Thread: Dedicated Bevel Setting ....

I guess it doesn't make sense to me. Which Shapton 1k do you have?

I don't have the Chosera 1k, but I've got the 600 and 800 and really like the way they are more aggressive but do not leave deep scratches, making it easy to move up to, and quickly past, a 1k hone.

I have the standard Shapton 1K glass not the pro. I am not getting much cutting action for what I would think a 1K should be. I have watched the progress with a 30X loupe and it is very slow.

R

Originally Posted by riooso

I have the standard Shapton 1K glass not the pro. I am not getting much cutting action for what I would think a 1K should be. I have watched the progress with a 30X loupe and it is very slow.

R

A Shapton Glass Stone and a Shapton Professional are two completely different animals...

The Chosera will work better than the Glass Stone, but at the same time, the Professional will take the Glass Stone outside and teach it a lesson or three.


Here's a suggestion you might try. I've not ever done it with a Glass Stone since I reckon they're a lost cause, but it's a trick that can usually coax increased performance out of any stone. When I bother to give the Glass Stones another going over, I'll give this a try to see what happens myself, I don't expect anything different to what is described below.

Take a diamond plate of any size, a scotchbrite pad, a piece of wet and dry sandpaper, anything that you can scrub the Glass Stone with without leaving anything behind. Not another stone like a nagura please unless you know it's of the same or finer grit than the stone it's being used on.

Scrub the surface of the stone, focusing most of those areas that you don't use when sharpening. Make sure there's at least a film of water on the stone, not standing water. Create a thin slurry on the stone and use that to do the work.

Keep the slurry on the stone, work it around as much as you can and try to maintain consistency by adding only a little water at a time. Water on the blade from a rinse is usually enough to maintain the slurry. If the slurry goes black, good. If the slurry starts to create sticky areas, then work the liquid slurry into those areas to break them up and back off the pressure a little.

You're not aiming for mud like what comes out of a King stone or similar, just an artificially created slurry like watered down milk. It should speed things up without any detrimental side effects and allow you to at least get some use from the Glass Stone, and buying yourself some time to at least try something else (if possible) before you need to replace it.

The abrasive in the Glass Stones is good stuff, the problem is the binder which (I think) holds onto the abrasive for a little longer than what is good for it. Get some of that good abrasive out of the binder and make it do some useful work, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If no good comes of it, hey, it didn't cost you anything but a little time.

Good luck, and do please let us know how it works out if you try it.

Stu.

It's funny how personal preference plays such a big part in our sport. I have used the Shapton on glass 1K to set bevels on around 500 razors and it works well. On the other hand, I am not a fan of the pro series at all. I have used them and they are OK, but I would prefer the glass stones over them. At the end of the day, I continue to use my Chosera 1K because it gives me the results I prefer with less abrasion than some of the more aggressive stones.

I will be trying a couple of new 1K's soon so who knows.........

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Schtoo

A Shapton Glass Stone and a Shapton Professional are two completely different animals...

The Chosera will work better than the Glass Stone, but at the same time, the Professional will take the Glass Stone outside and teach it a lesson or three.


Here's a suggestion you might try. I've not ever done it with a Glass Stone since I reckon they're a lost cause, but it's a trick that can usually coax increased performance out of any stone. When I bother to give the Glass Stones another going over, I'll give this a try to see what happens myself, I don't expect anything different to what is described below.

Take a diamond plate of any size, a scotchbrite pad, a piece of wet and dry sandpaper, anything that you can scrub the Glass Stone with without leaving anything behind. Not another stone like a nagura please unless you know it's of the same or finer grit than the stone it's being used on.

Scrub the surface of the stone, focusing most of those areas that you don't use when sharpening. Make sure there's at least a film of water on the stone, not standing water. Create a thin slurry on the stone and use that to do the work.

Keep the slurry on the stone, work it around as much as you can and try to maintain consistency by adding only a little water at a time. Water on the blade from a rinse is usually enough to maintain the slurry. If the slurry goes black, good. If the slurry starts to create sticky areas, then work the liquid slurry into those areas to break them up and back off the pressure a little.

You're not aiming for mud like what comes out of a King stone or similar, just an artificially created slurry like watered down milk. It should speed things up without any detrimental side effects and allow you to at least get some use from the Glass Stone, and buying yourself some time to at least try something else (if possible) before you need to replace it.

The abrasive in the Glass Stones is good stuff, the problem is the binder which (I think) holds onto the abrasive for a little longer than what is good for it. Get some of that good abrasive out of the binder and make it do some useful work, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If no good comes of it, hey, it didn't cost you anything but a little time.

Good luck, and do please let us know how it works out if you try it.

Stu.

Yeah we have been using that trick on the Nortons, Naniwas, Shapton, Kings even the Chosera but we don't concentrate on the parts we don't use, we pretty much try and keep the hones as flat as possible. Slurry has been used quite a few different ways some to increase cutting power some to impart smoothness... In fact just about every Stone / Hone has been worked using various slurries.... Heck we even had some guys using a Spyderco UF with Diamond and CrOx...

One thing you are going to have to learn with razors is Sharpness is only half the battle, with Razors you are going to drag that sharp blade across your face so Smoothness becomes quite important... Now with a ton of practice the two will come together for you...
There have been many Knife and Tool guys with the same attitude that you have right now, many become quite good at straight razor honing,,, many don't get it...

Thanks for the tricks. I will try all the above.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

One thing you are going to have to learn with razors is Sharpness is only half the battle, with Razors you are going to drag that sharp blade across your face so Smoothness becomes quite important... Now with a ton of practice the two will come together for you...
There have been many Knife and Tool guys with the same attitude that you have right now, many become quite good at straight razor honing,,, many don't get it...

Umm, a question.

What happens if I already happen to know what 'sharp and smooth' actually is?


Just curious.


(I don't know where you got the idea that I don't know what sharp actually is, but I'm always willing to learn, if there is indeed something to learn. At the moment, I'm confident that getting the razor sharp enough is not going to be a problem at all. It's all the other details that worry me...)


Stu.

Originally Posted by Schtoo

Umm, a question.

What happens if I already happen to know what 'sharp and smooth' actually is?

Stu.

Proceed directly to shave test to see if "knowing" matches "doing"

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Proceed directly to shave test to see if "knowing" matches "doing"

Ok, now what?


(Yeah, I got bored last night. Chisels are too narrow and tend to dig in.)


Stu.