Thread: DMT 325 to set a bevel?

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

If you are making customs, I would have to imagine you do some serious honing to form the pre-bevel. I still wouldn't call it bevel setting, though. To me, the bevel is what you create on the 1k or it's equivelant.

TBH I can't remember if he was referring to honing his customs or any old razor - I'll have to try an search for the thread.

I found the thread, and yes apparently it is not only possible but very much shaveable too....

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...und-silly.html

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

Yup, you CAN do it. You could also hone on only a PHIG (you're welcome, Ron :-) ) and get an ebay special shave ready. It's all a question of how long it will take compared to a progressive method. Though I will say that, in my experience, the width of the bevel doesn't really matter with respect to how long it takes to hone a razor. Once the bevel is set on any razor, they all need pretty much the same thing (except the final tweaking, if you play with that).

If you are referring to taking a longer time using just the dmt C and the japanese natural I can't certainly say it takes a shorter amount of time but! it is way simpler. At least in terms of not having to soak a lot of different hones and all that stuff. I also can't do the same using anything else other than the Japanese natural, I can speculate why but I can't be certain about it.

Anyway I was just pointing out that it can be done without any harm, and I would wager money that my edges using this method are as comfortable as any other persons edges. No disrespect to anyone, using more hones or less hones is not a matter of better or worse but satisfying a need some people might not agree and to each his own, I personally like seeing the extent of the capabilities of my Jnat's. I do think however everyone should try it at least once. BTW you do need to tape the spine using this method or else you will have a LOT! of hone wear, which could be a drawback for some people.

I would agree that there is no better or worse in final product and to each his own, so long as you like it and are happy. But, there are some advantages and disadvantages to each system.

I have never found any slurry based system to be as consistent as a non-slurry based system. The clear advantage is you need less hones.

When I hone a lot of razors, I like to do all the razors on the 1k, then all on the 5k, then all on the 8k, etc. This is as fast as picking one up, honing, drying, and putting it back down. If I were using slurry, I'd have to go through the whole slurry process for each razor. But yes, this requires more hones. However, given what I spend on razors and the amount of space all my gear takes up, having a few more hones makes no difference.

It's all about finding what works for you. A synthetic progression works for what I do and how I do it. For others who do different things and do them differently, a different setup may be better suited to the task. My previous post was simply to point out that "can do it" doesn't mean "best way to do it."

Originally Posted by Utopian

I respectfully disagree with this. I've made this jump many times without any difficulty at all. After all, you can remove chips, albeit slowly, with the 1k. Removing the scratch pattern from a 325 grit plate is certainly within the capacity of the 1k.

Those low grit DMT scratches can be pretty stubborn, in my experience. Sometimes they've stuck around even after 600. I'm not saying that they can't be gotten rid of on a 1200, but I'd rather to go to a 600 first, especially if it was a routine I was doing somewhat regularly.

A pretty course scratchy stone for anything but hard core removal of metal in a restoration. I would not say you could set a bevel with one because i have not been successful in not getting a wire edge when using one that course. I have used it to get a blade into shape but then I go to my dmt 600 to smooth out the finish and then what i consider the actual honing begins on the 1k wet.

Look at it this way you did not pay for my inexperienced non professional opinion.

I use a 320 for honing out chips, frowns, etc or setting the bevel on a big wedge where a lot of steel removal is needed. Down side is the depth of the cuts the stone makes in the steel. It takes time to polish them out and you run the risk of working up a wire edge. I will often go 320, then 600, then 1200, then back to 600 for a few light passes to take off any wire edge that has formed from all the honing to remove the deep 320 cuts. Then back to 1200, 4k, 8K 12K etc... There is really no right or wrong, just what works best for you and how much time you want to spend honing the blade.

I would just buy the Norton 220/1000K. Kills two birds with one stone.

I wouldn't use anything coarser than a DMT extra fine (1200) on a razor. I use the Coarse for restoring axes, mower blades, and other tools with thicker profiles. These diamond stones are very aggressive and can really eat steel. Be sure to use the soapy water they recommend.

I agree with Utopian, the 325 to 1k is'nt that much of a jump my norton but having said that I still use an 800Grit with a litle slurry before just cause it cost me half as muck as my 1k and if it wears fast it doesn't matter ^_^