Thread: Needed honing tools

As the newest member to this forum, I'd like to say hello to everyone and thanks for such a great site!
I'm trying to absorb as much as I can. As a SR user for the past 5+ years, I'd like to query some advice from you experts on honing stones. Currently my toolbox contains a Norton 4000/8000 water stone, a couple of Russian leather strops and a paddle with .5 & 1 micron paste. I'm able to get a usable edge most of the time and there are times when I get a blade that seems to be “sticky” sharp, producing the best shave. Now I see you folks talk of a super sharp blade that is a real joy to shave with and probably goes beyond my “sticky” blade. I don't think I've ever encountered that sharp of a blade. In doing some research on this forum, I've come across various finishing stones that are used to get that magical finish. I've listed a few here.
Belgian Yellow Coticule Stones
Cotigura Slurry Stone
Shapton
Escher
Belgian Blue
Diamond Glass Lapping Plate
Unfortunately, I'm a little confused on what my next stone should be. That's assuming you all agree my toolbox is only half full in getting to that fine finished edge. Not only is there that special stone, but other needed items such as Slurry stones and Diamond Glass Lapping Plates to use with them. As you all know, some of these items are a lifetime investment which one would want to pass along to sons and grandsons!
So I'm in need of some advice here so that I don't go and purchase duplicate stones, but rather move in a stepped up direction of finishing stone choices to complete my toolbox.
As for the DGLP's, are these necessary or can one send a stone out for lapping?
Again, many thanks for the help and in the meantime I'll be absorbing as much as I can from this great forum!

Random responses below.

If you just want to improve your own razors, then you would see an easy improvement with the Chinese hone. This would be the cheapest way to go. They are available at Woodcraft for something like $35. Some of them can be difficult to lap but it can be done with sandpaper. If you later decide you want to upgrade to something better, you should have no problem selling it in the classifieds. If you need a hone lapped, you can PM me.

Coticules are variable. On the bright side, the way they can be used is also variable. If you want one that is a good finishing hone, make sure you ask for that.

I wouldn't consider a BBW to be appropriate for what you are seeking.

An Escher or a higher grit Shapton will certainly do the job but will cost you more.

You definitely don't need a DGLP. If you want a lapping plate, a DMT8C (325 grit) or coarser will do just fine. You can also get by with just wet/dry sandpaper and a flat surface.

Going with what Utopian said if you want to do it low $ go Chinese 12k or more $ Naniwa 12k or Shapton 16k after your 4/8 Norton. The D8C is very convenient for lapping in the sink under running water.

What they said, but also consider a Thuringian. The vintage stuff, particularly Eshers can be expensive, but more recently quarried stones can be obtained relatively cheaply. Here's a place that sells them. Scroll down to the water stones.
Thuringians will do no more than the Chinese, but they do it better & I find i like using them more.

All good advice given above. What brand straight razors will you be honing and country of origin. All of the hones mentioned above will do a good job on any straight razor and you will be able to obtain the results you are looking for.

I have a wide variety of manufactures and country of origins. Some are harder steel than others in general but there are always exceptions.

After the 8k hone my preference is to use the Esher type hones on the softer steels and the Chinese hone on the harder steels. This is my preference and other members here are getting great results with a different preference.

In general the Sheffield blades have a softer steel where the German and US steels tend to be harder. As I said, there are exceptions in the country of origin and by manufacturer. This is only a general selection I make and I evaluate each blade as I am honing it before making a final selection on finisher. You will not need to purchase several hones to use as finishers and I would recommend against that. Pick one and use it for a few months and then decide if you want to expand your collection and give into HAD. If you are patient you may be able to save some bucks but the Chinese hone is a good deal for a new purchase. Be aware that they do cut slower than the other hones mentioned above and that there are some people with a lot of experience that prefer other hones over the Chinese. I think it is a good low priced hone for what it does. If time is has more value than money look into the other hones.

Many thanks for the quick replies! Utopian, might I ask why the BBW wouldn't be considered for what I'm trying to do? Otherwise I've gone ahead and ordered a Shapton 16000 with the holder. Seems that you all pretty much agreed this would fit the bill. Maybe down the road I'll consider the 32000, but it seems something that fine and I'd just be trying to sharpen on a piece of sheet glass.
Would you still recommend a few swipes on the .5 pasted paddle after the 16000 before going to the cloth and leather as a final step?

Originally Posted by rick54

Many thanks for the quick replies! Utopian, might I ask why the BBW wouldn't be considered for what I'm trying to do? Otherwise I've gone ahead and ordered a Shapton 16000 with the holder. Seems that you all pretty much agreed this would fit the bill. Maybe down the road I'll consider the 32000, but it seems something that fine and I'd just be trying to sharpen on a piece of sheet glass.
Would you still recommend a few swipes on the .5 pasted paddle after the 16000 before going to the cloth and leather as a final step?

I would test shave after the 16 and see how you like it on a few before I went with something else. Try one thing at a time until you get to know it or you won't know which is improving or by how much. I have the 30 and rarely use it. Special occasions. My Sunday go to meeting hone I guess. Maybe I'm just lazy or maybe I'm getting what I need without it.

Originally Posted by rick54

Utopian, might I ask why the BBW wouldn't be considered for what I'm trying to do?

It is both a slower cutter and generally is a coarser grit than the yellow coticule.