View Poll Results: Naniwa or norton
- Voters
- 12. You may not vote on this poll
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naniwa
8 66.67% -
norton
4 33.33%
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Thread: Naniwa or norton
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04-21-2011, 09:30 PM #1
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- Oct 2008
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Thanked: 6Naniwa or norton
I have the choice of buying the 5k/8k/12k naniwa superstone package from SRD or i can buy a Norton 4k/8k combo and a naniwa 12k localy. Both Sets will cost me the same amount and i usually prefer to buy local, but i was thinking it might be better if i get all 3 stones from the same manufacturer. What should i do
Ps the naniwa 12k that i can buy localy is the 2cm thick stone without a base
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04-22-2011, 03:55 AM #2
Both will work equally well. I personally prefer the Nortons but plenty of others like the Naniwas. You really can't go wrong w/ either. SRD carries the Norton combos also--they could just be out. Just email them & ask if they still have any.
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04-22-2011, 04:01 AM #3
It won't matter, so long as you take the time to learn whichever system you decide to get. Personally, I have the Naniwas because I like the feedback they give and I can't afford to have both.
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04-22-2011, 04:51 AM #4
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- Oct 2008
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Thanked: 6Thanks for the advice. I picked up the Norton 4k/8k and the 12k naniwa. I really like the feel of the 12k ss. I am getting alot closer to shaving sharp, but i guess i got to wait for some stubble before i take my razor for a real test.
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04-22-2011, 07:23 AM #5
That was a fast decision! I was in the same shoes as you a while ago, I got the norton 4k/8k too. I will eventually change it out for a nani 3k/8k, I don't like the feeling of the 4k, while the 8k side is super. I wish the 4k would resemble the feel of the 8k, but it doesn't.
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04-22-2011, 11:49 AM #6
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Thanked: 993Larry,
Like holli said, either set is great as long as you take the time to learn your stones. FWIW, I'd put your finisher (12k) in a drawer for a while. Learn to sharpen on the 4k, and really polish out the edges on an 8k. When you can get excellent shaves consistently from an 8k polish, then bring your finisher out of the drawer and start perfecting it.
IME, it's best to control as many variables as you can, and with three stones the variables are significantly increased.
Now, I do apologize if you're already a proficient honer.
Cheers,
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Maxi For This Useful Post:
jeness (04-22-2011), larryforce (04-22-2011)
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04-22-2011, 11:52 AM #7
For the average user, that setup will give a lifetime of fabulous shaves, once you have the technique of using them down.
Congratulations!!Bjoernar
Um, all of them, any of them that have been in front of me over all these years....
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04-22-2011, 11:52 AM #8
I found too that the learning curve is much shortened if you don't use your finisher until you get very good results off a 8k. I really like the edges off my 8k now, but I don't want to use the nani 12k till a bit later, I want to hone maybe another 10-20 razors till I start to finish them on the nani.
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04-22-2011, 04:18 PM #9
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- Jan 2011
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Thanked: 25I use a Naniwa 1200 to set a bevel. Once set I go straight to a Naniwa 5000 then 8000 and polish with a 12000. I then strop with a wool felt strop woth either .5 micron diamond or chromimum oxide and finish with stropping on an english bridle leather strop. I am thinking I may
need to invest in a Naniwa 3000 for use on some razors prior to moving to the 5000
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04-22-2011, 04:42 PM #10
From a beginner level either setup would work well. From an advanced level I find the Norton hones work better on harder steels and the Naniwa hones on softer steels. The same goes for the finisher hone. I have the Norton setup and a Naniwa setup but I do not have a Naniwa over 8k. For finishers I use a coticule, Escher, Escher type or Ck12. Selection of the finisher is determined by the performance and type of previous hones used in the progression.
Selecting the proper hone: I posted this concept a while ago so I'm just posting a short summary here. Grip hardness and binder hardness effect finished edge result. You want the grit to be hard enough to cut (scratch) the metal away and a binder to hold the grit in place while cutting. When the grit wears down to where it is rubbing and not cutting you want the binder to let go of the grit to expose new sharp grits. Too hard and the grit will not break away. Too loose a binder and the grit will break away before it cuts.
Since the OP is asking which hone to purchase I take it they are starting the honing journey and should pay more attention to the technique of honing over the nuances of the hones. To answer you question, either would do well at the beginner level.“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)