Thread: Lapping Naniwa 12k

I cannot speak for the Norton lapping stone but I can speak for the Naniwa lapping stones. Kinda the same in appearance.

With the Naniwa lapping stone there are burs on the edges you should be aware of that need to be filed off. Those little burs, pebbles, tend to fall off as they become wet. They are very small grains and when introduced to the hone during lapping all you feel is a slight tug and nice little scratching sound. Once I filed off the burs, it works fine but does not lap nearly as nice as the DMT325 or Shapton DGLP.

This is just a personal experience and does not reflect the overall quality of any Naniwa lapping stone. What takes me 10 minutes on a DMT325 takes 2x or more using the Naniwa lapping stone. Even at that, I still feel and this is just personal, the Naniwa leaves me with a not so flat surface on the hone.

Here are some pics of my Naniwa lapping stone and my Naniwa 220 after a bur dislodged during the first lapping.

Please note, if you look close in the middle in the distance you can see a bur. This lapping plate pic was taken after I filed down one side of the lapping plate.

Again, this is just a personal experience and as a personal recommendation, please use a DMT325.

the DMT 325 is my favorite plate to lap hone with and I would get a replacement in a heartbeat if somehow I lost the one I have. Make sure you round the edges of the Naniwa when you lap and also make sure you lap it lightly every time you're going to use the hone so it stays clean. ]


Enjoy it its awesome.

I would not hestitate with the dmt 325 on fine stones, too. It gives very good results.
But the DMT should be worked in first. I did this with an old hard tool.
I just rubbed it ("sharpened it") several times (took me 20 minutes) and the DMT was ready to go.
But I recommend you to test the flatness of the stone before you do anything with it.
It may happen you are one of the unfortunate guys whose DMT is out of whack.
Verify it with something flat. My DMT 325 was despite tiny waviness very flat.
Unfortunately I had a little "spot" on one corner of my DMT.
The corners should be worked in especially well, because of high spots.
One of the corners of mine had a very big chunk of metal/synth. diamond sitcking out a little bit,
wich gave me a scratch.

I chamfered the edge of the DMT with 320 grit sandpaper slightly,
like I would do with normal waterstones. That helped.
Otherwise such action won´t be necessary prior to use

Have fun with your Naniwa and DMT

Would the DMT 325 be the preferred flattening stone for a Naniwa 1000 as well or would a more coarse DMT such as the 220 or 120 be needed?

Also is it not advisable to use a Norton flattening stone on the 1000?

Another +1 for the DMT 325 here. Thats a really great versatile stone!

I use that one stone to lap everything from 1k Shapton and Naniwa's up to high end finishers like Charnley Forest and Nakayama Maruichi. It works great on all of them.

Good Deal. i just ordered the DMT D8C 325. Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The DMT325 is good down to a Naniwa 400 IME I would not go to low with it, because the lower grit can rip diamonds loose from the metal

I'm really not trying to be petty here, but just so people understand...
What happens is that the larger grit of the lower grit hones can extend beyond the diamonds to undercut the metal holding the diamonds in place, so the lower grip rips the metal from the diamonds, not the other way around.

I don't have the technical explanation, but the Norton plate is not as grainey as the stuff on the Naniwa plates and it gunks up on a Naniwa. The Naniwa plates work find for the Naniwa's and the Norton plates work fine on the Norton. The GDLP is the best for all around, but expensive. The DMT is the next best all around solution, but because it doesn't have the grooving the GDLP has you have to keep it under running water on the higher grit Naniwa's so they stick to each other less. I have never been a sandpaper fan, so not much for me to comment on there.

Have fun,

Lynn

I recieved my Naniwa 12K and DMT 325. I took an old crappy knife that would not take an edge and spent some time honing (more like rubbing) it all over the surface of the DMT. After that I did my pencil grid on the Naniwa and proceded to lap it. Worked like a dream, took about ten minutes under running water ant the grid was gone. Re-drew the grid and lapped a second time, took about a minute. I think I really like my DMT.

Danricgro,

After many moons of using carbide paper etc, I was amazed at how quicker and cleaner using the DMT325 was

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ