Results 1 to 10 of 31
Like Tree11Likes

Thread: What is the highest grit you have used on a stone?

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Woo hoo! StraightRazorDave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,257
    Thanked: 309

    Default

    Lapping a coticule past something in the area of 600 grit is really pointless. The coticule's surface is constantly releasing particles into the slurry, essentially refreshing the surface constantly thus smoothing it. In other words, a coticule lapped with 600 grit will feel just as smooth as another comparable coticule lapped to something over 1200 grit.

    As a note, you really shouldn't use the DMT 1200 to lap, it can be damaging to the higher grit diamond hones if I recall correctly.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to StraightRazorDave For This Useful Post:

    Grump (08-19-2011)

  3. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,157
    Thanked: 853

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StraightRazorDave View Post
    Lapping a coticule past something in the area of 600 grit is really pointless. The coticule's surface is constantly releasing particles into the slurry, essentially refreshing the surface constantly thus smoothing it. In other words, a coticule lapped with 600 grit will feel just as smooth as another comparable coticule lapped to something over 1200 grit.

    As a note, you really shouldn't use the DMT 1200 to lap, it can be damaging to the higher grit diamond hones if I recall correctly.
    +1

    I might note/ add that the initial slurry will finish the
    process as the early hone strokes with a razor
    worry the slurry and the hone surface to finer bits.

    After this the dilution process will further remove the
    aggressive slurry and leave the hone "just right".

    Folk that tape might also consider that the
    steel of the spine is part of this process. The
    a'retentative folk might use that old razor with
    a lot of hone wear for a half dozen strokes to
    condition the hone surface. The old razor may become
    your fav' shaver in the process. To one degree
    or another this initial slurry interaction takes
    place on any hone and with many a nagura/ rubbing
    stone.

    In my opinion, circles and Japanese strokes that
    we see in video by the better hone masters when a razor
    first touches the next hone optimize this process

    Over time a DMT will calm down and this is less
    an issue. You want a DMT that is coarse enough
    to be durable and aggressive enough to remove
    that half a sheet of paper bit of hone that is
    needed to keep the hone flat enough over time.
    The slurry is a key byproduct...
    Last edited by niftyshaving; 08-19-2011 at 07:21 PM.
    Geezer likes this.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to niftyshaving For This Useful Post:

    Grump (08-20-2011)

  5. #3
    Does the barber shave himself...? PA23-250's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    834
    Thanked: 115

    Default

    When I get my Shoubudani, I'd definitely going to use another natural (probably a coticule) followed by a tomonagura to get it as smooth as possible, but for synthetics or even coticules, I've found no benefit to going beyond my well worn DMT 325. The real Jnat experts on here have explained why you want smoother on level 5 stones, but yeah, for most other stones, probably more would be overkill.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to PA23-250 For This Useful Post:

    Grump (08-20-2011)

  7. #4
    Senior Member Grump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    285
    Thanked: 449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    I used to go to 1k, but when I bought the Shapton DGLP (325 Grit) and a Shapton 30k, I said "Huh 325 is recommended for a 30k stone" and that was it from then on... Now I use a DMT 525, that would also be known as a well worn DMT 325 or the Shapton DGLP that's it....
    I think I am around DMT 425

    Quote Originally Posted by niftyshaving View Post
    +1

    I might note/ add that the initial slurry will finish the
    process as the early hone strokes with a razor
    worry the slurry and the hone surface to finer bits.

    After this the dilution process will further remove the
    aggressive slurry and leave the hone "just right".

    Folk that tape might also consider that the
    steel of the spine is part of this process. The
    a'retentative folk might use that old razor with
    a lot of hone wear for a half dozen strokes to
    condition the hone surface. The old razor may become
    your fav' shaver in the process. To one degree
    or another this initial slurry interaction takes
    place on any hone and with many a nagura/ rubbing
    stone.

    In my opinion, circles and Japanese strokes that
    we see in video by the better hone masters when a razor
    first touches the next hone optimize this process

    Over time a DMT will calm down and this is less
    an issue. You want a DMT that is coarse enough
    to be durable and aggressive enough to remove
    that half a sheet of paper bit of hone that is
    needed to keep the hone flat enough over time.
    The slurry is a key byproduct...
    I just finished this as seen in this thread( Chinese 12k dressing stone) and it works quit well. I believe it just may take away that first razor smoothing effect or take the place of. It definitely smooths out the roughness left from the DMT.
    Last edited by Grump; 08-20-2011 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Forgot to post the link

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •