Thread: Shapton Glass 30k - Is it worth it?

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

So here's a question for you guys on the idea that Shaptons are intended to be a closed system. On the other end, I was thinking about getting the Shapton Glass 1.5k

Do they make the glass in a 1.5k now ? I thought it was just the Pro that came in that grit.
Anyhoo +1 on the Chocera 3 or 5k post the 1k. Brilliant stones.

I’m glad my original post generated such a useful discussion.

I have a razor on which I’m going to try a full synthetic progression from bevel set to final polish. I have a limited selection of synths, so here’s what I plan:
- bevel set on Shapton Kuromaku Professional Ceramic 1K
- edge development using Norton 4K/8K combo
- finish using the Shapton Glass 7 30K

The jump from 8K to 30K might be a bit much, but that’s what i have.

I’m curious to see how this goes.

Originally Posted by DZEC

I’m glad my original post generated such a useful discussion.

I have a razor on which I’m going to try a full synthetic progression from bevel set to final polish. I have a limited selection of synths, so here’s what I plan:
- bevel set on Shapton Kuromaku Professional Ceramic 1K
- edge development using Norton 4K/8K combo
- finish using the Shapton Glass 7 30K

The jump from 8K to 30K might be a bit much, but that’s what i have.

I’m curious to see how this goes.

That'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on it. I haven't always had the best of luck with big jumps, but I had different hones at the time that aren't as aggressive as the Shaptons.

Originally Posted by DZEC

The jump from 8K to 30K might be a bit much, but that’s what i have.

Reminds me of a saying

"Beware the man that owns only one rifle, he might just know how to use it"

Shaptons can be aggressive cutters when pressed

Hint: Don't be afraid to use a light slurry on the 30k to "Introduce" the 8k edge to the 30k hone use it more like a J-nat and see what you can make happen.

You might also watch that vid on Shaptons I did years ago, I use a 3-2-1 style finish on the 30k, that is only a suggestion, you can adjust that finish to suit maybe a 5-4-3-2-1 or even higher.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hint: Don't be afraid to use a light slurry on the 30k to "Introduce" the 8k edge to the 30k hone use it more like a J-nat and see what you can make happen.

I reckon slurry on the 4k will be a good idea also. Those Kuromaku 1k's are more like an 800 grit in action.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Do they make the glass in a 1.5k now ? I thought it was just the Pro that came in that grit.
Anyhoo +1 on the Chocera 3 or 5k post the 1k. Brilliant stones.

They kinda do. Looks like the Seven line is a bit different and the "1k" (in fact there isn't a 1k stone, I'm just trying to compare it) is closer to what others have as 1k. It is a bit finer compared to Shapton Pro and Glass 1k. Seven is 11.5 micron, while Glass 1k is 14.7 and 2k is 7.35 micron. Shapton Pro 1500 is 9.8 micron.

"The jump from 8K to 30K might be a bit much, but that’s what i have."


After the 8k, just add another layer of tape and put a micro bevel on it with the 30k or do a few laps and hone just the edge. Really it is all you need.

Try to perfect your 8k edge, by jointing and resetting the bevel with 10-15 lite laps on a freshly lapped stone. Or strop on Chrome Oxide prior to the 30k to refine the 8k edge, 10-15 laps will polish just the edge.

.50um stones are too aggressive for most steels and work best as only finishers, 3-4 laps only.

If you do too many, the edge will chip after 2-3 stroppings or before.

Shaved today using a Robeson Shuredge honed using the progression I outlined in my earlier post.

Killed the edge and then reset the bevel using the Shapton Kuromaku (orange) then refined the edge using the Norton 4K/8K, stropping after completing each grit and finished with 10 light laps on the Shapton Glass 7 30K. I did take Euclid’s advice about using CrOx on a balsa paddle strop before the laps on the 30K. No pyramids or anything fancy, just finish on one stone and then move to the next.

Final stropping was 10 passes on Scrupleworks linen followed by 50 on the leather.

The shave was a comfortable 2-pass leading to BBS. I normally end with Thayers, but instead used my alum block just to make sure I hadn’t irritated the skin with an overly sharp edge. No weepers or nicks or irritation.

Final conclusion based on one shave with one razor: the synthetic progression ending with the Shapton 7 30K produced as good a shave as my regular coticule progression ending with a Vermio. The razor may have felt a bit more keen than my coticule edges, but the shave was comfortable and close without causing any skin irritation.

As far as answering my original question in the OP, beats me. I got the Shapton 30k at a great price and if I didn’t already have the coticules, I would be very satisfied with the shaves I get using it along with the Norton 4K/8K. Along with a bevel setter, that seems a quite reasonably priced synthetic progression.

Originally Posted by DZEC

Final conclusion based on one shave with one razor: the synthetic progression ending with the Shapton 7 30K produced as good a shave as my regular coticule progression ending with a Vermio. The razor may have felt a bit more keen than my coticule edges, but the shave was comfortable and close without causing any skin irritation.

Bit of an eye opener isn't it ?
A sharp razor is a sharp razor no matter how it got there.

Originally Posted by DZEC

Shaved today using a Robeson Shuredge honed using the progression I outlined in my earlier post.

Good solid NY maker, that should hold a 30K edge no prob... Now I need to break mine out and use it hehehe

"The Razor that Fits your Face"