Thread: how do you deal with not-so straight edges?

At some point I've stopped trying to correct the geometry and went full 1 inch honing, mostly in hand. Never looked back since. I think there should be info on this here somewhere.
The spine can be completely reshaped, but it will take some time and a lot of sanding. It took me about a week to get one perfect. No one would ever know just by looking at it.
On the film honing thing, it would be easier to get a good edge on a stone, any stone and go for some stropping on CBN progression. You could go for a mix of PCD and CBN progression, as it will be faster, but I always finish on CBN alone (.125) on nano cloth.

With just a little bit of steel removal you can completely change the look of that razor. You can pick up a Diamond 600/1000 grit file for $10-15 or a 325 diamond plate will easily do it.

The spine can easily be reshaped round with a piece of 320 grit wet and dry. Just knock off the corners on the top and bottom by holding a piece of sand paper in your hand and use your thumb to round over the corners. It is quick and easy. Blend with finer grits and polish the face with 600 and 1k paper. You can also shape the heel and toe, with Wet &Dry 220 flat on a smooth surface or make a file by gluing 220 to a wooden paint stick.

Experiment with what it will look like by painting the areas you want to remove with a black sharpie, use coins or washers as templates for your curves, you can easily remove ink with WD40 and start over. A black sharpie is great, because that is exactly what it will look like.

You can also use a Dremel, but it is too easy for it to get away from you. If you do, grind across the blade not with the blade. Really Wet and Dry or Diamonds is the way to go, the metal is thin and removes quickly, it is way safer for you and the razor.

Make sure to remove the edge by jointing the edge on a stone a couple of times. I use a diamond file. I always remove the edge if I am going to work on a razor, It will get re-honed anyway.