Thread: Beginner Hone Setup

Welcome to the forum, I would say that you are on the right track.

What you are suggesting is almost exactly what I do. I buy all of my razors shave ready and I just refresh them on a 12K when required.

The only differences in your suggested set up and mine are that I went with the Naniwa 12K which is a great stone, and my pasted strop is a paddle strop. I just figured that since it is flat it would be better. I don't know if that makes a difference or not but it works well for me.

It seemed like a big cost when I first bought the stone, but it has already paid for itself many times. In addition the fact that I can maintain my own edges gives me some enjoyment and a sense of satisfaction.

Good luck with this. Sorry I can't offer much help on the knives though.

If/when you decide to go further in your honing, for dull razors: That Norton 1000 can be the beginning of your razor honing - as a bevel setter. Your marble slab would allow you to use lapping film for honing in the mid range. And the 12k will be a good finisher.

I started with just lapping film, but didn't really like it for bevel setting or final finish.

If I were seeking to hone razors, kitchen knives, and pocket knives, all from the same set-up, and for a relatively small cost, I would be inclined to pick up an 8" x 2" soft/hard black Arkansas combo from Sharpening supplies for ~$75USD. You could either use their dedicated, food-safe honing oil or cold-pressed olive oil as a honing medium. Use the combo stone straight out of the box, don't bother lapping it. The black side will smooth over with continued use, but the soft Ark side should be continually refreshed with emery cloth to maintain some cutting power.

A synthetic water-stone alternative would be a King or Suehiro 1k/6k combo, followed by a pasted strop, either the T-I alox/diamond crayon or the red Solingen paste (tube or crayon). Cost there can range, but with the pasted stop added, it still should be ~$75USD. For starters, use w/d 320x sandpaper on glass to lap the stone as needed.

Note: I have downgraded the high-end in my recommendations as kitchen and pocket knives would also be sharpened, and in wanting to maintain a limited budget as mentioned. All the same, these should get you to decent shaving. The black hard Arkansas, once smoothed, is an excellent finisher, as is the T-I crayon or Solingen red stuff.

I have Naniwa 12k for occasional touch up, which is not needed often if I strop before/after each shave.

I did actually buy the Norton set with 220, 1000, 4000, 8000 and if I restore a razor or find a nick that needs smoothing out, I do a hone before using the 12k.

I did meet with a mentor who showed me all I need to know to hone, and it really is easier than you think.

But if the blade is already honed, a 12k of any sort should maintain that edge for a long time.

I see several references to Glen for having razors honed. Just wondering what his user name is.

Thanks

Ray

Originally Posted by wmrayt

I see several references to Glen for having razors honed. Just wondering what his user name is.

Thanks

Ray

Hey man, my name is Kevin. To answer your question, his username is gssixgun, his name is Glen. He's a great person to ask questions. But more importantly he will hone your razor professionally, if you want to know what a perfectly honed razor looks and feels like, shoot him a message. Hopefully this helps you out.

Kkeeton53

Thank you

I have a general question. I just received my starter kit from Norton and want to know if I should use tape on every razor. I have just three. One old antique and one used and one new. Should I use tape? Each have different spine ware. Thanks ahead of time.

Tape will reduce the spine wear while learning the honing skills. I would recommend it.

I watched a honemeister use tape on all but one then figured he should. So he then added tape. I'm going with your advise and use tape. Thank you.