Thread: DMT 8C Break-in

I must apologize in advance because I know I've seen this here before, it's just that I couldn't find it.

I just received my new lapping stone, a DMT 8C 325 grit. Seems like it will do the trick very nicely, and also double as a hone for kitchen knives. As for the break-in is it correct that it is recommended (my members here) that you use something like a screwdriver shank to rub on the surface? If so for how much and for how long? When do you know that it is properly broken in and ready to use on your hones?

The reason why I ask is because no break-in instructions came from DMT.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan

Ryan, a screwdriver shank is what I use because it was the heaviest thing I had. A 12" Stanley. I put water on the plate with a couple of drops of dish soap and rub it down good and hard. I make sure to go over the edges for any divots that may be outstanding. That is for plates to hone razors. For lapping plates I'm not that aggressive as the waterstones will break the plate in.

So my 8C should be good to go and to start lapping? Is the break-in just reserved for finer grits like the 1200?

BTW Jimmy, I should have mentioned that I'm pretty sure it was one of your posts where I read a screwdriver was a good thing to use.

The first one I got was the D8C and I did the screwdriver thing after reading about breaking the plate in on the forum. If I had it to do over I probably wouldn't except for the edges. Sometimes there is a buildup of the diamond abrasive on a corner or an edge that might scratch a stone when lapping. If I was going to do any sharpening of knives or razors I would do the break in first. I've never done anything with my XX 120 grit but the edges and lap stones.

Just an update - I finally got around to using my DMT on my new Naniwa 12K. Knowing how soft those hones are I was surprised as hell at how long it took to lap with a new 8C. I'm guessing it was at least 10-15 min of labour under running water. I thought it would be easier for some reason. Good thing I lapped it too, it took off the rough surface, and it was nowhere near flat.

I used my DMT 325 for lapping a fair few hones before I used it on a razor, so it was pretty well broken in when I got to using it for that purpose.

Those Naniwas do take a long time to lap, I agree. Despite seeming like slightly softer hones, they actually took longer to lap than my Shaptons!

Originally Posted by Stubear

I used my DMT 325 for lapping a fair few hones before I used it on a razor, so it was pretty well broken in when I got to using it for that purpose.

Those Naniwas do take a long time to lap, I agree. Despite seeming like slightly softer hones, they actually took longer to lap than my Shaptons!

These posts make me question a little how I lap. I draw the pencil grids on the Naniwas and then lap under running water until the pencil lines are gone. I might do it a second time. Then I call it done. With my DMT 8c, this takes maybe 30 seconds. Am I doing it wrong?

Sounds perfectly right.

Super hard hones like barber hones can take a lot more than than some artificial waterstones... my swaty took a good couple of hours on a D6FC AND ultra coarse sandpaper. :|

Has anyone had a bad experience lapping a Swaty on a DMT 325?????
My 3 Line Swaty left a nasty brown stain on the 325. Since then, I lap the Swaty on a Carborundum stone.

Again, am I the only one with this experience?

Barber hones basically fall into three types when lapping

The Brown
The Grey
The Black
(Every now and then rarely, The Green)

They all leave a stain, Comet or the like with a striff bristle brush cleans the plate right up, so does the next stone