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  1. #1
    Junior Member RonPopeil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan82 View Post
    Hey Ron,

    First of all stop cutting paper with your razor as a test of it's sharpness. As a rule it shouldn't be used to cut anything other than hair.

    Next, the truth is you don't really need anything higher than 8k to get a comfortable shave. Anything higher is just icing on the cake. Above and beyond the 8k level your cheapest options would include:
    -Barber hone
    -Chinese 12k
    -Pastes

    You'll need a lapping stone to flatten your hones as well. You may also consider sending out your razor to be professionally honed - then all you need to worry about is touching up the edge every now and then.

    Cheers,

    Ryan
    thanks for the advice on the paper test

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    I agree with Ryan. If you want to pursue honing a lot of old razors for the fun of it the Norton 220/1k and 4/8 combos will be fine. Add a DMT D8C continuous diamond plate for lapping and that is all that you really need. Wet and dry 325 or so sandpaper on a flat surface can take the place of the diamond plate. If you stick with it the plate will be worth the price.
    well it wouldn't just be for fun. i'd like to get into restoring some of my antique store finds. razors seem to be fairly simple devices so restoring them shouldn't be all that complicated. i've come to this conclusion after perusing the wiki. i guess you could consider my interest as a developing hobby restorer.

    how do i know which stone to take the edge down to? my impression was that under 4k would be to bring a completely dead or damaged edge into a bevel and then sharpening takes place. at the moment i stay away from damaged edges and opt for things with damaged scales or minor cleaning duties required. if i could bring back some damaged edges that would greatly increase the amount of razors i could purchase.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonPopeil View Post
    how do i know which stone to take the edge down to? my impression was that under 4k would be to bring a completely dead or damaged edge into a bevel and then sharpening takes place. at the moment i stay away from damaged edges and opt for things with damaged scales or minor cleaning duties required. if i could bring back some damaged edges that would greatly increase the amount of razors i could purchase.
    It depends on the condition of the edge. IME vintage ebay and/or antique shop razors frequently have micro chipping or worse. Sometimes it is visible to the naked eye and sometimes it is not. Often an eye loupe or microscope is the best way to assess the condition of the edge and decide what to proceed with. A bevel can be set with a 4k but it is a lot faster with a 1k. If you are buying these vintage pieces you will learn through experience how to judge which hone to begin with and when to move on to the next grit. I said fun because I find it to be an enjoyable pursuit. Honing that is. I do it when I want to and I don't do it unless I want to so it is still fun for me. If I was under the gun honing to a deadline for a customer I might not find it so. Dunno.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  3. #3
    Junior Member RonPopeil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    It depends on the condition of the edge. IME vintage ebay and/or antique shop razors frequently have micro chipping or worse. Sometimes it is visible to the naked eye and sometimes it is not. Often an eye loupe or microscope is the best way to assess the condition of the edge and decide what to proceed with. A bevel can be set with a 4k but it is a lot faster with a 1k. If you are buying these vintage pieces you will learn through experience how to judge which hone to begin with and when to move on to the next grit. I said fun because I find it to be an enjoyable pursuit. Honing that is. I do it when I want to and I don't do it unless I want to so it is still fun for me. If I was under the gun honing to a deadline for a customer I might not find it so. Dunno.
    i see. i suppose i'll grab a couple norton combo stones and an off name "antique" razor and get to it rather than take my W&B straight to the stones.

    http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Wa...it-P94C18.aspx

    good idea?
    Last edited by RonPopeil; 09-08-2010 at 08:27 PM.

  4. #4
    Shaving Monk CJBianco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Get the two combo stones and the DMT D8C 325 to lap them. The norton lapping stone is nowhere near as good and will need to be flattened itself soon if not right away.
    I agree, one of the best investments I've made is the DMT 220/325 combination. The 325 is perfect for waterstones, and the 220 laughs in the faces of hard ceramic barber hones. (Which I then finish with a few quick passes on the 325 side.) Life is good with DMT.

    Me =)

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonPopeil View Post
    would the DMT be useful down the road if i upgraded stones to something like the shapton stones or naniwa SS?
    Absolutely. It is great for lapping any waterstones. (except for the 220) Best accomplished in the sink with a trickle of water running down on the work. Here is a tutorial Josh Earl did on lapping awhile back. Also a good kitchen knife sharpener.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  6. #6
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    +1 with Jimmy. Though you could get away with using the Norton flattening stone (if using Norton products exclusively), the DMT 8C is one of the most versatile hones you can buy, and a great investment. My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner.

  7. #7
    Senior Member jeffegg2's Avatar
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    Cool

    I see there is also a DMT 6" 325. Wouldn't that work nearly as good as the 8"?

  8. #8
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    The six is as good as the eight(its the same grit) but will take more work, also I myself believe the eight is a tad better for flattening because it is closer to the size of the water stone and will not follow the "dish" that you are trying to flatten.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

  9. #9
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    A suggestion:

    Rather than stones, use sandpaper (available down to 2000 grit), microabrasive sheets, and pastes.

    You can buy those materials for less than a decent stone -- SiCarbide "wet-or-dry" sandpaper costs about $1/sheet, retail. In the long run, stones may be cheaper. But you may be dead before then.

    There's a good piece on the Wiki about this:

    Using micro abrasive film - Straight Razor Place Wiki

    Charles

  10. #10
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    I agree with Jeffegg2. Buy a barber's hone. Used properly, with proper stropping, your razor will keep a keen edge for a long time. When you think you need to, send it off to a honemeister for a new edge. Honing yourself only leads to time, trouble, and expense! (HAD)! Don't succumb to HAD, and better if you avoid straight razor forums. HAD leads to RAD, and that can be nearly fatal.

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