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Thread: How to use Coticule.
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11-12-2010, 02:27 AM #1
we are not talking about setting bevel.
if you check op i mention with slurry stone will cut faster.
Any single coticule will make slurry after maximum of 30 strokes.
We are talking about end result.
It's hard to say though, as I kept clearing the hone with water.
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11-12-2010, 02:34 AM #2
Well, in that case, I haven't seen anyone talking about using slurry on a coti after coming off something like an 8k, so I'm not sure what problem your first post is addressing. I was under the impression that the guys using slurry are setting bevels or going from a 1k to shave ready.
Also, not all coticules will make slurry on their own with 30 strokes, or even 50 or 100. I keep one hard, fine one to use as a finisher, and it does not produce any slurry on its own.
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11-12-2010, 02:54 AM #3
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11-12-2010, 03:17 AM #4
Yes, I am sure that my coticule will not release any slurry after 30, 50, or 100 strokes on it. If I want a slurry, I use a slurry stone.
I'm sure that all coticules could set the bevel and finish the edge, but it would take varying amounts of time. Just like you could set a bevel with a (choose any finishing stone), if you are willing to do thousands of strokes.
Yes, I do think one stone honing has problems. In my opinion, it's a waste of time and highly inconsistent.
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11-12-2010, 03:56 AM #5
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Thanked: 488I wanted to post that link to the old methods since most of us agree we have lost most material and methods from that time period. This little booklet gives us some knowledge to use and to compare with current methods some folks use.
I don't know if anyone noticed but the man who wrote this booklet had 30 years experience when he published this so I'm giving him credit for knowing a great deal since we are using the very old razors that were in everyday use at that time. So the fact it was written in 1893 has no bearing on the information relevance today. He also seems to have a great deal of experience with hones of all types. Some may have names unlike those we use now but it's not difficult to figure out what he is referring to as far as types of hones and the best use of same.
I got a lot of information from his comments on razor temper as well as shape. It made me think much more about the temper and shape related to honing and the kind of edge you can expect.
Bottom line keep an open mind, try things for yourself and draw your own conclusions based on those two statements and the information presented.
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11-12-2010, 04:11 AM #6
You're preaching to the choir, buddy: The Library
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The Following User Says Thank You to wdwrx For This Useful Post:
Gunner777 (11-12-2010)
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11-12-2010, 03:23 AM #7
I also thought you meant starting with bevel-setting. I'd like to try this, but I don't understand yet.
If you don't mind, would you please say it again real plainly for us slow folks?
Like:
For taking blade at (some level) and producing result of (some level),
it's better (or faster?) to use (some method).
etc.
Thanks!
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11-12-2010, 03:42 AM #8
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11-12-2010, 03:43 AM #9
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11-12-2010, 03:48 AM #10
Myself I like to keep an open mind on honing. IOW, it ain't carved in stone, if you'll pardon the pun. There are those who like to use slurry and those who do not. With synthetics some use pyramids others progressive honing. It is cool to have these different methods presented so that we can try them for ourselves and see what works for us. Out of the trial and error we develop our own preferences.
Matter of fact, I like to use slurry on an Escher while I know for a fact that Lynn does not , nor does Tim Zowada. I've been known to use slurry on some coticules and dilute as I go while I prefer plain water on certain other prized coticules. So it is, like a lot of this stuff, a matter of personal preference IMO. Whatever gets your razor shaving close and smooth.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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