Thread: Norton No.1 Washita Oilstone

I don 't think there's a natural stone on earth that's comparable to any of the usual synthetic stones for bevel setting, at least in terms of raw speed. So keep that in mind when looking at natural 'bevel setting' stones and plan accordingly. That said, I lean toward naturals for most phases of razor honing because they're not as aggressive and I don't mind spending an extra few moments honing to get the comfortable shaving edge they provide. But I do have a Norton 1K, Shapton 2K, and Naniwa 800 for those times a razor needs some serious tuning. YMMV.

Definitely not. That's one area that manmade has nature beat.

Originally Posted by eKretz

Do NOT use water on a Washita stone if you want it to keep cutting instead of glazing. For very fine stones like black or translucent Arks water can work. It is detrimental to the stone's cutting speed with the coarser stones because they glaze SO much faster.

There are varying grades of Washita too fellas. There were softer and harder stones as well as more and less dense ones. For bevel setting on a razor you preferably want a softer one that's less dense.

Correct..!

If I'm looking to pull the max from mine, I start with oil, then water, and let the swarf to build up in the pores, the a few drops of Glycerin with a bunch of light passes

Originally Posted by outback

Correct..!

If I'm looking to pull the max from mine, I start with oil, then water, and let the swarf to build up in the pores, the a few drops of Glycerin with a bunch of light passes

That oughta' do it. Just got to refresh the surface every time though to get that speed back.

Well this is going to surprise some and make others down right mad but I ONLY use Washita stones to set a bevel. I have sold all of my synthetic bevel setting (800/1000) hones years ago. I hone 3-5 razors a week on average. What does that tell ya? I’ve gone mad? No, I am afraid not. Setting a bevel on a Washita has many advantages and speed is actually one of them. I rough the surface lightly with a coarse crystolon stone which is WAY too coarse to hone a razor on but the Washita surface is then perfect for the job. It cuts amazingly fast. The swarf turns black within a few strokes and I have even done light restoration work with them. BUT the speed comes not in setting a bevel fast, although I find it comparable to 800/1000 grit, but in the fact that once my bevel is set I am at around a 6000 edge. That is because the surface quickly returns to normal Washita level. If it has not returned then I will flip it over and I am guaranteed a nice smooth surface but generally I can make the surface return to normal cutting at the time I am done setting the bevel but I have been doing this for a while. The secret is in that they cut wide shallow grooves instead of thin deep ones.
It is not hard but takes some practice. No, I haven’t been drinking or smoking anything. This is not a theory. I have set literally hundreds of bevels with them. They are amazing stones. Here is a link where it explains it much better than I can.
https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum...l-hone.297432/

Originally Posted by eKretz

There are varying grades of Washita too fellas. There were softer and harder stones as well as more and less dense ones. For bevel setting on a razor you preferably want a softer one that's less dense.

Very true. I have found lily whites that carry the end label to be a safe bet as to what you get but everything else #1,2, and select Washita (all pike/norton) to be hit or miss as to being fast or slow hard or soft.

I’m learning a lot about my stone with the experienced use comments
I’m starting to understand this stone... it definitely is versatile... it has taken a few uses and refreshing to get it to wake up.
I used it a bit yesterday with mostly water with a drop or 2 of ballistol but was able to almost get bevel set . But spots on edge turned into deep pitting which will need more work. But I easily raised a swarf for the first time. I may continue with depending on my level of patience. But I need to get past edge pitting which is 80% of bevel. Sometimes it’s a zen thing, the mindless / mindful lapping..... what grit is Crystolon stone to refresh ? What are the rest of you using to refresh. Stone now is pretty dark and will need refresh soon.

Originally Posted by Steel

Well this is going to surprise some and make others down right mad but I ONLY use Washita stones to set a bevel. I have sold all of my synthetic bevel setting (800/1000) hones years ago. I hone 3-5 razors a week on average. What does that tell ya? I’ve gone mad? No, I am afraid not. Setting a bevel on a Washita has many advantages and speed is actually one of them. I rough the surface lightly with a coarse crystolon stone which is WAY too coarse to hone a razor on but the Washita surface is then perfect for the job. It cuts amazingly fast. The swarf turns black within a few strokes and I have even done light restoration work with them. BUT the speed comes not in setting a bevel fast, although I find it comparable to 800/1000 grit, but in the fact that once my bevel is set I am at around a 6000 edge. That is because the surface quickly returns to normal Washita level. If it has not returned then I will flip it over and I am guaranteed a nice smooth surface but generally I can make the surface return to normal cutting at the time I am done setting the bevel but I have been doing this for a while. The secret is in that they cut wide shallow grooves instead of thin deep ones.
It is not hard but takes some practice. No, I haven’t been drinking or smoking anything. This is not a theory. I have set literally hundreds of bevels with them. They are amazing stones. Here is a link where it explains it much better than I can.
https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum...l-hone.297432/

Very true, Steel. One of the most versatile stones I've ever used. I've used it as a cutter as well, but it was slurried.
I'd like to use it for that, but my hands don't take the punishment very well, anymore. But I do adore it, after the 1000 Chosera. The way it fine tunes, and strengthens a bevel, is incredible.

Originally Posted by Steel

Well this is going to surprise some and make others down right mad but I ONLY use Washita stones to set a bevel. I have sold all of my synthetic bevel setting (800/1000) hones years ago. I hone 3-5 razors a week on average. What does that tell ya? I’ve gone mad? No, I am afraid not. Setting a bevel on a Washita has many advantages and speed is actually one of them. I rough the surface lightly with a coarse crystolon stone which is WAY too coarse to hone a razor on but the Washita surface is then perfect for the job. It cuts amazingly fast. The swarf turns black within a few strokes and I have even done light restoration work with them. BUT the speed comes not in setting a bevel fast, although I find it comparable to 800/1000 grit, but in the fact that once my bevel is set I am at around a 6000 edge. That is because the surface quickly returns to normal Washita level. If it has not returned then I will flip it over and I am guaranteed a nice smooth surface but generally I can make the surface return to normal cutting at the time I am done setting the bevel but I have been doing this for a while. The secret is in that they cut wide shallow grooves instead of thin deep ones.
It is not hard but takes some practice. No, I haven’t been drinking or smoking anything. This is not a theory. I have set literally hundreds of bevels with them. They are amazing stones. Here is a link where it explains it much better than I can.
https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum...l-hone.297432/

I believe you. I've done it myself also, but I prefer a synthetic only because it's a lot less work - the Washita will certainly set a bevel if it's kept refreshed, but for me it's extra work I don't always feel like doing. I still do set a bevel with a Washita now and then though. The stones don't need to be refreshed nearly as often when used with slightly softer steel. I will have to try that crystolon trick - I usually refresh with loose SiC, so it's a bit of a pain.

There's a couple references in that thread you linked about the stones slowing down due to "clogging" with swarf - that I don't agree with. IMO the vast majority of the loss in cutting speed is due to the stone glazing (abrasive particles dulling) - although I'm sure the swarf clogging the stone plays a minor role also. Evidence of this is pretty clear when the cutting speed stays high a lot longer in softer steels - if the major factor in the speed reduction was clogging, softer steels should slow the stone down faster, not make it cut faster for longer. Especially as the softer steel is easier to pull way more swarf from very quickly.

I can agree with that, just because its true, as well.

For each action there is an equal and opposing reaction.

Or.....Ying/ Yang