Thread: An option on sealing Jnats

Hey folks,
Im going to purchase a jnat, and i was looking for options on sealing it. I found this: what are you guys opinions?
Rust-Oleum Marine Spar Varnish is an exterior polyurethane that provides maximum protection against sunlight, water and sea spray on trim, railings, furniture and other wood boat surfaces
Works above the waterline apply to exterior wood boat surfaces
Oil-Modified urethane provides a very flexible coating that applies easily
Dries to the touch in 1 to 2 hours
Gloss Finish provides long-lasting protection
Excellent durability and corrosion-resistant in extreme weather conditions

Typically I've used regular clear or amber brushing lacquer, mostly because it's easy to remove if you want, but marine varnish would be equally as good or better. All you're really trying to do in most cases is keep water out of the layers of the stone. I've also used Rustoleum black protective brushing enamel on one that was painted then scrubbed (it didn't look right, lol) and it turned out very well indeed, it actually looks and feels somewhat like black urushi, the traditional sealer.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

Typically I've used regular clear or amber brushing lacquer, mostly because it's easy to remove if you want, but marine varnish would be equally as good or better. All you're really trying to do in most cases is keep water out of the layers of the stone. I've also used Rustoleum black protective brushing enamel on one that was painted then scrubbed (it didn't look right, lol) and it turned out very well indeed, it actually looks and feels somewhat like black urushi, the traditional sealer.

Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the feedback!
This stuff only mentions using it on wood, but id think it would be ok on stone. Wouldn't it? I read somewhere that whatever a man chooses it doesn't need to penarate the stone to deep. Is this true? If its true why doesn't it need to penarate? Will it ruin razor edges if it penarates to deeply onto the surface?

Well you just don't want it to fill any pores in the stone. For most harder JNats that won't be a problem because they won't absorb a whole lot, but with softer ones it could possibly cause issues. Any kind of lacquer or varnish that could soak into the stone too deeply could cause issues with all sorts of things - namely the bond strength of the hone, the feel and/or feedback and the cutting power. I have never had that happen though. I've used spar varnish on one stone and it worked out fine.

I found this stuff, it made for masonry such as stone ,brick, slate ect..but its double the price.
Gloss Sealer
DRYLOK® WetLook High Gloss Sealer
DRYLOK® WetLook High Gloss Sealer
Just like natural and man-made stone, concrete and masonry are porous materials that will start to break down, dust, pit, crack, and/or stain when subjected to weather, water, oil, and UV rays. The only way to prevent damage and deterioration is to protect your surfaces with a good quality sealer. DRYLOK® WetLook High Gloss Sealer is a clear, non-yellowing, water-base sealer formulated for use on horizontal and vertical masonry surfaces where a high gloss, wet look finish is desired.

Originally Posted by Southbound

Will it ruin razor edges if it penarates to deeply onto the surface?

Just to be sure what you mean, you do not put the varnish on the honing surface just on the sides and maybe the back.

Nothing that I know of will penetrate the sides enough to cause a problem on the honing surface.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

Just to be sure what you mean, you do not put the varnish on the honing surface just on the sides and maybe the back.

Nothing that I know of will penetrate the sides enough to cause a problem on the honing surface.

Cheers, Steve

I just figured when you seal the sides some could penatrate through to or under the top honing suface. I dont know if it will hurt any thing or not? From what ive read on limited research they are 2 types of sealants: topical sealers and penatrating sealers. Most masonry sealants are the penatrating kind, they fill and clot the pores of the stone, slate or brick keeping moisture out.im just nor sure which type of sealant is the best?? I know im putting the cart before the horse, because i dont even own a jnat yet. I guess im just looking at the best option and i dont want to fool with the traditional Cashew lacquer.Id just hate to wreak an expensive jnat.

When I seal Jnats I thin the cashew so the initial layer penetrates the stone. This will form a support for the stone. Now the concern of this interfering with honing, I do chamfer the edges at 45 degrees so the dried cashew is at least 2mm from the honing surface.

The sealer won't penetrate enough to show up on the honing surface unless there's a significant fissure but that's a different kettle of fish. As Alex1921 says chamfer or round the edges a couple of mm. Really all edges and corners is a good idea. These are layered stones, and if you bump a sharp corner or edge they can chip or flake out in ways that you won't like.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

The sealer won't penetrate enough to show up on the honing surface unless there's a significant fissure but that's a different kettle of fish. As Alex1921 says chamfer or round the edges a couple of mm. Really all edges and corners is a good idea. These are layered stones, and if you bump a sharp corner or edge they can chip or flake out in ways that you won't like.

Cheers, Steve

Thanks fellows! So which do you think would be the most durable the( spar finish) which is for wood, or the( dry lok wet look finish)? I bet the dry lok would be the best because its made for stone and masonry work.The only drawback is its 35.00 a gallon.