience (and not having tried the Imanishi combo) being the Suehiro. Try to get the best edge you can off 6k, followed by plain leather stropping, before seeking to introduce finer naturals or pasted strops. The synths will need to be lapped from time to time, so 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper used with water on 1/4" (~6mm) plate glass will work well in starting out.

If you want to take the hard route, then it's a soft/black hard Arkansas combo used with honing oil, the black hard Ark being smoothed and the soft Ark side being roughened on occasion, followed by leather, before introducing pasted strops as needed. But try to get the best edge you can off the black hard to leather first.

As far as hand-held goes, 6" x 2" (150mm x 50mm) is sort of the middle setting. 8" x 2-1/2" (200mm x 63mm) is pretty much tops, whereas more and more, I am interested in small stones in the 4" x 1-5/8" (100mm x 42mm), and even smaller than this. Smaller stones demand more of a lateral stroke, which is fine at the finer stage, especially with harder stones, but can risk to cause chipping at the grunt-level stage. So, conservatively, one might move from larger to smaller in stone size in a progression in starting out.

6" x 2" up to 8" x 2-1/2" is fine as to a two-stage combo progression, either in the hand or on the bench.

What combination of synthetics would you consider to start with? 1k 3k 6k 8k?

How about this 1k 3k 8k Naniwa Chosera Japanese Waterstone Set

Welcome mate, I'm an east coast aussie. You will get lots of great advice here, especially when starting out. I would avoid using a coticule at your stage. Most blokes who are starting out tend to stick to synthetic stones and I'd suggest that's your best way to go. Most hobbyist honers out there own a coarser stone to set bevels. (An annoying word you will hear a lot).
If I had my time over I would buy a Naniwa Chosera 1k (Professional stone), it will last forever and even pros use this one. To get started stick with Naniwa stones. Then progress up to the old term superstones (Now called specialty stones) get a 3k, a 5k and an 8k. You should be able to shave with an 8k finished edge. You will hear tons of opinions on where to go from there. Some will say get a 12k Naniwa, and it's a great option. It is a polishing stone and will still be a good stone in 5 years. I'd suggest also that you find someone over in the West to hone your first razor, then all you need is your strop and say, the 8k to touch up if it begins to fail.
As far as natural stones go, give it a year, and get the basics right first. When I started I bought two identical Dovo 5/8 razors. One was sent to be pro honed and the other I played with, because I knew what a good edge felt like on my skin. That way you get great shaves from day 1, and you can hone the other one knowing what you are trying to achieve. People may also say buy a Gold dollar to practice on, so you wont wreck a new razor. Just my view, but I think its fine to use a good razor. You know the steel is excellent and it can shave great so when learning you will take care of it, just use tape to protect spine wear from over doing it, like we all did with out first razor.
The progression I mentioned isn't one you will regret later on, meaning you wont have to move up a notch other than in the finishing department, where you can consider coticules and Japanese natural stones. But tread lightly in the beginning, there are expensive Synthetic finishers like the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k, which you could consider in a year or so, as you could Japanese naturals. Hasten slowly, but those Naniwa's wont go out of fashion, they will be good for a long time....

Hey bobski

Thanks for your help.

I see you are getting into the JNats how are they going for you? You recommend 1k 3k 5k 8k naniwa? What type of finisher would you recommend?

I'm very new to Jnats, so I'm very much learning how to best use them. I have two, An Ozuku Asagi and a Wakasa that I bought off the reliable Takeshi at Aframestokyo. Results so far are positive. I did dabble in coticules, but I couldn't get the ones I had to work.

As for a finisher for your purposes, really considering the expense of high end synthetics like the 20k Suehiro, your best bet would be a 12k Naniwa. The shaves don't get much better than off that stone. Sure you can chase amazing edges with any number of stones, but you will have terrific shaves finishing on the 12k Naniwa, and it will not really ever be redundant and equally important it's not over expensive. Your other alternative could be to hold off on the 12k stone, and use a chromium oxide strop after the 8k stone. This type of strop can notch up an 8k edge, and can be used to help maintain an edge.

Keep an eye on the threads about hones and honing, there are many seriously experienced honers out there, guys with a lifetimes worth of insight. They know far more than me on this topic, and I'm sure you will get supported by fellow members, they are all patient and will help at every chance. It's good you ask the questions, its the best way to get the ball rolling.

Cheers Bob

If I had to start learning honing again, I go the same way I did the first time. Started using Naniwa hones and eventually wound up with a 1,3 8, and 12K progression. The 1K you could forgo if the blades you will be doing do not need major chips and such removed. The 3K is a good bevel setter on blades in reasonable edge condition. The 12K is a nice finishing hone that works for use in touching up an edge that is just starting to go south.

The reason I went with the Naniwa hones is that they are consistent in the grit ratings, you get what they are rated at. Makes the whole thing less bother than trying to figure out naturals and their quirks. Synthetics, to me, are just a whole lot easier to learn on.

Bob