Thread: suita woes

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Hi Stefan,

If you have never tried these little gems for slurry stones, they are my favorite for fine hones. There size is just about the same size as the rubbers that use to come with stones. They do not stick and conserve hone. Dia-Sharp Diamond Mini-Hone Kit

I wish I knew how to do that "here" trick.
Mike

I've been using the same size/type from ezy-lap.
They're a wicked chamfering tool as well.
I've also rough-lapped very old grungy/scored stones with these with a lot of success.



ed

Originally Posted by Thylacine

I've been using the same size/type from ezy-lap.
They're a wicked chamfering tool as well.
I've also rough-lapped very old grungy/scored stones with these with a lot of success.



ed

I take out the big boy DMTs for lapping and restoring but it sounds like you are getting the job done fine. You hear talk now and then that the friable diamonds break off easier on non DMT products than the patented moncrystal DMT. Do you ever feel them when honing?
Just for kicks I tried a knock off Ultra which has the same polycrystal diamonds as the EZlap and it is wicked fast for moving metal and has held up to incredible abuse.

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

Jason
Be patient with the stone. i think it seems like problem could be your DMT or honing.
It may be very well as you mention metal coming out of the blade.
you are trying to do perfect job and hone until edge start to break down.

I don't think you have this problem but i think you hone so much final edge gets so weak and it brakes.
In the other hand sorry to say You don't know when to stop.
hope this helps.

Thanks guys,

I ordered the credit card size dmt ef,f,and course hones. I am sure that my honing skills leave lots to be desired so far, and I am somewhat a perfectionist so I could be honing until the edge breaks down or atleast the wire edge is breaking away . I figured that I would be safe on a 30k+ grit hone to spend some time without worrying about overhoning, since Glen(gssixgun) claims one has to try hard to overhone a razor.

You dont need to be sorry to tell me anything, , I just keep honing until the razor will shave.

This particular razor was used for a few months, and refreshed with crox quite a few times. I decided to try the one stone slurry method of sharpening. I started with an Iyo nagura, went to a solid white nagura, then finished with a slurry raised from the stone. Each level I went from a pretty heavy slurry to almost non-existent, then moved to the next slurry. From start to finish was about one hour, including stopping to check the edge. I thought it was the slurry that was causing the trouble at first, I was told not to use foreign slurries on this stone due to the chance of contaminating with lower grit, but my problem is always after honing for a bit, after the nagura slurry has been used for a while and is quite broken down. If it was the fault of the nagura, I would think the problem would show up at first while the grit hadnt been broken down at all, or I guess at first the edge is thick so maybe the problem doesnt show up till the edge gets thin enough.

If the problem occurs after a while I'd say your edge is breaking down or the slurry is not dealing with the amount of swarf created.
Just bear in mind if you do break off bits of edge they will be much bigger than the slurry particles & feel like honing on gravel.

Originally Posted by Jasongreat

Thanks guys,

I ordered the credit card size dmt ef,f,and course hones. I am sure that my honing skills leave lots to be desired so far, and I am somewhat a perfectionist so I could be honing until the edge breaks down or atleast the wire edge is breaking away . I figured that I would be safe on a 30k+ grit hone to spend some time without worrying about overhoning, since Glen(gssixgun) claims one has to try hard to overhone a razor.

You dont need to be sorry to tell me anything, , I just keep honing until the razor will shave.

This particular razor was used for a few months, and refreshed with crox quite a few times. I decided to try the one stone slurry method of sharpening. I started with an Iyo nagura, went to a solid white nagura, then finished with a slurry raised from the stone. Each level I went from a pretty heavy slurry to almost non-existent, then moved to the next slurry. From start to finish was about one hour, including stopping to check the edge. I thought it was the slurry that was causing the trouble at first, I was told not to use foreign slurries on this stone due to the chance of contaminating with lower grit, but my problem is always after honing for a bit, after the nagura slurry has been used for a while and is quite broken down. If it was the fault of the nagura, I would think the problem would show up at first while the grit hadnt been broken down at all, or I guess at first the edge is thick so maybe the problem doesnt show up till the edge gets thin enough.

How prone is your suita to self slurrying? What about if knife polishing with a bit of pressure? Sometimes it is easier to evaluate the true nature of the stone with a patina'd knife, than easy light razor honing.

Could you reset this bevel on synthetics (say from a lightly jointed edge) and bring it up to 8 k; then use the suita with water only?

Using nagura and slurry as you have is a real pain. Too many variables and things to chase if the result is off. Especially because often the finish stone can cut faster on its own than with some ole pasty nagura clogging it up. I would also be surprised if you have chunks of steel in the mix. Especially if yours is a very fine stone. any teeny weeny bur you might raise is wiped off when you turn the blade. It is very very(very) difficult to turn a perceptible bur with a fine Jnat even when trying to.

If there's a lot of steel swarf in your slurry wash it off. Gunk can sink into the su then be sucked out as you vacuum the edge over the surface. (the holes seem fewer because after lapping the are full of slurry, when you go to honing they will reappear -unless they really are gone) and of course best of luck.

Originally Posted by Jasongreat

Thanks guys,

I ordered the credit card size dmt ef,f,and course hones. I am sure that my honing skills leave lots to be desired so far, and I am somewhat a perfectionist so I could be honing until the edge breaks down or atleast the wire edge is breaking away . I figured that I would be safe on a 30k+ grit hone to spend some time without worrying about overhoning, since Glen(gssixgun) claims one has to try hard to overhone a razor.

You dont need to be sorry to tell me anything, , I just keep honing until the razor will shave.

This particular razor was used for a few months, and refreshed with crox quite a few times. I decided to try the one stone slurry method of sharpening. I started with an Iyo nagura, went to a solid white nagura, then finished with a slurry raised from the stone. Each level I went from a pretty heavy slurry to almost non-existent, then moved to the next slurry. From start to finish was about one hour, including stopping to check the edge. I thought it was the slurry that was causing the trouble at first, I was told not to use foreign slurries on this stone due to the chance of contaminating with lower grit, but my problem is always after honing for a bit, after the nagura slurry has been used for a while and is quite broken down. If it was the fault of the nagura, I would think the problem would show up at first while the grit hadnt been broken down at all, or I guess at first the edge is thick so maybe the problem doesnt show up till the edge gets thin enough.

I use a Suita quite a bit. I have a piece of suita to use as a Tomonagura. So I have no problems raising pure Suita slurry.

The guy at Japanblade recommends that you do not use coarser true nagura on Suita, as the particles get caught in the Su and then affect the honing later in the process. This basically makes the Suita a pure finishing hone.

I do my coarse work on an Asagi (with nagura) and then finish on the Suita with a slurry raised with a suita piece. There are a few Su that are present on my honing surface. They have not interfered with my edge.

It should only take a few minutes on the Suita to finish off an edge.

This is, of course, based on my own experience, and may differ for other people.