Thread: Coticule

Right now in the US on Amazon Shipped free

This is the best bang for the buck still for doing SR's

These have gone up slightly in the last few years but everything has


Shapton Kuromaku 1-5-8-12k you can use as is,, or add a Natural after the 8 or 12 depending on which one you finally buy

Some faces find the 12k a little harsh, which takes you back to your question about Pastes
You can actually "Soften" that bite with the proper use of the proper CrOx on the proper surface

(99% pure .30~ CrOx applied to either Felt or Leather will soften that edge)

https://www.amazon.com/SHAPTON-Kurom...7-857e17e03685

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Right now in the US on Amazon Shipped free

This is the best bang for the buck still for doing SR's

These have gone up slightly in the last few years but everything has


Shapton Kuromaku 1-5-8-12k you can use as is,, or add a Natural after the 8 or 12 depending on which one you finally buy

Some faces find the 12k a little harsh, which takes you back to your question about Pastes
You can actually "Soften" that bite with the proper use of the proper CrOx on the proper surface

(99% pure .30~ CrOx applied to either Felt or Leather will soften that edge)

https://www.amazon.com/SHAPTON-Kurom...7-857e17e03685

This set + a strop + lapping plate + stone holder = 320 usd minimum.

We need to inovate in this hobby to lower the cost if we want people to embrace it.

Originally Posted by GoReds

This set + a strop + lapping plate + stone holder = 320 usd minimum.

We need to inovate in this hobby to lower the cost if we want people to embrace it.

Yes it ain't cheap

Disposable Razors and Can Foam at Walmart are cheap, but my Hollywood Face is worth more, it is a choice, but I made it in 1981, and have never looked back

Also remember Honing vs Maintenance I maintained my first two SRs with a very special Arkie and a Illinois Strop for 26 years BEFORE I ever bought anything else
There are two of us (Ron & I) that still maintain one razor using a simple Barber's Hone just to prove to ourselves that is a viable option..

The OP is trying to restore razors that is a different set of requirements

Exactly that.

When I'm "tutoring" I put the emphasis on first a good stropping technique with a good strop.

And a year down the line a finisher, and if it's too expensive for you take one that you can hold in the palm of your hand, some say that's the best way to go.

Or find a vintage Allegro paddle, they do both provided they're in good condition ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

Restoring is another battle. But somehow when you get really into it and you do the math, they pay for themselves.
But at this point in the end It's an investment, a bet, you pay the ante you're ready to pay.

Survivor's biais, all the people in this thread won that bet

Caveat emptor

Well, let's be honest. It can be cheaper but let's face it, most of us don't do this to save money, at least not past the starting point. The bang for buck ratio is always a motivator but most of us who are honest with ourselves know we're not saving much money.

Originally Posted by GoReds

Nice suggestion.

What would be a cheap honing setup that you would recommend?

I want you to remember that it's all about shaving your face comfortably. Unless you own a business that hones commercially, all those stones are not necessary. I'm sure there are a lot of people that will disagree with what I tell you. That's okay. They have their methods (and they work) and I have mine (and it works for me). That's all I care about. Back in the past, do you think people had all these high dollar stones? I don't know....

Even if the razor is in good condition, edge wise, I'll normally bread knife the edge and start over. That way there will no be question about the edge. I can only hold myself accountable for the quality of the shave.

I start by setting the bevel with a 3" wide X 8" long piece of wet/dry sandpaper attached to a piece of plate glass using rubber cement to hold it in place. You'll need at least a 10X loupe to look at the edge. It's the most important part of honing a razor. You don't set the bevel, you're just wasting your time on progressing to the polishing stage. How do you know whether the bevel is set? As you take the razor across the paper (laps I think they call it here) you'll produce a burr on one side of the edge. A burr is a little ridge on one side and you can feel it with your fingernail.Once you feel that burr, you're close. Turn the razor over and remove the burr until you have a smooth transition to the edge on both sides. Your bevel will be sharp and course at this time but it is set. Now proceed to start the polishing process. This will produce a nice crisp sharp edge.

Using marble plates, 3" X 6" I start by using CrOx or chromium oxide and mixture of mineral oil and mineral spirits as a lubricant (50/50 mix). Then probably run the razor 40 laps. Run it one way then turn it over and run the other way 40 times. Check your edge with your loupe. You should start to see the scratches disappearing. I always take a piece of balsa wood and run the edge down on a corner to remove particles (I think it's called swarf) and clean the edge before moving to the next plate.

Next marble plate is blue Oxide. It's a polishing compound but much finer than chromium oxide. Same process. Check the edge with the loupe.

Next two plates use diamond paste. 0.5microns and 0.25 microns. Same process. Check the edge with the loupe. Should have a descent smooth edge by now. You could probably shave from this edge but would be a little uncomfortable. Don't recommend it.

The last marble plate has a piece of 0.3micron Non PSA Aluminum oxide film with lubricant. Same process as above.

Now I use a black Arkansas surgical stone from Dan's to really smooth it out. Same process as above.

And finally I use a piece of slate that I found in the Potomac River in Virginia as the finisher. Same process as above. Very sharp edge now.

Then I use linen strop 20 laps coated with CrOx, turn it over and 20 laps with blue oxide. Very light pressure. Finish it with a nice leather strop. I use a Lucky Strike horse hide and 40 laps.

And finally, I use a balsa wood strop infused with 0.25 micron paste. It's 3"X 6" and run 20 laps on it. That's it.

That's it! For me, it produces the edge that I want. Crisp and very smooth. Everything that I have invested in this process is less than $100.00.

For touch ups I use the Arkansas stone and river rock. I can't remember the last time that I had to touch up my razors. I have a rotation of 8 straight razors that I use. They deliver a great shave every time.

Remember, It's all about you and what you will accept. I'm content with my edges and didn't spend a whole bunch of money on stuff that may not work for you.

That's my story! I've have a lot of help from Outback and he has helped me think about so many things. If he offers you advise, listen to what he's telling you. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Johntoad57

I want you to remember that it's all about shaving your face comfortably. Unless you own a business that hones commercially, all those stones are not necessary. I'm sure there are a lot of people that will disagree with what I tell you. That's okay. They have their methods (and they work) and I have mine (and it works for me). That's all I care about. Back in the past, do you think people had all these high dollar stones? I don't know....

Even if the razor is in good condition, edge wise, I'll normally bread knife the edge and start over. That way there will no be question about the edge. I can only hold myself accountable for the quality of the shave.

I start by setting the bevel with a 3" wide X 8" long piece of wet/dry sandpaper attached to a piece of plate glass using rubber cement to hold it in place. You'll need at least a 10X loupe to look at the edge. It's the most important part of honing a razor. You don't set the bevel, you're just wasting your time on progressing to the polishing stage. How do you know whether the bevel is set? As you take the razor across the paper (laps I think they call it here) you'll produce a burr on one side of the edge. A burr is a little ridge on one side and you can feel it with your fingernail.Once you feel that burr, you're close. Turn the razor over and remove the burr until you have a smooth transition to the edge on both sides. Your bevel will be sharp and course at this time but it is set. Now proceed to start the polishing process. This will produce a nice crisp sharp edge.

Using marble plates, 3" X 6" I start by using CrOx or chromium oxide and mixture of mineral oil and mineral spirits as a lubricant (50/50 mix). Then probably run the razor 40 laps. Run it one way then turn it over and run the other way 40 times. Check your edge with your loupe. You should start to see the scratches disappearing. I always take a piece of balsa wood and run the edge down on a corner to remove particles (I think it's called swarf) and clean the edge before moving to the next plate.

Next marble plate is blue Oxide. It's a polishing compound but much finer than chromium oxide. Same process. Check the edge with the loupe.

Next two plates use diamond paste. 0.5microns and 0.25 microns. Same process. Check the edge with the loupe. Should have a descent smooth edge by now. You could probably shave from this edge but would be a little uncomfortable. Don't recommend it.

The last marble plate has a piece of 0.3micron Non PSA Aluminum oxide film with lubricant. Same process as above.

Now I use a black Arkansas surgical stone from Dan's to really smooth it out. Same process as above.

And finally I use a piece of slate that I found in the Potomac River in Virginia as the finisher. Same process as above. Very sharp edge now.

Then I use linen strop 20 laps coated with CrOx, turn it over and 20 laps with blue oxide. Very light pressure. Finish it with a nice leather strop. I use a Lucky Strike horse hide and 40 laps.

And finally, I use a balsa wood strop infused with 0.25 micron paste. It's 3"X 6" and run 20 laps on it. That's it.

That's it! For me, it produces the edge that I want. Crisp and very smooth. Everything that I have invested in this process is less than $100.00.

For touch ups I use the Arkansas stone and river rock. I can't remember the last time that I had to touch up my razors. I have a rotation of 8 straight razors that I use. They deliver a great shave every time.

Remember, It's all about you and what you will accept. I'm content with my edges and didn't spend a whole bunch of money on stuff that may not work for you.

That's my story! I've have a lot of help from Outback and he has helped me think about so many things. If he offers you advise, listen to what he's telling you. Good luck!

This is a very very interesting approach on honing. I really enjoyed reading it.

Just some questions please.

What kind of grit do you use to set the bevel through sandpaper?

Do you use one piece of marble or one for each Crox : pastes etc?

What brand are you using for blue oxide?

If you put the last edge with 0.25um balsa, have you tried to keep it refreshed with a 0.1um in balsa? You might be surprised. I kept a razor refreshed by touching it up daily in a pasted balsa with 0.1um after that razor came to me shave ready from a 0.5, 0.3um and 0.1um pasted balsa strop.

Again, I really enjoyed your setup. Basically it needs crox/diamond paste, balsa, cotton strop, 1to 5 pieces of marble plates and one (you use 2 actually) stone. You gave me a lot to think of.

My cheap set up would be
Naniwa 5k/10k combo. As long as you are not restoring a new razor this should be plenty of range. To stay cheap you can follow it up with a pasted strop - however I would probably follow it up with a dans surgical black arkansas stone or a surgical/translucent from ebay (vintage - not some meh brand).

Will want a diamond plate for flattening - I recomend atoma. As for strop I really like the Tony Miller heirloom strops.

Would not get into straights if the quality had to drop below that. If just trying to save money I would recommend a DE razor first. It has cheap entry, easier learning curve, and great shaves still.

Already have the 1k-12kk Kuromaku stones

Originally Posted by Cattleman02

Already have the 1k-12kk Kuromaku stones

Sweet. Next step after that is just finding your preferred finisher. The main 4 are normally Arkansas stones, jnats, thuringians, and coticules. Would be a good idea to try out these edges from other people with these stones to get an idea of how they perform.

Arkansas stones are the most consistent and will have very sharp edges.
Jnats can vary a lot but if you buy from a good vendor they can be sharp and smooth.
Thurungians and coticules can be very smooth but not as sharp.

I love all of them except thuringians/eschers and some people are the opposite. Thuringians and Arkansas stones are very consistent and edges stone from stone will be very similar. Jnats and coticules vary a good chunk - jnats can somewhat be narrowed down. Coticules can be a roll of the dice each time. There are some "tells" for a finishing coticule but they usually shoot the price up a bunch as well.