Thread: Slurry stone

I have a shoubudani finisher and I picked up a vintage Thuri from Griffith shaving. the shoubudani came with a slurry stone of same stone but it is extremely difficult building slurry with it. My Thuri that is coming in didn't include a slurry stone. Was thinking of getting a small 1200 grit diamond plate/object as a stone to build slurry. You guys have any recommendations? Saw a 1200 grit diamond sheet like thing from DMT the size of a credit card thinking about getting it

That will work. You also can find a very small Arkansas knife hone for just a few dollars and that will work too.

Any diamond plate will work, but if you don’t have one, the 1k/400 combo grit Diamond Plate from Chef Knives to go, at $35 is a deal, and you can use the 400 to lap and maintain your stones, the 1k for serious edge correction and as a Diamond nagura for Jnats and the Thüringen.

A Diamond nagura to a Tomo nagura is a good Jnat progression and once you learn your stone, all you really need, going from a good mid-grade edge, 4-8k synthetic edge to a Jnat. An 8k edge is a good edge to jump to just a Jnat finish.

You can even experiment with a 400 grit Diamond slurry for aggressive metal polish/removal and use the 1k for a mid-grit slurry and finish on thin tomo slurry..

For tomo slurry you don’t need much, so a thin slurry is usually plenty, again depending on your stone.

The credit card diamond plates are difficult for me to use, they stick to the stone, I find a full-size plate easier and much more versatile and the CNTG is not much more.

Do experiment with slurry thickness and dilution, I like a very weak natural soap dilution (I use Dr Bonner’s) on a wet stone for a more even slurry distribution, on Naturals. I believe most folks use too much or thick of slurry and it only prolongs the honing.

I find, a thinner slurry, and washing the stone and making fresh thin slurry more productive. Except for when an aggressive slurry is need as in making a large grit jump, like a 1k to a Jnat.

Here too a selection of tomo will help. I have been using a Tsushima tomo for that with good results.

Experiment and have fun, post your results.

Just shoot one of the thurimaniacs a PM. One of them can surely suit you with one....i would always prefer a Slurry stone of the same type, especially on thuringian stones. Griffith normally offers those too....

If you need recommendation who to ask shoot me a PM

I had a similar issue with an Escher I picked up. I was able to find some slurry stones of a different color and they are working just fine. I have a light green stone with a dark blue slurry stone and have had very good results.

I do agree with doorsch that a slurry stone of the same type is preferable.

Thanks for help. At the moment I go from a coticule edge to my shoubudani asagi, actually just picked up a coticule combo slurry stone so that's nice. I think my coti is a bit finer than the 4K/8k norton I don't use much, but I will test going to my 12k naniwa for a few strokes before the shoubudani. I also already have a D8C diamond plate for flattening I think 325 grit, I just didn't like the scratch marks it could leave on my finishing stones. For finishing stones when I flatten I finish with 1k sandpaper. I think I will look into finding a light green Thuri slurry stone if I can. If not I might just consider getting a 1k diamond plate if it is good for slurry and then I won't need to pick up sandpaper. I do love how I don't have to lap my natural stones as much as I did my norton.

Also thought I should add in the slurry stone on shoubu/thuri is just to help with finishing, I coming off coti edge. The shoubu came with a stone similiar to it and I can apply a really good amount of pressure and rub for minutes with hardly any slurry, is crazy.

I'm in the same boat. I'd like a slurry stone for my dark blue Thuri. I'm a simple sort though. Just a small bit of Thuri will do. I have a small diamond hone and not too excited with that and I worry about cross contamination. I have coti slurry stones but again, seems like Apples and Oranges to me.
I looked at Griffith, they are sold out.
Thanks

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Originally Posted by Christian1

The shoubu came with a stone similiar to it and I can apply a really good amount of pressure and rub for minutes with hardly any slurry, is crazy.

I'd be careful gettin' down too hard with a tomo nagura that is as hard as your base awasedo. Before I sold them to Bianco, I had a couple of JNATs with those hard tomo's, and scratched them up a little trying to work up a slurry. It didn't seem to affect the honing, and the seller wasn't worried about it-just something to think about if you're as OCD as I am.

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

I'd be careful gettin' down too hard with a tomo nagura that is as hard as your base awasedo. Before I sold them to Bianco, I had a couple of JNATs with those hard tomo's, and scratched them up a little trying to work up a slurry. It didn't seem to affect the honing, and the seller wasn't worried about it-just something to think about if you're as OCD as I am.

Yea I only put enough pressure that I was comfortable with before stopping. The d8c would give me slurry but again hated those marks so as of now I just use water

I use a 400 Atoma to lap stones flat and an Atoma 1200 to work up a light slurry on any JNAT I have, I just hold the diamond plate at an angle and use light pressure, i tried a 400 slurry but the particles seemed a tad to large and required me to have to work the slurry longer, i will sometimes use a tomo afterwards but honestly have not really noticed a difference in the shave, the slurry from the tomo is finer than the Atoma slurry but under a 10X lope the scratch pattern looks the same and shaves are very good either way, be careful using a DMt card as they are small and tend to flex some if to much pressure is used, also generate your slurry on the ends of the stone as the ends get the least use so if you always generate slurry from the center one tends to dish the stone, this is why I use a full size diamond plate as each time I generate a slurry the plate covers the hole stone so it gets even wear and using the plate helps keep it flat.