Thread: Cleaning Shapton Glasstones

I do like your list for the breaking points as they pertain to razors, the labels could be changed for personal preference.

Originally Posted by kevint

As you pointed out, the dimension of the edge is continuously decreasing;

The average dimension is decreasing, but there is a nonlinear edge that remains just about constant. So really you are just smoothing out the irregularities after ~1k.

Originally Posted by kevint

Nope not buying into that Russ.

There's nothing to buy into, that's just the way it is.

The function of the tool cannot be left out of the question. A nakayama is the zen-stone for a razor, but it's a "waste of time" stone for a utility knife.

Both must be sharpened, but the intended use determines the label you give the stone that each is finished on.

Sorry Scott for demolishing your cleaning thread. I know what you're talking about. there's the stuff that is easily removed with a wash and a wipe and the stuff that's left behind. If you use both sides of the stone like Glen says, I'm sure most people do. You can also use the ends for short straight line strokes. Sometimes I make a W. heel to toe ending @ center stone; then toe to heel for the second half. All strategies to use the clean parts of the stone, and to control length of time a given section is honed to maintain or regain balanced shape.

when do you consider the stone to "load up"?

[quote=Russel Baldridge;250411]I do like your list for the breaking points as they pertain to razors, the labels could be changed for personal preference. Yes, per you semantic pleasure

The average dimension is decreasing, but there is a nonlinear edge that remains just about constant. So really you are just smoothing out the irregularities after ~1k.And you say that is the effect of polishing(imprecise action) rather than sharpening(precise action)
There's nothing to buy into, that's just the way it is.

The function of the tool cannot be left out of the question. A nakayama is the zen-stone for a razor, but it's a "waste of time" stone for a utility knife.I know you refer to a high quality nakayma polishing stone....wait what'd i just say. nakayama in an of itself doesn't descrbe much

Both must be sharpened, but the intended use determines the label you give the stone that each is finished on. ?[/quote]

The zen aspect is the act of creating nothing. -I thought it clever
It's been fun discussing however, I'm sorry I brought it up.

Yes, apologies are due for the hijack. Sorry, Scott.

You guys mention making passes from both sides of the stone, is that to dislodge some of the metal that may be caught against some of the grit, or to make use of the other side of the grit particles that may not be coated in metal?

Does it significantly extend the time between cleanings?

I would be surprised if your comet and scouring pad method harmed the stone, so if it's working, I say keep doing it.

I don't know about making passes from both sides, it all ends up in the same X-pattern
for me. I also don't think that Comet is a soap per-se, but if I can find a nylon brush
that does the same job I'd be happy to use that as well.

Thanks for all of the input!

- Scott

I rotate my stones ....as far as flipping after like 10-20 strokes. I can difinitiely say that my stones are no longer white. I try to rub them off with my hand under water, but they arent the same as when i first got them.

Originally Posted by sebell

I also don't think that Comet is a soap per-se, but if I can find a nylon brush that does the same job I'd be happy to use that as well.

- Scott

Not sure about the Comet branded stuff but many scouring powders do contain bleach of some form. I'd suggest reading the fine print before using it on a Shapton. It would be fine for Spyderco hones as they are fired ceramics, the Shaptons use some sort of resin binder, sort of like epoxy glue with grit mixed in it. Still trying to get around to using the Nagura... it's essentially scouring powder loosely bound into a block... it shouldn't have anything detrimental to a Shapton hone in it.

Regards

Kaptain "Why the h*ll do I have to go to a wedding this weekend, don't these people understand I have research to do?!?!?" Zero

I haven't tried this either but the thread got me thinking; Maybe a use( as "nagura") for that old novaculite? Assuming it's degreased, cleaned and lapped of course.

if you label the corners A B
C D

when using only one side B D thee is little to no honing at the corners AC right?

sort of like epoxy glue with grit mixed in it

Ahh -- good point KZ, I'll avoid using anything possibly `active' such as Comet in the
future. Hopefully the nylon brush or cloth will accomplish the same task, but if they
don't I'm not against lapping every few razors.

- Scott

Originally Posted by Chris L

Bummer. What kind of razors are you trying to set bevels on using the 2K? vintage restos needing quite a bit of work? How many passes have you done on a razor trying to set the bevel on the 2K?

Chris L

they are vintage blades and i kno the shapton is flat and true, the hone shows dirty the entire path of the stroke sometimes as many as 200 strokes to get a somewhat sharp bevel, recently i used a barber hone after the shapton 2000 and it brought it up to very sharp in 50 strokes so i wasnt that far off, i found that honing with the shapton under a little running water helps a lot, i just have to use my stoneholder or risk clipping a finger, i am probably expecting too sharp a bevel than what it can provide