Thread: Looking for Barber's Hone

Still looking =)

no luck yet, just just a friendly bump.

Hi MUI,

Just wondering, did you ever find what you were looking for?
I also am a bit confused; everybody seems to have their own opinions/preferences about what is best, and the TLA's (three letter abbreviations) are manifold.
I only wish to refresh my Dovo Stainless when it loses its edge and I am looking at a Belgian Blue Whetstone/Yellow Coticule combo. Can I expect success with just water and these, and then a plain canvas and leather strop?
Will I need to 'raise a slurry'? If so, how?
Is a 12k/15k hone a luxury I can indulge myself in later?

One more thing: when would you backhone?

Regards,
AD

Can also check out Ebay
- use "razor hone", "barber hone", "razor stone".

There are usually a few going at any time - not too expensive either. I picked up mine this way.

Before you buy do a search at SRP on 'barber hone' (see 'search' button at top) then click 'advanced search' - select hone section.
There will be a number of posts discussing barber / razor hones.

I like having mine - they're compact enough to leave in the bathroom for touch ups (safely in my razor box).

All the best,
Michael.

Originally Posted by adydye

Hi MUI,

Just wondering, did you ever find what you were looking for?
I also am a bit confused; everybody seems to have their own opinions/preferences about what is best, and the TLA's (three letter abbreviations) are manifold.
I only wish to refresh my Dovo Stainless when it loses its edge and I am looking at a Belgian Blue Whetstone/Yellow Coticule combo. Can I expect success with just water and these, and then a plain canvas and leather strop?
Will I need to 'raise a slurry'? If so, how?
Is a 12k/15k hone a luxury I can indulge myself in later?

One more thing: when would you backhone?

Regards,
AD

Ok this should help both you guys
the bbw/yellow coti combo will be more than up to the job, if you are on a budget just go with a yellow coti bout, there the cheaper ones with an irregular shape but they work just as well as a posh squarer one, to refresh a blade the yellow with just water is perfect, it will give you the sharpest smoothest edge that you could ever wish for (IMHO)
with a slurry the yellow will do everything from bevel correction down to almost shave ready, and a perfect progression is: yellow with slurry, bbw with slurry, yellow with water, linen strop, leather strop. thats what I do, and I get an edge that leaves nothing to be desired. nothing.

Dont bother with the bbs and just water, it is too fine to make any noticeable difference, but with a slurry it will give you a keener edge than a yellow coti.

A barbers hone is a lovely thing to own but its use is very limited, I am looking at one now, and if I get it I dont expect it to give me results that are any better than I get with my Coticules.

Check out the Honing section in the wiki Here and read Sir Barts Technique on A simple honing method with DMT-E, Belgian Blue Whetstone and Coticule This Guy is a Master at this, one of the most passionate guys on here, and a true Gentleman, His advice has saved me months of hard work and effort, oh yeah He is my friend too hahaha

Hope this Helps
Ralfy

You back stone when the razor is over honed. I just back stoned two razors a Boker and a Robeson. Both razors were restored from deep pits. Starting with a DMT 600, King 1200, Kind 4000/8000 pyramid. They were not evenly sharp. When this happens I back stone 4 strokes on my Apart and hone 8 strokes or until the thumb nail test gives a slight saw tooth feel. I then strop.
Has worked for me several times.

It's all starting to come together a bit more now!
I'm just reading Bart's guide which Ralfy recommended.

I'm thinking you don't have to reset the bevel [B]every[B] time you hone, and if that's the case, how do you tell when you need to reset the bevel?
AD

You reset the bevel when the razor is nicked or will not come sharp no matter how you try to touch it up.

Thank you jreiter22 - one more thing, I read that it is as well to protect the back/spine with insulating tape while honing (especially with a decorated razor). You would also use insulating tape to raise the spine to create an angle for the bevel; what if you only want to protect while touching up and not set the bevel?
AD

I use packaging tape on the spine when resetting an edge. The heavier tape with the strings in it. The black electrical tape I have makes more of a mess on the stones and does not stick to the blade as well. I also use the thinner tape on the 1200. I am restoring a lot of razors some have nicks as deep as the bevel. After forty razors I am beginning to understand Lynns advice. Keep your pressure on the blade low most of the pressure wares the spine not the edge. I use several layers of tape when removing deep nicks with circles on my coarse aluminum oxide stone. After the nicks are gone and the razor is knife sharp I go to the DMT 600 and reduce the layers of tape. After that to the 1200 king and then finish up on the 4000 8000. If you are not restoring nicked razors and keep your pressure to the weight of the razor you should not need to tape.