Thread: New to honing...several questions...

Hello, gentlemen!
I haven't posted here for a while, but was hoping you could help me with some advice. I've been enjoying my straight razors for a while, but now it's getting time to hone them. So I've been reading here while looking online for stones, and now have a few questions.
I have a razor which has a chip in the blade (hit the tap while rinsing), and being my least expensive razor, and already damaged, I plan to start learning with it. So basically, I'm looking to remove metal, then set a bevel, sharpen, and finish. From repair all the way up to shaving with it again.
My questions are: Would a Norton 220/1k stone, a Norton 4k/8k stone, and a Chinese 12k finishing stone be a good choice to take me from repair to finishing? Would it be not enough, just enough, or too much? If not enough, what more would I need (for instance, would I need a prep stone for slurry)? If too much, what could I do without?
Also, is it necessary after a progression like the one above to use pasted strops? If so, what would you recommend?
I'm looking to make the process as painless as possible and to also set my self up with proper equipment for the future. So any advice is both needed and truly appreciated.
Thank you in advance...and may life find you not only well, but well-shaven!

Originally Posted by DevilBlade

Would a Norton 220/1k stone, a Norton 4k/8k stone, and a Chinese 12k finishing stone be a good choice to take me from repair to finishing?

Absolutely.
The only other thing you'll need is something to lap the stones flat. You can use sandpaper on a flat surface, or get another stone for lapping.

As for honing out your chip, you might be better served to "start small and work big". In other words, it might be better to learn honing on a razor that gives you a better chance of being successful, and tackle the one with the nasty chip when you have a little more experience and confidence.

Good luck!

For an all around set up it can't be beat,,, You can go from e-bay junk to shave ready plus with that set up

I would only add a DMT 325 for lapping, it is priceless hehehe
A pasted strop is another add if you want, some do some don't... You can try pastes on Balsa/Newspaper until you find the one you like...

The setup you've mentioned should do you just fine..in fact be more than enough. My first hone was a Norton 4/8k combo and I even used it to fix a chip once. it took awhile but it worked. The 1k makes things alot easier for bevel setting and the 220 is basically just for doing repairs or restore work. The 12k is a good final polisher or finisher but you can shave off of the 8k. Pasted strops are great for that final polish and maintaining the edge for a little longer between honings. Hope this helps

Thank you very much for your replies guys. It's nice to know there's support here.

I think I'll take your advice, HNSB, about trying honing before trying repair. I need to get the hang of the simple before trying the complex.

Not too sure about getting a DMT 325 yet, though...maybe in the future.

Again, thanks for your advice. I'll let you know how things go when I can finally try my hand at it.

Even if you don't get the DMT325, you need something to lap your stones with. Quality wet/dry sandpaper on flat surface (granite or glass or the like) can work, but the DMT is, IMO, much easier to use and it WILL save you money in the long run. The stones NEED to be lapped before the first time you use them and periodically thereafter.

Ah, yes, thank you. I had been planning on going the sandpaper route for the first try. Any recommendations on grit for the sandpaper?

Also, which side, the 8k or 4k, is it actually necessary to remove the top 1/8" or so from?

where do's one find a DMT 325? I sort of get by with my basic stones but have never lapped them.

You really need to lap your stones, see my topic on glass plate. You and get a piece quite inexpensive, add some stick on rubber feet from the hardware store and lap your stones. Mine were not even flat when new so if you have used yours and not cleaned them between. You really should

Originally Posted by DevilBlade

Ah, yes, thank you. I had been planning on going the sandpaper route for the first try. Any recommendations on grit for the sandpaper?

Also, which side, the 8k or 4k, is it actually necessary to remove the top 1/8" or so from?

Sandpaper....start with 320 grit until the stone is flat, then use 500 followed by 1000 grit to provide a nice texture to hone on.
Look in the Wiki for Lapping 101, it is a very good guide. Be sure to gently round the edges of the hone after lapping. This will help prevent microchipping of the edge.

Which side....generally it is the 4K side that MIGHT need removal. But that's only if you can see small pinholes in the hone or if grit from the 320 becomes embedded in the 4K. You only lap until the pinholes are gone and the hone is flat. Taking off 1/8" is an extreme.

Use wet/dry sandpaper and use it wet. DO NOT USE A LOT OF PRESSURE! That will cause the sandpaper grit to become embedded in the hone.
This process will destroy the sandpaper fairly rapidly so have multiple sheets available. This initial lapping will require the most work but you will not need to lap this much ever again.

You have made the right decision to start with a blade not having a visible nick. Those require a lot of work.