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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrsell63 View Post
    If you end up using cerium oxide to finish your razor edge, don't breathe the dust. It's not at all good for your lungs.
    Aha, I'll make sure I have a mask. Would a dust mask work? Or would I need a better quality filter?

  2. #12
    50 year str. shaver mrsell63's Avatar
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    Default Respirator

    I use a paper dust mask and make the outside surface wet to catch the airborn particles. Setting up a small electric fan behind you will send the dust away from you. The dust is quite visible. The MSDS sheet rates this dust as being a health hazard similar to diatemaceous earth.
    Be careful.

    Jerry
    JERRY
    OOOPS! Pass the styptic please.

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joundill View Post
    Aha, I'll make sure I have a mask. Would a dust mask work? Or would I need a better quality filter?
    With any abrasive dust is a hazard. Since most of us
    hone wet and shave wet there is little problem.

    Overheating steel can wreck the temper so grinding wet
    is almost always the right solution. Even with loose
    grit folks use water, wax, oil to keep the grit in place
    and things cool.

    However for those grinding or otherwise generating dust
    wear a dust mask and organize the work place with air flow
    that keeps you and other people safe. In a home shop that
    can be done with simple exhaust fans and baffles. In an industrial
    situation those fans may need to involve filters and scrubbers.
    Fine silica and other air born grit is at the heart of some
    nasty lung problems so caution is in order. Wood dust,
    and wood dust from exotic woods requires caution. As such
    most wood working shops and machine tool shops have masks
    at various price points. So use common sense.

    Since most of use work wet this is just not an issue.

  4. #14
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Carba-Tec in Auckland sells King stones but be sitting down when you see the price of the 8k. The 6k is reasonable, tho personally I wouldn't shave off 6k.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  5. #15
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    Looks like they may also sell coti bouts too! If so, I may have to snaffle me one up.
    And could this here be a translucent Arkansas I see?
    The prices are a bit steep, but nowhere near as steep as those of the King stones (I just about sh*t myself when I saw the cost of the 10k!)

  6. #16
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    They seem like a new line. Didn't have those last year IIRC.
    That Arkansas does look translucent but you'd best check before dropping the cash.
    Yep the IceBear 10k is clearly not a bargain.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  7. #17
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    I had a look at those hones and they're exactly what I'm looking for, I just need to decide on the grits and how fine to go now :P

  8. #18
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    I'd say get the 800 (grits listed there will almost certainly be JIS since these are Japanese stones, where 800 JIS is equal to a Norton 1K), 4k (equal to Norton 8K) and 8k (equivalent to Shapton 12K) if you're set on buying man-made hones - that'll take you from bevel setting to refining the edge to a nicely polished edge. If you're going to be removing a lot of metal ( e.g you buy old razors off TradeMe and restore them yourself) you might want to get a 300 as well for breadknifing frowns or nicks out on.

    Alternatively, get the 800 and 4k, and replace the 8K with one of the coti bouts I mentioned earlier - significantly cheaper, and they'll put a great final edge on a razor. The beauty of the coti is that with a slurry stone (check out the SRP classifieds - Zib sells some) you can take a razor from bevel setting the whole way to shave-ready, so you could even replace the 4K with the coti if you're really keen, as well as cutting out that gap in the progression (going 1K to 4K (Norton 1K to Norton 8K) is probably a bit of a leap, although I do know of members here who've done it with this brand of stones without much trouble - it's just a matter of taste and skill, I guess).

    They also have J-Nats there for $100 and a C12K for $70-ish if you want a finer finisher than a coti or 8K - personally I'd go for the J-Nat at the price. So you can either go 800, 4K, and finish off on a $200 8K, or spend the same amount and go 800, 4K, coti bout ($60 for a 40 sq cm or $100 for a 60 sq cm bout), and finish on that $100 J-Nat for what will almost certainly be a smoother final edge.

    I know what I'm wanting to buy now from there (may have to drop hints for that J-Nat for my birthday . . .)
    Last edited by mosley59; 01-07-2010 at 09:07 PM. Reason: spelling and comparing grits

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mosley59 View Post
    I'd say get the 800 (grits listed there will almost certainly be JIS since these are Japanese stones, where 800 JIS is equal to a Norton 1K), 4k (equal to Norton 8K) and 8k (equivalent to Shapton 12K) if you're set on buying man-made hones - that'll take you from bevel setting to refining the edge to a nicely polished edge. If you're going to be removing a lot of metal ( e.g you buy old razors off TradeMe and restore them yourself) you might want to get a 300 as well for breadknifing frowns or nicks out on.

    Alternatively, get the 800 and 4k, and replace the 8K with one of the coti bouts I mentioned earlier - significantly cheaper, and they'll put a great final edge on a razor. The beauty of the coti is that with a slurry stone (check out the SRP classifieds - Zib sells some) you can take a razor from bevel setting the whole way to shave-ready, so you could even replace the 4K with the coti if you're really keen, as well as cutting out that gap in the progression (going 1K to 4K (Norton 1K to Norton 8K) is probably a bit of a leap, although I do know of members here who've done it with this brand of stones without much trouble - it's just a matter of taste and skill, I guess).

    They also have J-Nats there for $100 and a C12K for $70-ish if you want a finer finisher than a coti or 8K - personally I'd go for the J-Nat at the price. So you can either go 800, 4K, and finish off on a $200 8K, or spend the same amount and go 800, 4K, coti bout ($60 for a 40 sq cm or $100 for a 60 sq cm bout), and finish on that $100 J-Nat for what will almost certainly be a smoother final edge.

    I know what I'm wanting to buy now from there (may have to drop hints for that J-Nat for my birthday . . .)
    Aha. My birthday is on the 22nd, but I'm doubting that anyone will go to the trouble of getting me a stone. I'm keeping my eye out for others and I'm planning on buying a couple of stones when I get a job.

  10. #20
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    And how old will sir be turning? If you buy youself a coti bout for now and use that with a slurry stone (using Bart's UniCot method, you can set bevels on a coti and refine and edge from there, simply with one stone and some water), I may have a King 4k (i.e one of the ones Carba-Tec sells) I can give you in early March when I get me some new hones (tossing up between a full set of Naniwas or a coti and a Shapton 1K). If I can't afford to buy new hones like I'm hoping to, you'll still have a decent finishing stone you can build on.

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