Thread: Some questions about lapping Naniwa stones

I got myself a Naniwa flattening stone for this very purpose and immediately regretted it.

It worked, but it seemed like it would clog up fairly quickly. In addition when I laid it on a flat surface it was not flat! I agree with Kamots that they would in time need to be lapped themselves. I came here to see what people preferred and the consensus was either what you are already doing or get a DMT 325.

In answer to your question I believe the coarse DMT is the 325 and the number refers to the grit size. I could be wrong. I have not got round to ordering one yet. I don't do sufficient honing to need it just yet. I would be interested as to how you get on as I have the same Naniwa 12K.

I have heard of people using them for honing too (I guess bevel set) but it seems that it might be a little course at 325.

Originally Posted by Porl

I got myself a Naniwa flattening stone for this very purpose and immediately regretted it.

It worked, but it seemed like it would clog up fairly quickly. In addition when I laid it on a flat surface it was not flat! I agree with Kamots that they would in time need to be lapped themselves. I came here to see what people preferred and the consensus was either what you are already doing or get a DMT 325.

In answer to your question I believe the coarse DMT is the 325 and the number refers to the grit size. I could be wrong. I have not got round to ordering one yet. I don't do sufficient honing to need it just yet. I would be interested as to how you get on as I have the same Naniwa 12K.

I have heard of people using them for honing too (I guess bevel set) but it seems that it might be a little course at 325.

I find this a bit confusing as well, but from what I read the DMT Coarse Hone, D8C, from DMT refers to 45 micron / 325 mesh. Not sure how that translates into "grit".

The D8C is 325 mesh which translates into 325 grit, just different words. Same meaning as far as I,m concerned.

That is a great plate to get. It will rework a damaged edge and lap your stones,, and as it gets worn a very good stone to start your slurry or clean your Hones.

I agree with Stephan, the Atoma 400 is my go to for flattening new stones now, it does not load up as quick and is a fast cutter, but I use my DMT. For everything, kitchen knives, pocket knives, and slurry. Tc

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

That is a great plate to get. It will rework a damaged edge and lap your stones, and as it gets worn a very good stone to start your slurry or clean your Hones.

And this is a good plate for lapping a synthetic stone like a Naniwa?

Originally Posted by Whizbang

And this is a good plate for lapping a synthetic stone like a Naniwa?

I've used my DMT 325 on everything from Nortons, Naniwas, Coticules and Zulu Grey. It's a great piece of equipment and fairly affordable. I've been using mine since about 2011 or '12. It's quite worn but still works great.

Another good one at a good price is the 400/1000 at Chefs Knives To Go.

Can also be used as a bevel setter / chip remover after you've lapped a few rocks with it.

I use a Norton Flattening Stone. It is an aggressive SOB, so just have to be careful not to get carried away.

Originally Posted by kelbro

Another good one at a good price is the 400/1000 at Chefs Knives To Go.

I bought this one as well. Based on price of $35 and 2 grits to work with.

this is also the one I use. 400/1000. My DMT325 I use for repairs on my razors. Reworking a heal/stabilizer and doing some hard cutting of the edge for repairs. The 400 works great on lapping the stones. And the price is really hard to beat.

it has to be tamed first , I mean the 400 / 1000 one
as mine made a few heavy scratches in my Welsh Slate when I used it
so I had to lap it afterwards with 600 sandpaper