Thread: Low Grit recommendations?

I only go to lower than 1k if a lot of work is needed.
I have 600 chosera, 1k Norton, both work great. Sometimes I use my already pretty warn off DMt 325, and it works very well.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I really think anything under 1k or so, is in the realm of restoration not honing...

DMT 325 will do all that, and keep things straight, I would imagine a 600 would do just fine also, but have never used one, since I have the 325 for lapping anyway...

Good point Glen, I wasn't clear about that... I don't really go below 600, but I only really use the 600 if there are chips, or I need to do some serious work to get the bevel going.

For honing, I start at my 1.2k diamond plate

Dave I bet after all the barber hones and stones I have lapped my 325 is more a 575 now anyway hehehehe

If that was a strop it'd be stamped "Broke In"

Originally Posted by ShavedZombie

So, I've seen a lot of references to low grit stones to aid bevel resets on full restores (from 200 - 600 grit, generally)
....snip....
I spend a decent amount of time trying to reestablish bevels
...snip...
I've seen recommendations on both the Naniwa 400, and the Shapton 500, along with the DMT600... Anyone have advice on a specific one, and a reason for that one?

Thanks!
Jeremy

For bevel setting when it is totally gone a DMT can be a good thing.
It is always flat and true.

They are a bit harsh and other hones from 1000 and finer seem
to be better at but when the bevel is gone DMT with tape
to protect the spine has worked well for me. Once I am done with
the DMT I discard the tape.

Once the edge is true and the bevel well set I have even
had luck continuing with an old swayback 1K followed by well
a lapped 4K/8K Norton.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Dave I bet after all the barber hones and stones I have lapped my 325 is more a 575 now anyway hehehehe

Ha ha.. I have zero doubt about that!

Originally Posted by ShavedZombie

... I have a full range of naniwas, the 1k (fairly worn out... About 1/3 of the stone left... I'm an obsessive Lapper), and the 5, 8, and 12k (all of them with about 3/4-4/5 of the stone left)

Well, Considering how often I use greaseless, or a lot of time on regular wheels, I spend a decent amount of time trying to reestablish bevels ... I'd like a lower grit hone to help with the razors that take a trip to greaseless.

Jeremy

Sorry Jeremy but someone has to say it. It's not the tools you are using but the skill of the person using them. As stated above, it is very rare for most of us to use a hone under 1k to set a bevel even after buffing with greaseless compounds. Also, for the amount of time you have been honing, even with a lot of lapping, I can't understand why your hones are so worn down! The hones you are using will sharpen thousands of razors and your count has to be under 50. How much metal are you removing from your razors?!

Seriously, you should stop what you are doing (and read between the lines) , re-evaluate your technique and only work on razors that are too far gone to be usable until you can achieve your goals w/ minimal metal removal which includes setting the bevel w/ a 1k hone.

This post is not only directed to the OP but to anyone having similar issues.

I'd just use your 325 DMT.

You dont need to keep it exclusively for lapping, it'll work great for both uses. In fact after its been used for lapping the stone softens a litten bit, and then it becomes a really great edge repairer. When I first got mine it was pretty aggressive, but using it as a lapping plate has really helped mellow it out. It doesnt chew the edge up and it works chips out in no time.

Then I just go from there onto either 1k Naniwa or Shapton. Works great!

I do question how much you're lapping though. I've honed a fair few razors on my hones and they look like they've been hardly used.

After the initial lapping with the pencil grid to get them flat I just lap before each honing session or once the stone starts to glaze. Second and subsequent lappings consist of a couple of light figure 8's under running water and thats plenty to clean and refresh the face of the hone.

If you've worn away that much of your 1k it sounds like you're lapping far too much, far too often or both.

EDIT: Joe beat me to it..! So yes, what Joe said!

I personally don't see anything wrong with dropping below 1k on an edge that has had its bevel completely eliminated. I ALWAYS start with the 1k and then look at the bevel formation under a scope. If steel removal is progressing well, then I'll stick with the 1k, but if removal is slow, then I see nothing wrong with dropping down lower. As you are cutting the bevel, it grows toward the edge to eventually form a perfect "V." If the bevel is relatively far from the edge then I see nothing wrong with speeding up the process with something below 1k. Any sub-1k scratches are eliminated by the time the steel removal has progress all the way to the edge anyway.

Thanks, everyone, for your replies...

I've decided that I'll stick with 1k for now, and practice. If I find use for a lower grit hone, I'll probably go for the DMT 600.

As to how my hone is worn out... I lap way way way too much... I've stopped doing it lately, but for the last few months, I'll give it a few minutes of lapping before use, and a minute or two of lapping after use, in 3-5 razor sessions (lapped before/after every razor).

In hindsight, I don't know why I did that, and I know that it's overdoing it, so I've stopped. But, that's how it happened.