Thread: naniwa

I like the 4k Norton. As Randy told me a long time ago you can set a bevel on the 4k if the edge is in good shape to begin with. As far as the stone drying up quickly I keep it in water all of the time. I use the single grit Nortons. If you're going to keep the stone in water all of the time you need to change the water every couple of days or it gets slimy.

I will probably get the Naniwas .... for the same reason Hillary climbed Everest, because they are there .... but every time I get another stone or group of them I ask myself what I am going to do with all of these other rocks that are sitting in the cabinet.

The 220 Norton is probably the only stone in the set that might be more aggressive than the Naniwa 220. The Naniwa 220 is still agressive, but doesn't quite tear up the steel like the Norton. The rest of the Naniwa rotation are actually very fast cutters and as has been noted give very good feedback. The soft feel is amazing to me still. I think these stones are the only stones out there actually made for straight razors (doubt it, but they are perfect for them). The other thing that I like is that when I am using a stone like the Naniwa Super 1K to set a bevel, it is really cutting, but doesn't seem to flatten out the spine alot. Can't explain this.

The pyramid will actually work with either the 5K/8K or the 3K/8K in the Naniwas. Once the bevel is set on a razor, you can do a pyramid starting at either 5 or 7 and go from there. So that means 7 strokes on the 5K and 7 on the 8K, then 5-5, 3-3, 1-2, 1-5 and then go to the 12K. If you are dealing with a razor in fair shape and it doesn't need a re-do on the bevel, you can try a pyramid starting at 10 or 15 strokes and go from there.

Have fun,

Lynn

I like the 4k and 8k probably because i get good edge every time when i first used n 4k i did'nt like it after a realy good lapping and i mean good lapping 4k felt hell of a lot smoother and less grainy. The beauty about these naniwas is i spray a puddle of water on the hone and thats it. The stand is great and for any one that likes holding there hones whilst honing like i do they are very light and easy to hold and hone away.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I will probably get the Naniwas .... for the same reason Hillary climbed Everest, because they are there .... but every time I get another stone or group of them I ask myself what I am going to do with all of these other rocks that are sitting in the cabinet.

Two words, Jimmy...
Bomb shelter!

Originally Posted by Lynn

The 220 Norton is probably the only stone in the set that might be more aggressive than the Naniwa 220. The Naniwa 220 is still agressive, but doesn't quite tear up the steel like the Norton.

I agree about the 220 Norton/Naniwa comparison. I think the reason that the Norton works better is because it is so soft, maybe even too soft, that the slurry ends up forming sort of a paste. Because it is constantly releasing grit, it is also constantly refreshing its surface. The Naniwa 220 is relatively hard and seems to load up quickly. It cuts great right after lapping it but it doesn't continue to cut the way the Norton does. I try to move up to the 400 as quickly as possible after the 220.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I agree about the 220 Norton/Naniwa comparison. I think the reason that the Norton works better is because it is so soft, maybe even too soft, that the slurry ends up forming sort of a paste. Because it is constantly releasing grit, it is also constantly refreshing its surface. The Naniwa 220 is relatively hard and seems to load up quickly. It cuts great right after lapping it but it doesn't continue to cut the way the Norton does. I try to move up to the 400 as quickly as possible after the 220.

Interesting thought. I find the Norton 220 actually to be a hard stone, but a very granular stone with accounts for the breakdown and slurry formation. The Naniwa Super 220 (Resin Bond) and even the Shapton Glass 220 (Ceramic) function in a very similar manner and as indicated load up quickly. I usually try to go to the 1K after the 220.

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

Interesting thought. I find the Norton 220 actually to be a hard stone, but a very granular stone with accounts for the breakdown and slurry formation. The Naniwa Super 220 (Resin Bond) and even the Shapton Glass 220 (Ceramic) function in a very similar manner and as indicated load up quickly. I usually try to go to the 1K after the 220.

Lynn

"Interesting thought," code for wtf are you talking about? I have a difficult time with describing any hone as hard or soft, and it really doesn't make sense to do so. Granular is a much better description for the Norton.

I go to the 400 just because it gets me away from the loaded 220 faster. I of course only use either of those hones on blades that have significant damage. The real goal is to get to that fantastic Naniwa 1k as quickly as possible for the bevel setting.

DC, isnt the naniwa 150 the Omaru, not the superstones?

Originally Posted by Utopian

"Interesting thought," code for wtf are you talking about? I have a difficult time with describing any hone as hard or soft, and it really doesn't make sense to do so. Granular is a much better description for the Norton.

I go to the 400 just because it gets me away from the loaded 220 faster. I of course only use either of those hones on blades that have significant damage. The real goal is to get to that fantastic Naniwa 1k as quickly as possible for the bevel setting.

As one of our members says........Whatever...........

I agree with you on the description of a hone as hard. When I try to describe that I generally am talking about the feel of the hone against the razor. Some people describe this as feedback. There is nothing wrong with going to the 400. Some people use every hone in the rotation. I always feel that if something works for you and it's consistent, stick with it.

Have fun,

Lynn

My progression at the moment is 1k naniwa, bbw slurry , bbw water, coti slurry, coti water, 12k naniwa, cro ox on felt

From what some of you guys have said, am i missing something about the order i should be using them? The bbw is that in the right place.
I never thought to go back to bbw and coti after the 12k.
Is the jump from a 1k to a bbw slurry too much of a jump?

@the moment the only thing i need to hone is a bismarck full hollow round point which is my main shaver(wont have other blades ready for a few days.)

But one problem i am having with this progression is it doesnt seem to take a huge bevel, im taping the spine because of gold on the spine but its only one layer of electrical tape which shouldnt affect the angle too much.
I think that my progression might be too much, could be too many passes on the other stones after the naniwa 1k.

Anyway im a noob but my opinons on the naniwa are that they are great for what they are and the price they come at, my only criticism would be how long they may last. (does their softness mean they disappear quicker with lapping?)
As far as functionality for people who only have a few hones they seem to bookend the naturals very well.

+1 on the fast Cuting also, my 12k seems to accumulate nearly as much swarf as my 1k, i thought that was normal.

Best regards,
Greg

Originally Posted by GregJDS

My progression at the moment is 1k naniwa, bbw slurry , bbw water, coti slurry, coti water, 12k naniwa, cro ox on felt

From what some of you guys have said, am i missing something about the order i should be using them? The bbw is that in the right place.
I never thought to go back to bbw and coti after the 12k.
Is the jump from a 1k to a bbw slurry too much of a jump?

@the moment the only thing i need to hone is a bismarck full hollow round point which is my main shaver(wont have other blades ready for a few days.)

But one problem i am having with this progression is it doesnt seem to take a huge bevel, im taping the spine because of gold on the spine but its only one layer of electrical tape which shouldnt affect the angle too much.
I think that my progression might be too much, could be too many passes on the other stones after the naniwa 1k.

Anyway im a noob but my opinons on the naniwa are that they are great for what they are and the price they come at, my only criticism would be how long they may last. (does their softness mean they disappear quicker with lapping?)
As far as functionality for people who only have a few hones they seem to bookend the naturals very well.

+1 on the fast Cuting also, my 12k seems to accumulate nearly as much swarf as my 1k, i thought that was normal.

Best regards,
Greg

Hi Greg,

I would be interested if you tried your progression without the water on the bbw and coticule.

After the 1K, do enough strokes on the bbw with slurry to shave your forearm hair and then do 10-15 strokes on the Coticule with slurry followed by 10 strokes on the Naniwa Super 12K. Then 10 strokes on the chromium oxide, strop and test.

Thanks,

Lynn