Thread: Fine honing stone choice question...

Hi,

Fairly new to the practice of honing.

By now, I have a good basic set-up; Norton waterstones in 1k, 4k, and 8k, and a nice, wide, well-conditioned leather-strop. I've looked at the honing how-tos here and elsewhere, and think I understand the basics. I also think I'm missing a fine honing stone in my collection, which explains why that perfect edge is being so darn elusive.

Now, from what I read here, good choices for the fine stone are the Thuringian, the Escher, and the Naniwa (10 or 12k). I have identified a source for the T & (gray-green) E, and one for the N.

Question is which one, or do I need a combination of two ? I'm trying to achieve the finest edge possible, for a super-smooth shave. I'm leaning towards the Naniwa, partially for cost (at $80, it's about $40 less than the others), but also, if I'm reading correctly, it's used without slurry, which seems just a little simpler. Would appreciate any input from the experts. Thanks!

To be perfectly honest, it doesn't matter much. How much do you want to spend?

Until you can get a good shave off your 8K, none of the above are really going to help much anyway, and then the choice will provide such insignificantly different edges it really won't matter. For that matter, you can get away with a 8k with a paste or no paste or whatever you want.

If you can find a true Escher for $120, buy it and sell it on eBay. You'll be happy with the result most likely...

Originally Posted by richmondesi

To be perfectly honest, it doesn't matter much. How much do you want to spend?

Until you can get a good shave off your 8K, none of the above are really going to help much anyway, and then the choice will provide such insignificantly different edges it really won't matter. For that matter, you can get away with a 8k with a paste or no paste or whatever you want.

If you can find a true Escher for $120, buy it and sell it on eBay. You'll be happy with the result most likely...

Thanks for the straight answer, good to know that it's more of a software problem, not a hardware issue! I'll keep working with the 4/8k until I get it right (just discovered a great vid by gssixgun).

Nevertheless, it seems there is quite a bit of discussion here and elsewhere about these fine stones. Are they just the icing on the cake of a good edge?

90% of successful honing (if not more) is done at the bevel setting stage, and by the time you get off your 8K, you should be getting a great shave. In fact, it was THE stone that everyone was shaving off of not long ago.

Yes, the finer grit stones are nice, but they aren't necessary. That's why I say get whichever one appeals to you, and if you are so inclined, you could be set and never buy another hone again.

Originally Posted by richmondesi

90% of successful honing (if not more) is done at the bevel setting stage, and by the time you get off your 8K, you should be getting a great shave. In fact, it was THE stone that everyone was shaving off of not long ago.

Yes, the finer grit stones are nice, but they aren't necessary. That's why I say get whichever one appeals to you, and if you are so inclined, you could be set and never buy another hone again.

Oh So True +1 with Paul

Learn the 8k, then and only then branch out, also by then you most likely won't need our opinions on which one LOL

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Oh So True +1 with Paul

Learn the 8k, then and only then branch out, also by then you most likely won't need our opinions on which one LOL

Cool. I must say your video on the use of the 4/8k stone has been the best and most informative I've seen so far. Details that I had not gleaned from other videos (on Youtube, not here) were how the stone really needs to be lapped, and to use a Nogura for making slurry with which to set the bevel. I now have a lapping stone on order (the Norton, didn't want to spend on the DMT), and a small Nogura.

One question: Is the Norton 1k stone preferable for setting the bezel, and do you need to rub up slurry on it as well?

1k Norton is a perfect bevel setter, and what everyone above said is important; the real sharpening is done at bevel-setting. If you don't set a good edge at 1k, all the rest is wasted time.

I agree with everything Paul's said (but I'm not nearly as experienced as him).

If I could get an Escher for 120 and it was a decent size (not one of those 1 inch by 5 inch Thuringians), I definitely would get that over a Naniwa. I can't say I like the edge better, because I haven't tried a Naniwa 12k edge, so the reason I'd take the Escher is more about value (which is a tricky subject) and collectibility. I think the Naniwa's value will drop after you've used it a bit. The value of an Escher is much more than 120 USD IMO.

Hi there,

Be wary of the new-stock Thuringians on the market now. Apparently they are not as fine as many of the labeled vintage ones (Droescher, etc.)

There has been a lot of discussion about them. I think if you search the forum for "new Thuringian" or even just "Thuringian" you'll find some more opinions.

Originally Posted by roughkype

Hi there,

Be wary of the new-stock Thuringians on the market now. Apparently they are not as fine as many of the labeled vintage ones (Droescher, etc.)

There has been a lot of discussion about them. I think if you search the forum for "new Thuringian" or even just "Thuringian" you'll find some more opinions.

This is true, the NEW thuringian stones that are being sold don't seem like Thuringians at all and are rough feeling, I say they are about 6K if that. I have one and I never use it because it's just not what it should be.

The old thuringian stones are where it's at.

If you want a finisher after practicing on the 8K for a while there is a bunch of affordable options out there, Chinese 12K is one of them.