Thread: QUESTION: Size wise, what is the perfect shape and size hone?

Ya know I have used just about every sized hone you can imagine from the little tiny 4x1.5 inches to the huge 10x4's and everything inbetween...
Even went so far as to cut down a set of Nortons for the same reason that Russ just mentioned, stiil have them, 8x1.5 just for warped wedges was my theory...

But truthfully the size just really doesn't matter, as you adapt your stoke, to suit the job at hand, with the hone at hand...
I wouldn't even say some are easier to use, if you learned on 8x3 then you are more comfortable with larger hones, and the reverse is true if you learned on Barber's hones...

Such as the theory of thinner hones for smiling and warped edges, I can tell you from somebody that actually went through the trouble of cutting hones, smoothing the edges, and lapping them perfect, that they work no better then their 8x3 big brothers...

So as the old song says "If you can't be with the one you love, Love the one your with" it applies to hones too...

I know you are going to think of all sorts of reasons why things should work better or worse, but really as long as you can get a smooth even stroke, all is good...

In rare occurrence I have found a narrow hone to fit the need better than the wider hones, but it is rare. Longer hones relates to less strokes but I am not sure the price point is justified once you go over 8 inches. The best size hones are the one's that fit your budget best. If money is no object go with what you are comfortable with. Hones larger than other in width and/or length may require more time on a lap than it's smaller cousins. Learn to work with what you have or can afford. It's not the tool that sets the quality in hand work such as honing, it the person using the tool. The rest is a matter of time at task.

I personally have found my preference to be in the width of the stone rather than length. That magic number for me is ~2"-2.5". Two reasons:

1. It's a good size to use on table or in the palm of your hand (at least the 2"-er is)
2. Since most blades I have are ~3" (give or take), then 2" would ensure that at least 2/3 of the blade is in constant contact with the stone, at least initially, at the beginning of each stroke...once the stroke is initiated, it doesn't matter...muscle memory keeps the blade at correct contact with stone at the part of the X-stroke which covers <2/3 of the blade.

Maybe these will be less of an issue as I become more experienced in honing (hopefully in the next 100 years )

I prefer an 8x3" That allows me to hone the entire blade w/o using any stroke other than a straight back or straight forward, but I can use other patterns if I wish.