Results 31 to 38 of 38
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02-04-2016, 06:47 PM #31
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
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- UK.Exeter.Devon
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- 73
Thanked: 1I think ive got it right,a coticule produces the best shaving edge not the sharpest necessarily.A synthetic stone can produce an extreemly sharp edge,unfortunately often producing an uncomfortable shave due to scratching pattern on the edge,fortunately for us if that blade is subjected to a coticule water only no slurry,one can get the best of both worlds,the coticule will not remove the super sharpness of the synthetic,but will smooth out the scratches,giving the best shave.I believe a coticule is best for bevel use as the slurry, although will take the extreemly sharp edge off a well honed razor, will for bevel use keep
burrs and false edges at bay creating the perfect bevel.Anyhow that is how i understand it.Unfortunatly i have a couple of french razors and a japanese that doesnt do too well due to very hard steel on my coticule
Ive ordere a Sigma 11 select for this, i will give a final finish on the coticule without slurry for the perfect edge.Sorry if the English is not up to much.
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ShaveWares (02-25-2016)
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02-25-2016, 08:24 AM #32
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- Nov 2014
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- 143
Thanked: 7
Take it easy on Gary Haywood, he's a coti expert.
Alot depends on your individual coticule. Rather then going by vein, go by hardness and speed and time. Harder coti's will often take more time, while coarser ones most often take less at setting an edge. I don't bother with that x-stroke and pressure crap. I use have strokes with consistent pressure like I was using an erasure on a pencil marking and go through 3 stages (heavy slurry, BBW or medium slurry and light slurry to water only or even water with dish soap). I get consistent results everytime and I find cotis to be easy and an enjoyment to use compared to the boring synthetics where you have to count strokes and get predictable results.
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02-25-2016, 08:28 AM #33
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- Nov 2014
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- 143
Thanked: 7
You must have had the misfortune of being given 6 or so duds for coti's. My la grosse jaune leaves an edge, second to none, including the J-nats. I'm talking sharp as a shapton and velvety smooth. I personally, would rather use coticule then anything else to be quite honest.
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02-25-2016, 08:38 AM #34
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- Nov 2014
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- 143
Thanked: 7
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02-25-2016, 08:46 AM #35
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- Nov 2014
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Thanked: 7
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Dachsmith (10-28-2018)
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02-25-2016, 08:50 AM #36
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- Nov 2014
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- 143
Thanked: 7
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02-25-2016, 10:34 AM #37
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- NW Indiana
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- 1,060
Thanked: 246Coticules will cut pretty much any steel. Mine cut my HSS (high speed steel) razor with no issues. The problem most people have with them I think is that in going from slurry to water they aren't working back down to the apex. Using slurry slightly convexes the bevel, and for some coticules it takes a LOT of honing to get back to the apex on straight water (if you switch from slurry directly to straight water it will be very obvious that all the work is being done on the bevel on the side away from the apex - it will get very shiny there and remain dull at the apex end).
That is why in many cases I recommend unicot method for folks new to coticules. If you are having trouble getting a good edge with a coticule, put a layer of tape on the spine and do 30 laps on straight water then strop - if that doesn't get you a good shaving edge, something else is wrong - like your bevel isn't fully apexed.
The only exception to that would be if you have a very soft coticule that self-slurries. Those are tougher to get a good finish on. You can try finishing under running water but that may not do it either - last ditch you can polish the surface up to a high level with wet/dry to something like 2k and then try again under running water.Last edited by eKretz; 02-25-2016 at 10:47 AM.
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02-26-2016, 01:55 AM #38
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- Nov 2014
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- 143
Thanked: 7I'm going to experiment with moving from the coti on water to moving to the BBW on soapy water since the BBW has fewer garnets.