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Thread: C15k, PHIG, C12k+, People's Hone of Unknown Grit

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piet View Post
    I left out I meant you should lap the stone with the glass sheet in hand as opposed to the usual way of lapping a stone on a glass sheet with sanding paper on it. You should probably glue a handle to the glass sheet to be able to move it around. The handle could be just a block of wood or an actual door handle.
    THAT IS A MOST EXCELLENT SUGGESTION!!!! Now it seems feasible!

    Many thanks. I think I have some epoxy that should be able to bond wood to the coarse back side of the granite.

  2. #12
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    I just got a call back from a Marble and Granite supplier that's 5 minutes from my job. They are available to cut my paver

    She who must be obeyed is enroute with the stone to pick me up. I don't think I would manage the stone too well on my motorcycle.
    ScottGoodman likes this.

  3. #13
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    Default PHUGging Sweet!








    I just picked them up from:

    General Marble & Granite Co
    Place page
    2118 Lake Avenue
    Richmond, VA 23230
    (804) 353-2761

    They did the cuts free of charge while I waited. Their freshly cut surfaces look like they've been lapped, but that's just the quality of their saws and the expertise of the operator. The first 1/4" of the surface looks almost translucent, like an Arkansas. It feels smooth...

    I went to new Woodcrafters, located here in Richmond VA and was shocked at their DMT pricing. It's almost double what they are online. The 6" plastic DMTs were $99.99. No thanks. I will be doing 80 grit to 400 grit sandpaper on my granite tile. The 16x3x1 inch slabs are much more manageable and shouldn't be an issue to lap now. I'm also starting with a much smoother finish now.

    I may still go and have an inch taken off the end of each slab for a slurry stone.

  4. #14
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    Wow... They did an excellent job, though I do think that slab you had may have been nice if you were polishing a katana's edge. What are you gonna do with your four new hones? I can see using water on one and oil on another to see if there is any difference in effect but that only uses two.

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    Nphocus (05-10-2011)

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    Quote Originally Posted by thehekler View Post
    Wow... They did an excellent job, though I do think that slab you had may have been nice if you were polishing a katana's edge. What are you gonna do with your four new hones? I can see using water on one and oil on another to see if there is any difference in effect but that only uses two.
    I hadn't read anything about honing on these stones with water. I honestly don't have plans for them. Do you have any links to threads on them being used on oil? Are you referring to a specific cutting oil or just sewing oil?

    Tonight, I'll probably start flattening the tops and bottoms of each piece and bevel all of the edges and corners.
    Last edited by zib; 05-15-2011 at 07:14 PM.

  7. #16
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nphocus View Post
    I honestly don't have plans for them. Do you have any links to threads on them being used on oil? Are you referring to a specific cutting oil or just sewing oil?
    If you do plan on using oil it will cause it to act like a higher grit stone. I use oil (sewing machine oil from Hobby Lobby & Kroil that I had to mail order) on my Charnely Forrest. Basically, if the stone is finishing around 12K the oil could make it seem like it's a 20K+. What the oil does is literally hydroplane/lubricate the blade thus causing the blade to glide more over the stone & reducing the abrasiveness. If the stone is a slow stone, it will make it a slower stone.

    Those stones are real cool! Since you cut them down & if you plan on keeping them at 16", you might consider adding some sort of backing of something like a hardwood. I'd hate to see you get that big ole' thing lapped right and then it break on you. I love stones in the 10-12" range, so I can't imagine a 16" one!

    Best of luck!
    niftyshaving and Nphocus like this.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter74743 View Post
    If you do plan on using oil it will cause it to act like a higher grit stone. I use oil (sewing machine oil from Hobby Lobby & Kroil that I had to mail order) on my Charnely Forrest. Basically, if the stone is finishing around 12K the oil could make it seem like it's a 20K+. What the oil does is literally hydroplane/lubricate the blade thus causing the blade to glide more over the stone & reducing the abrasiveness. If the stone is a slow stone, it will make it a slower stone.

    Those stones are real cool! Since you cut them down & if you plan on keeping them at 16", you might consider adding some sort of backing of something like a hardwood. I'd hate to see you get that big ole' thing lapped right and then it break on you. I love stones in the 10-12" range, so I can't imagine a 16" one!

    Best of luck!
    When starting with oil, do you still build a slurry? Is there a progression like the dilucote method where you dilute the slurry/swarf?

    Thank you.

  10. #18
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I finish my razors to 12K if I am using Nani's or 16K if I'm using the Shapton GS's and then use only oil on the stone...no slurry at all. If you are planning on a slurry I would recommend water. I played around with slurry's for a while, but have backed off. It would be fine for a "one stone" honing, but otherwise I really don't use it any more.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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  12. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nphocus View Post







    I just picked them up from:

    General Marble & Granite Co
    Place page
    2118 Lake Avenue
    Richmond, VA 23230
    (804) 353-2761

    They did the cuts free of charge while I waited. Their freshly cut surfaces look like they've been lapped, but that's just the quality of their saws and the expertise of the operator. The first 1/4" of the surface looks almost translucent, like an Arkansas. It feels smooth...

    I went to new Woodcrafters, located here in Richmond VA and was shocked at their DMT pricing. It's almost double what they are online. The 6" plastic DMTs were $99.99. No thanks. I will be doing 80 grit to 400 grit sandpaper on my granite tile. The 16x3x1 inch slabs are much more manageable and shouldn't be an issue to lap now. I'm also starting with a much smoother finish now.

    I may still go and have an inch taken off the end of each slab for a slurry stone.
    Glad it worked out for you-I thought you would not have a problem with this method

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  14. #20
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    Default Lapped and lightly beveled - 30 minutes work

    More pics here:
    https://picasaweb.google.com/nphocus/HAD#

    Briefly

    The saw blade left a very flat finished surface. I'm very impressed by the work. The pencil grid took minimal time and effort to remove. I basically went thru the motions because this is what I do with all of my hones. Mind you, I am a NOOB. I am not even remotely a honemeister. That was an undershirt for work, oh well. The background is the sink where the other 3 stones were soaking. Note the grey water from the stones slurry. I only did one stone.


    This is freshly sawn, no sanding. Note, the tshirt is still clean...


    Light milk from 60 grit.

    Iron Flower... as they seem to like to show on all of the jnats... The first razor on this hone will be my chinese Gold Dollar. I promised pinklather that he would get a GD from me with my edge on it. He doesn't seem to have a high opinion of GDs or Chinese steel in general.

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