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Thread: Need to prep Norton stone before use

  1. #11
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Question 1 : Draw a pencil grid on any stone & lapping tell you if the stone is flat or not.

    Question 2 : Looks like you are pushing the razor up & down the stone with your fingers on the heel & toe. Chances are the spine is warped. Try using X strokes.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

  2. #12
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Pretty beat-up for a Naniwa 12k.....
    That is a 25 lap stone at most, IMO.

    It's going to have to be bad sharp to go to that stone. You should be shaving off the 8 before going to the 12.
    Look for Lynn Abrams video on pyramid honing on Norton 4/8. It will get you started and realize good results by allowing you to see what happens as you progress to other stones. Soon, you will develop your own technique.

    I did this and still use 4/8 Norton.
    I have added a Naniwa green 1k to start on some and a 12k to finish.
    Never strayed much from there. Most of my edges last forever on most razors with proper stropping.
    Shaves are great for me. Others go wild with hones. Another hobby for certain!
    I consider honing a chore. Gotta get it done so I can shave!

  3. #13
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    I agree with the above post from Sharpton. You should be able to obtain a very sharp/shavable edge with just the 4/8 Norton. I did it for years. If you cannot get an excellent shave from the Norton 8k then you need to go back to the Norton 4k for a few laps, 10-25, then on to the 8k again.
    It can be done.
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
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    Could be that the bevel is not properly set. If they have been shaving well then probably not unless they somehow got damaged. Remember that is doesn't have to be along the whole length. The edge can be perfect along the whole blade except the toe or the heel or even a small section in the middle and the shave will be off. That is the reason why any test you do needs to be done along the whole length.
    This type of edge for instance is a trick to hone.
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    See the way the toe curves between the red lines? The toe is curved as is the heel (smiling edge) but the spine is straight. That wider part of the edge will contact the hone sooner and hold the toe and heel off the stone.
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    See how both are not touching the plate? With a straight stroke the middle will be honed keen (and eventually worn away) but the toe and heel will not even touch. This requires a rolling x stroke to get the whole edge.

    As oz said you may be pushing on the toe and heel against the stone with your fingers. The hone could be sow bellied or your edge could have a frown. The first test is to get a good straight edge and check your edge, lengthwise the whole width, across the whole length and diagonally both directions. If you see light under it at any point then it definitely needs lapping. I would say that it probably does as that is a lot of wear for that stone.
    Last edited by PaulFLUS; 01-24-2023 at 03:46 PM.
    randydance062449 and STF like this.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

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