Thread: overhoning??

It is a good thread.
https://straightrazorpalace.com/honi...ggestions.html

First of all I enjoy participating in a forum where so much knowledge is available and willingly given out to others.
Ok, I reset the bevel on a fine DMT and then ran it 130 times on the coticule until it started pulling a little. I did this with no slurry. Then I increased the water and did another 20 laps.
After that, I stropped it with CrOx about 50 laps and then 100 on the leather side.
Here are the pictures. I may still need to do some work on the edge and heel. I notice that the edge at the center of the blade is narrower than on the sides. Does this mean I have to put pressure with my finger in the middle of the spine as I am running it through the coticule?

Originally Posted by mitmitzoom

First of all I enjoy participating in a forum where so much knowledge is available and willingly given out to others.
Ok, I reset the bevel on a fine DMT and then ran it 130 times on the coticule until it started pulling a little. I did this with no slurry. Then I increased the water and did another 20 laps.
After that, I stropped it with CrOx about 50 laps and then 100 on the leather side.
Here's a possible scenario. Old Sheffield steel on a DMT = chipping of whatever size = uncomfortable shave. A coticule will need a slurry & a bunch of time to repair that.

Here are the pictures. I may still need to do some work on the edge and heel. I notice that the edge at the center of the blade is narrower than on the sides. Does this mean I have to put pressure with my finger in the middle of the spine as I am running it through the coticule?
No because how will you finish the edge with pressure in the middle of the spine ? You can't use pressure to finish. What you need to find is a stroke that makes contact with all parts of the edge & spine. The blade is no doubt warped & previous honings may exacerbate this. Also as Euclid said the stabiliser at the heel may be lifting the edge off the stone. That can be adjusted. Some links below: https://straightrazorpalace.com/adva...ing-heels.html
https://straightrazorpalace.com/honi...file-heel.html

The razor can be honed but possibly a challenge for you at this stage. You need to research & understand rocking & rolling X strokes but heel is first ,then a new bevel.

I'm sure some more detailed answers will follow but if you are not confident wit the process no harm in sending it out.

Originally Posted by mitmitzoom

I notice that the edge at the center of the blade is narrower than on the sides. Does this mean I have to put pressure with my finger in the middle of the spine as I am running it through the coticule?

No. An uneven bevel width is a product of an uneven grind and is not something that you are doing and normally of not much consequence.

Toss my 2 cents in. Frowning toward the pivot and stabilizer issues are going to happen.

I would recommend to put it aside and go with something better?
Easily fixed as you gain knowledge on easier things.
JMO

Are you using tape?
What other stones do you have available to you?
Is this the first razor you have honed?

"Does this mean I have to put pressure with my finger in the middle of the spine as I am running it through the coticule?"

No, no excessive pressure, this razor needs repair, this is not a standard honing. The heel on the back side is hitting the stabilizer (Green Arrow) and you are adding pressure and an aggressive diamond plate to try to force the heel on the stone, but it can’t, so you are grinding away the middle of the razor, (Red Arrow), if you continue you will grind the razor edge to an S shaped.

The razor is warped, on the other side (Stamped side) you can see where the spine has been ground flat above the heel to past mid-way to the toe. This warp is typical of old Sheffield razors. You must learn to perfect the rolling X stroke, to compensate for the warp, (concave on one side, convex on the other) or you will needlessly grind away much of the blade width and the spine.

With the rolling X you will drop the heel off the stone, to hone the middle on the concave side and lift the heel on the convex side. The amount of drop and lift is only a millimeter or two, that is what you must learn, how much, do not use pressure it is a fluid stroke.

Do not use a diamond plate, you are doing more damage than good. There are many good videos and post on the rolling X.

Correct the heel as shown in the post Oz referred to, the corrected heel should be shaped much like the curve shown by the blue circle. Notice how the reshaping raises the end of the stabilizer and the edge ends well forward of the stabilizer, taking it completely out of contact with the stone. Now the razor will lay flatter on the stone and the whole edge from the heel to past the toe can be honed in a single pass.

Put a layer of tape on the spine, Ink the bevels with colored ink and practice the rolling X stroke on the coticule without slurry, until you can remove ink from the heel to the toe in one lap. The coticule will remove very little metal if no pressure or slurry is used.

Then and only then put 2 layers of tape on the spine and set the bevel on a 1k. If this is your first honing, you may want to start with a flatter, straighter razor and send this one out for honing.

as far as tape, I just use clear scotch tape to protect the spine from further honing ware
other stones 3k, 8, 2 coticules and 2 sided dmt (coarse/fine)
great analysis. I know I have a long way to go still, but I'm working on it.

what a great review and analysis. Just goes to show you how much I need to learn, but I am willing to put in the time and effort it takes.
Thank you

Originally Posted by mitmitzoom

as far as tape, I just use clear scotch tape to protect the spine from further honing ware
other stones 3k, 8, 2 coticules and 2 sided dmt (coarse/fine)
great analysis. I know I have a long way to go still, but I'm working on it.

As mentioned in an earlier post, you should not take Sheffield steel anywhere near a DMT.

Certainly it is evident that the razor has been reground or abraded, particularly on the back side.
Gonna be a labor of love......