Thread: Wet Stone Cleaning Video

I would think using small nagura cleaning stones would tend to cause the main stone to get dished so that’s why I use an Atoma plate

Originally Posted by JOB15

I just tried the rust erasers.

Gok 20 & Shapton Glass 30k loaded both of them with Vintage Sheffield Steel and then used the finer of the two erasers.

They worked very well for me . It has a rubber feel to it, cleaning both stones quickly and without removing much stone at all.

Maybe it is a case of each to their own ? First try and it performed better than i thought it would. See how it pans out over time..

If you don't change the stones and rarely use them, maybe they will perform the same on the long run. I can't tell as I never used them with one type of stone only and they tend to disintegrate over time and get debris on some stones. Other stuff never gave me this much trouble and perform better overall.

I rarely use synthetics so they won't see much action. I did notice tiny debris as you mentioned so I made sure I rinsed them well.
Also I have a bunch of knife sharpening hones which I don't really care about so I'll use the coarse eraser for those.

Since that Naniwa dressing stone took a chunk out of my Shapton glass 16k I stopped cleaning them and just lapped them but the high grit hones do need a clean and not a lap so often. This seems to be a good option so far.
Cheers
Joseph

I run a Naniwa progression and have a Naniwa cleaning stone.

I will most likely continue to follow Glens way and it’s the way I was taught, use a Atoma plate (#400 ) before using each stone and just do a light figure 8 pattern and leave a light slurry on each stone, the slurry helps and lapping each time keeps the stones flat........... Been doing this for over 3 years and have yet to wear out a stone

When I first started honing and restoring edges, I didn’t want to invest too much in stones (that has changed owing to a short but intense bout of HAD) and bought a set of 3 DMT credit card sized diamond hones when they were on sale on Amazon. They worked quite well as slurry stones until I was able to get hold of a decent BBW/coticule combo slurry stone to go with the combo coti I had inherited.

The cards are an inconvenient size for full size stones, but work great to clean or raise a slurry on my 6 x 1.5 inch coti.

I still carry those cards in my go bag for camping. They touch up the edge of a knife or a hatchet very nicely.

Originally Posted by Jnatcat

I would think using small nagura cleaning stones would tend to cause the main stone to get dished so that’s why I use an Atoma plate

Depends on the stone, and the nagura, and how you use it. It goes without saying if you focus in an area you're going to dish the hone. If we're talking about something like my PHIG, an Arkansas stone, or the Shapton Kuromaku set I've got? You can rub those all day with whatever you want, chances are you'll wear the nagura more than you will the base stone. And if you follow up with a flattening every now and then the stone's will be flat enough to do what it needs to.

On the other hand something softer like my Norton hones, or even Welsh slate, I'm a lot more careful with what I use on those. I use a Naniwa rubbing stone to wipe swarf off the Nortons. One pass up and back keeps them clean enough for my liking without eating a ton of stone away or causing any detrimental dishing. The Welsh slates have been polished on one side, the other side I only use the accompanying slate rubbing stones on. The polished side never gets touched with anything but a razor aside from scrubbing clean with finger tips and running water. So far I haven't dished the other side enough to feel the need to flatten any of them again. Basically if you're aware of the potential to cause dishing and take a few easy steps to avoid it it's not a big problem.

As for the video/creator I do watch Burrfection from time to time. Like anything else there are bits and pieces that work, and things that don't necessarily apply because most of my hones are ceramic or hard naturals, it's a slightly different wheel house.